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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!


henzy190

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I'm really not sure where it's from. I got it from a friend who used it on his motorcycle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was considering getting a thin sheet of lexan and bolting / sticking it on but is it worth it. Every so often I can get a new plate cheap ;)

Oh and congratulations to Sully :)

Edited by dazp1976
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I was considering getting a thin sheet of lexan and bolting / sticking it on but is it worth it. Every so often I can get a new plate cheap ;)

Oh and congratulations to Sully :)

I thought of doing the same but as you said Its Prob not worth the trouble.

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Yea I probably was being a bit optimistic, so I went down on my own before they come out later. Now back and looking over my truggy ive realised how scratched (very deep) the underside of the chassis is, so been thinking of putting some sort of sticky plastic decals on. Can anyone recommend anything along those sort of lines.

yeah mate use carbon fibrf sheet to cover entire bottom of car....stic on and cut to shape...like mine

only cost

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I haven't used my truggy for atleast a year because the engine had a lot of problems, thinking of converting to electric now.

Could anyone give me some sort of estimate for a full setup? Not super cheap but not expensive either, need everything inc charger ect.

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I haven't used my truggy for atleast a year because the engine had a lot of problems, thinking of converting to electric now.

Could anyone give me some sort of estimate for a full setup? Not super cheap but not expensive either, need everything inc charger ect.

A few squid!! :D

ESC-motor for 5-6s

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330995068416?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HOBBYWING-QuicRun-WP-8BL150-Brushless-Sensorless-Speed-Controllers-150A-ESC-/231169458771?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35d2c60253

Esc-motor for 4-5s

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HOBBYWING-QuicRun-WP-8BL150-Brushless-Sensorless-Speed-Controllers-150A-ESC-/231169458771?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35d2c60253

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Free-Ship-LEOPARD-4082-2000KV-4-Poles-Brushless-Motor-RC-1-5-Car-Boat-/231003099021?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35c8db8f8d

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ePacket-USA-LEOPARD-4074-2000KV-4-Poles-Brushless-Motor-Car-Boat-/230962104684?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35c66a096c

The white sticky pads they sell for servos hold the esc perfectly so you should only need to get a battery box and motor mount.

Charger: I wouldn't bother with the 50 watt- 80 watt 5amp jobs because you'll be waiting an age and will end up running 2 or 3 in the end and will end up costing the same as the one I've linked. (I made the same mistake). If your going to do it do it right first time then it gives you options of charging several batteries at once in the time it would normally take to charge 1:

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__26013__TURNIGY_MEGA_400W_V2_Lithium_Polymer_Battery_Charger_Version_2_UK_Warehouse_.html

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__36964__HobbyKing_540w_220_240v_Power_Supply_with_UK_plug_13_8v_18v_30amp_UK_Warehouse_.html

Get your batteries from hobbyking as well. Around 725 grams is your weight limit I reckon.

You will need to have upgraded to the hard gears due to the silly amount of off the line power of brushless.

You could buy a Flux but the system is underpowered for off roading - diffs need upgrading - servo isn't great and in the bundles the charger is only 50 watts and

Edited by dazp1976
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There goes another steering arm stripped. FOR F SKE!!!!..... I'm putting it down to these HPI Phaltlines. There's hardly any kind of foam inserts in them things being so low profile. Very hard on the bumps / potholes and things. :(

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I thought you had green bling ones on? Im running stock ones and touch wood only had one strip out on me upto now. I've not had mine out for a few days now I bet it's feeling neglected haha at least it's all nice and clean ready for some decent weather and spare time...

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I haven't used my truggy for atleast a year because the engine had a lot of problems, thinking of converting to electric now.

Could anyone give me some sort of estimate for a full setup? Not super cheap but not expensive either, need everything inc charger ect.

I'm sure it would work out cheeper to buy a flux off here or fleabay? I paid 150 for mine ages ago with 2 lipos and 2 chargers and a few spare bits. It led a hard life before I got it (ive seen the videos on my mates facebook) and he didn't have much mechanical sympathy either. But a full stripdown and rebuild was all good fun and a good learning curve. You could always keep your nitro one for a good selection of spares as most people end up buying a roller for bits anyway as it works out more cost effective

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I thought you had green bling ones on? Im running stock ones and touch wood only had one strip out on me upto now. I've not had mine out for a few days now I bet it's feeling neglected haha at least it's all nice and clean ready for some decent weather and spare time...

Not completely done yet. Got the suspension holders and rear hubs on her but haven't sorted the front end yet, still stock at the mo. Grrr. Looking into doing something completely different if it works ;)

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I'm sure it would work out cheeper to buy a flux off here or fleabay? I paid 150 for mine ages ago with 2 lipos and 2 chargers and a few spare bits. It led a hard life before I got it (ive seen the videos on my mates facebook) and he didn't have much mechanical sympathy either. But a full stripdown and rebuild was all good fun and a good learning curve. You could always keep your nitro one for a good selection of spares as most people end up buying a roller for bits anyway as it works out more cost effective

Exactly what I did minus the charger and batts. I sold the stock combo and got something better for it.

