HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[stevo2551]

I use x2 ib6 chargers so not the best, but the overlander batteries arnt too shabby. I'll persist with the duff one for now and keep trying to balance it. I have noticed that if I swap the batts over when one says full, it carries on charging on the other? Cheep uncalabrated charger maybe? It usually stops on it's own in balance mode when one says 4.20 and other 4.05 ish

[dazp1976]

I use x2 ib6 chargers so not the best, but the overlander batteries arnt too shabby. I'll persist with the duff one for now and keep trying to balance it. I have noticed that if I swap the batts over when one says full, it carries on charging on the other? Cheep uncalabrated charger maybe? It usually stops on it's own in balance mode when one says 4.20 and other 4.05 ish

I did arc one of my Traxxas batts a while back while re-soldering the balance leads inside and that wouldn't come up either on 1 cell afterwards. I discharged it all the way down to 3.2, 3.2, 3.03 (3s) on the charger (took forever) and when I charged it back up all cells came up and hit 4.18. If you're thinking of replacing it anyway then It might be worth doing because I doubt the charger will get it balanced when it's that far out as mine does the same stopping full early like that (turnigy mega 400watt 20a). Wouldn't hurt to try it.

Edited January 27, 2015 by dazp1976

[stevo2551]

Cheers bud I'll give that a go this morning, I've never used the discharge function on my charger bit have seen that it's set at 0.1a is this correct or can it be done at 5a same as a charge being at 1c?

[dazp1976]

Cheers bud I'll give that a go this morning, I've never used the discharge function on my charger bit have seen that it's set at 0.1a is this correct or can it be done at 5a same as a charge being at 1c?

Charger discharging is VERY slow I'm afraid. Mine does a maximum of 25w 1a and takes forever. You can gently run it down a bit in the car first to get the bad cell to around 3.2v NO BURST RUNS and best do it on hard surface ie not grass. That will cut the time on the charger. Maybe discharge so bad cell is 3.1v to start with, then set it to balance charge to storage and let it finish, then balance to full. Hopefully 2 balances like that may get then close. It will take time but is worth trying because unless you get the cells within 0.05 ish it will never balance right.

[stevo2551]

Cheers for the speedy replys, it's persisting it down here no no chance of discharging in the car today, I've set it going on the discharge cycle and one cell is 0.10 out of balance so hopefully I'll stick with your suggestions daz and see how we get on :-)

Been on discharge for 1 hour and it reads 3.65 and 3.07 is this likely to be a Happy ending? Lol

Edited January 28, 2015 by stevo2551

[dazp1976]

Cheers for the speedy replys, it's persisting it down here no no chance of discharging in the car today, I've set it going on the discharge cycle and one cell is 0.10 out of balance so hopefully I'll stick with your suggestions daz and see how we get on :-)

Been on discharge for 1 hour and it reads 3.65 and 3.07 is this likely to be a Happy ending? Lol

Don't go below 3.0 obviously.

[stevo2551]

Ok now I'm confused, I pressed stop when one got to 2.98, put it on my multimeter and it reads 3.30?

[dazp1976]

Ok now I'm confused, I pressed stop when one got to 2.98, put it on my multimeter and it reads 3.30

Yeah the cheap chargers do things like that this is why you have to keep an eye on things If you're at something like 3.50 - 3.30 then do a storage charge now and leave it to run and tell us the readings after. Might not have gone low enough but see how it goes.

[stevo2551]

Just put it on a storage charge and it bleeped straight away at full storage. So I'll balance charge it whilst I'm in the kitchen now see how it goes and maybe try another cycle on the charger and then tomorrow, charge and use, see what reading I get after a final balance, and when it stops in the car.

[Shiesty2000]

What's up guys sorry I'm being a pain in the ass lol. Does anyone know if the buggy shocks will fit on the truggy? If so the buggy has an option for a big bore shock 101115 and 101116. I know the buggy shock part numbers are different then the truggy so they are obv different but I'm not sure how different

[dazp1976]

Stock shocks on the Truggy are 122mm 101116 are 112mm. 10mm too short. I put mine on the outer hole with a long 42mm bolt through the standoff+tower+body mount with 76mm74GF red springs still too much lay down angle on shocks = soft as s**t (this is on a 5kg total weight Truggy Flux). I've also tried most Kyosho springs on there too. Felt awful even with 50wt in, the more the lay down angle / the softer they are, the more upright angle | the harder and the hardest spring for the 112 are 84mm6.16rate blue from Kyosho.. I now have a D8T tower on the rear and stock at the front for now until I figure out the Front end but the trophy body now don't fit. I've had a lot of trial and error hassle so far. See what kind of a deal Deafty can do you on LST ones as I think he had more luck than me.

Edited January 30, 2015 by dazp1976

[Shiesty2000]

Damn this kinda sux... Weird that tower hobbies shows 101116 as an optional part for the truggy flux

[Shiesty2000]

Has anyone changed the diff screws that hold it to the chassis to a hex screw? I notice all the Phillips head screws are coarse Thread and the hex is fine thread and I don't know if it's ok to change them to hex

[dazp1976]

Has anyone changed the diff screws that hold it to the chassis to a hex screw? I notice all the Phillips head screws are coarse Thread and the hex is fine thread and I don't know if it's ok to change them to hex

Yes. That is fine. The vorza uses 3.5mm fine thread hex type. Look at the instruction manual for it on hpi website it uses that size in a few places. I used 4mm in the end (tight fit) for there because some of my case holes weren't great and they are still holding.

[Deafty]

Stock shocks on the Truggy are 122mm 101116 are 112mm. 10mm too short. I put mine on the outer hole with a long 42mm bolt through the standoff+tower+body mount with 76mm74GF red springs still too much lay down angle on shocks = soft as s**t (this is on a 5kg total weight Truggy Flux). I've also tried most Kyosho springs on there too. Felt awful even with 50wt in, the more the lay down angle / the softer they are, the more upright angle | the harder and the hardest spring for the 112 are 84mm6.16rate blue from Kyosho.. I now have a D8T tower on the rear and stock at the front for now until I figure out the Front end but the trophy body now don't fit. I've had a lot of trial and error hassle so far. See what kind of a deal Deafty can do you on LST ones as I think he had more luck than me.

I used 1:5 springs with positive results   16mm BB's

[Deafty]

Has anyone changed the diff screws that hold it to the chassis to a hex screw? I notice all the Phillips head screws are coarse Thread and the hex is fine thread and I don't know if it's ok to change them to hex

yup replaced the lot.

Mainly m3's with m4's where needed.  sway bar-->bulkhead is m2 or 2.5  .

 

order of screw strengths

1.  12.9 steel
2.  10.9 steel
3.  A2 stainless  (cheapest but still better than hpi cheese heads

[dazp1976]

 

yup replaced the lot.

Mainly m3's with m4's where needed.  sway bar-->bulkhead is m2 or 2.5  .

 

order of screw strengths

1.  12.9 steel
2.  10.9 steel
3.  A2 stainless  (cheapest but still better than hpi cheese heads

 

Yup. Only thing is the original screw threads open the diff case holes borderline for M3 use I have had suspension holders/braces come undone until I did all these now it's solid.. Advise using steel m4X15mm chassis-->diff cases(bulkheads).  Using m3.5x42mm steel for bumper-->plastic suspension holders-->bulkhead 94677. Using m3.5x18mm steel for top of diff cases holding them together 94676. Using m3.5x14mm steel for metal suspension holders-->bulkheads 94675. Using m4 steel chassis-->motor mount. The rest isn't as vital i.e m3-m2.5 stainless. I bought a screw kit from a dismantled Vorza.

Edited January 31, 2015 by dazp1976

[Shiesty2000]

What's your opinion on ordering a complete screw kit from hexcrews? I tried emailing tonyscrews for a kit 2 times and no response.

[Shiesty2000]

By the way. Thank you everyone for all your help I really appreciate it

[Deafty]

What's your opinion on ordering a complete screw kit from hexcrews? I tried emailing tonyscrews for a kit 2 times and no response.

IMo watse of money,. you can source the screws individually from the likes of ebay etc,.  up to you but I spent 30 euro and got a 100 pces of every screw size from an online shop.  Pointless linking as postage will kill you cos of the weight

 

A great mod albeit delicate work, is to fir m4 on the bottom metal suspension plates-->bulkhead.  You need to trim the lip inside the bulkhead so that the screw fits and still allows the bulkhead to fit together properly.  I was constantly bending these screws before.

Bottom screws on pic.  Otherwise m3 hex heads (machine thread) will fit problem free on all stated 3.5mm hpi screws

 

Edited February 1, 2015 by Deafty

[dazp1976]

IMo watse of money,. you can source the screws individually from the likes of ebay etc,.  up to you but I spent 30 euro and got a 100 pces of every screw size from an online shop.  Pointless linking as postage will kill you cos of the weight

 

A great mod albeit delicate work, is to fir m4 on the bottom metal suspension plates-->bulkhead.  You need to trim the lip inside the bulkhead so that the screw fits and still allows the bulkhead to fit together properly.  I was constantly bending these screws before.

Bottom screws on pic.  Otherwise m3 hex heads (machine thread) will fit problem free on all stated 3.5mm hpi screws

 

Agreed. These and the ones underneath were the ones I was talking about too. I'm using alloy plates and didn't want to bore them a bit for M4 but the Vorza ones I mentioned earlier are a lot stronger than stock screws on trophy. Stainless is no good in these areas.

[Shiesty2000]

Ok so I went to socket depot.com to order screws and I noticed they don't have the exact length for instance the metal suspension plate --> bulkhead are 41mm they only have either 40mm or 45mm and I noticed this about a lot of the screws needed. Do I go a little shorter or longer?

[dazp1976]

Ok so I went to socket depot.com to order screws and I noticed they don't have the exact length for instance the metal suspension plate --> bulkhead are 41mm they only have either 40mm or 45mm and I noticed this about a lot of the screws needed. Do I go a little shorter or longer?

40mm should l be fine. Myself I'd get the 45mm and cut it down slightly. Usually instead of buying loads of different sizes I get a few of the long ones and a bulk load of 1 other size ie 25mm or whichever the longest is of the rest of the screws used on the vehicle. I then cut them down with the dremel as needed. Sometimes this can work out more cost effective.

[Deafty]

I used 40mm m4's with no problem.  What you need to be aware of though is after about 20-25mm long most 'simple' suppliers will only have half threaded screws,  which are useless for the likes of upper shock mounting.

 

If they are longer you can always cut em to length.  If you do cut,  screw on a nut to the section you will be keeping before hand, this way you can use the nut to recut any rough thread left behind.  A small file helps too

[Shiesty2000]

I used 40mm m4's with no problem. What you need to be aware of though is after about 20-25mm long most 'simple' suppliers will only have half threaded screws, which are useless for the likes of upper shock mounting.

If they are longer you can always cut em to length. If you do cut, screw on a nut to the section you will be keeping before hand, this way you can use the nut to recut any rough thread left behind. A small file helps too

Yes I'm having a difficult time finding fully threaded m4x40 for the bulk head. I ordered screws up to 25mm fully threaded from boltdepot but they don't have larger sizes fully threaded