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Had an ls and the gt out, one things for sure, i need to learn how to tune the engines so they don't cut out every min lol, really puts a dampers on the session

 

still managed to get the gt black (well gravel orangey brown) and the ls......... got 1 little jump, stalled on the run up then failed to re start till home time

 

The joys

 

 

 

 

Allan

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I'm still on the stock motor as far as I know, when I first got it I had a 5 min blast then stripped it down as I saw a couple of bits needed doing. Mainly that the 4 screws that hold the lid on the can (might be correct terminology) had come loose by about 5mm and pushed up on the motor mount and pulling the pinion to to it shaving bits off. I think I saved that car/motor from certain destruction :-D I let him have a go last week and he couldn't believe how much better it was after a bit of Propper maintenance and diff oil all round. I'm in the process of doing all the bearings on the wr8 and I think my trophy could do with a new set as a next purchase too :-D

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Hello again...

Little support here guys...

so I went bash last weekend and the air filter got lost...didn't notice it was missing...and who knows for how long I bash with out it...I start noticing a little bit more smoke than usual...and suddenly it die...check the temp on it and it was up to 310f...ouch...

I try to restarted with no luck...after few attempts I got it to start...but it was dying right after...and that's when I notice the air filter missing...

So last Friday I tear the engine out...and it looks like the crankshaft have scratches...the piston and sleeve looks ok...

I clean it all out an put it all back together...and I got a new air filter...

So I try it yesterday but it keeps dying on me...

Does this mean I need to rebuild the hole engine???

Thanks in advance...

Edited by TT83
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Maybe someone can help me out. I tried installing a 3 piece clutch and I noticed that the pins on the fkywheel hit the clutch bell. So I shimmed it which fixed that but then I noticed the clutch shoes aren't fully inside the clutch bell anymore. Should I shim the shoes?

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Maybe someone can help me out. I tried installing a 3 piece clutch and I noticed that the pins on the fkywheel hit the clutch bell. So I shimmed it which fixed that but then I noticed the clutch shoes aren't fully inside the clutch bell anymore. Should I shim the shoes?

You could always use a dremel tool to take a fraction off the end of the pins to come level with the end of the shoes. I can't see it doing any harm at all as you would stick with that setup and never go back to stock. It's the way I'd go about it because the more shims you stick in it the more chance things may come loose with vibrations.

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You could always use a dremel tool to take a fraction off the end of the pins to come level with the end of the shoes. I can't see it doing any harm at all as you would stick with that setup and never go back to stock. It's the way I'd go about it because the more shims you stick in it the more chance things may come loose with vibrations.

Thanks good ideA... There's a lot of pin sticking out so I'll deff shave some off

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It's been quiet on here for a while thought I'd bump us back up the page again, went out for a bash the other day and everything seemed ok, left it for the mud to dry out a day or so and give it a full stripdown and clean. I noticed whilst I was checking things over that I had a bit if metal dust on top of the mud. Strangly I put a new pinion on it over 6 months ago and this had come loose and moved up and down the shaft but hadn't removed itself. No idea why it chose now to loosen off but hey ho an easy fix.

I was just flicking through fleabay and one of yours came up first dazp and it reminded me I could do with a complete bearing kit. (recently just done the wr8 with rubber sealed ones for the Hpi bullet (18 peice kit) as not one listed for the wr8. My question is does anyone have a link for one for the trophy buggy flux as I can't find a kit...

Tia guys

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Ok scrap that, I've just found a full set on eBay from rcbearings eBay number 371284610904. That's the same place as the wr8 set, and they were a good buy. Strange that I've looked and looked with no joy, then ask the question and find some in the same breath...

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What is a good servo because mines turning like a bus haha. I've got the truggy flux, thanks

I've seen a few people rating Savox servos like the 1256. I'm using a HPI SF-50 at the minute which I got cheap and is fine for my use and still going after 6 months.. It doesn't turn the wheels well when just sitting idle on the ground tho so I think the 12kg torque number is over confident on their part. The Savox will be my next choice if/when mine dies.

Edited by dazp1976
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I've seen a few people rating Savox servos like the 1256. I'm using a HPI SF-50 at the minute which I got cheap and is fine for my use and still going after 6 months.. It doesn't turn the wheels well when just sitting idle on the ground tho so I think the 12kg torque number is over confident on their part. The Savox will be my next choice if/when mine dies.

Also It's worth checking that your servo saver isn't too loose and if you drive it like you stole it  :sly: you will experience a lot of rear push when turning a corner regardless of servo type.

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