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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!


henzy190

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Can anyone help I have rebuilt my diffs front and centre are good, its the rear, it doesnt spin nicely feels very stiff and also feels like its locked it has 5000wt fastrax the link here http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-cml-racing-pure-silicone-diff-oil-5-000-wt-/rc-car-products/28539

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So Rusty's saying 7k cps 5k cps and 3k cps

Dafty's saying 75k cps 50k cps 30k cps

Rusty says his handles great, Deafty says his handles rubbish.....

But then on the other hand someone mentioned running 100k wt 50k wt 30k wt (50k wt = 2 291 130 cps)

So now you can see the dilemma.....

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This might sound like a pain to do but if you could post some pics of the internal gears then it would be easier to tell you what's up, even if you get a video up of what it's doing help will be here. Have you checked that there is nothing in the drive shafts that could be blocking it?

Those are very high viscocity oils your using there deafty, you tried any others?

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Has anyone replaced the ESC? Im wondering if upgrading to a 120a esc will make much of a difference.

The Hobbywing ezrun WP SC8 looks good for the price. What else would need to be changed to make the car waterproof?

I am using HobbyWing Xerun 150A + 4274SD Combo. It's very good! The first time i ride on 6S :))) It's wonderfull, but car is very unstable! And all 3 differencials were killed :( now, i ride on 4S.

For good waterproof you must remove cooler from ESC, and then you should change cooling radiator & make a coat to electricity. I used a window sealer for coat ESC.

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I am using HobbyWing Xerun 150A + 4274SD Combo. It's very good! The first time i ride on 6S :))) It's wonderfull, but car is very unstable! And all 3 differencials were killed :( now, i ride on 4S.

For good waterproof you must remove cooler from ESC, and then you should change cooling radiator & make a coat to electricity. I used a window sealer for coat ESC.

I haven't run 6s on mine, just 5s, but I did install the hardened diff gears and running 7k 10k 5k diff oils.

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So Rusty's saying 7k cps 5k cps and 3k cps

Deafty's saying 75k cps 50k cps 30k cps

Rusty says his handles great, Deafty says his handles rubbish.....

But then on the other hand someone mentioned running 100k wt 50k wt 30k wt (50k wt = 2 291 130 cps)

So now you can see the dilemma.....

I never said it handles rubbish,.,.I am however running on race tracks where control is parramount and If u take into account I'm running near slicks for tyres I think you'll be suitably impressed. 4 wheel drift cornering is not "drift racing" and involves minimal counter steer.

I would however be extremely interested in dropping the weights to Rusty's setting for comparison. But I am worried about stripping gears with such thin oils.

I can't say what is right or wrong,.but I feel that as ansmann have a range of oils from: 3000cps (thinest) to 100,000cps (thickest) So to me running a truggy 1:8 scale model with some of their thicker oils makes more sense. Though I also feel that thinner oil overall should increase performance at the expense of wear.

I think MyDoddy posted the above 100k wt's etc.

Edited by Deafty
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Did the Xerun fit easily into the space of the stock esc?

I dont know about it, because i have a conversion from Trophy 4.6, and i don't used stock ESC-place. But, i can measure it, if you need.

So to waterproof it you remove the cooling fan and then spray sealer on it, then replace the fan?

No. I removed cooler, then detach aluminium radiator from ESC. Then, i make coat for all electric board exlude FETs. Coat - is a acrylic varnish. Then i prepare new big aluminium radiator & glue it on FETs like a stock radiator with thermo-glue. And then, i spray sealer on open electric board of ESC & close other holes with it.

A... do you understand me?

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Did the Xerun fit easily into the space of the stock esc?

So to waterproof it you remove the cooling fan and then spray sealer on it, then replace the fan?

No- had to do some modding by slicing off one side of the ESC tray with a dremel as the xerun is 3mm longer than the flux blur esc. Also means you lose the strap thing frmo th eesc tray and have to resort to sticky tape and cable ties to hold the ESC in the tray.

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I dont know about it, because i have a conversion from Trophy 4.6, and i don't used stock ESC-place. But, i can measure it, if you need.

No. I removed cooler, then detach aluminium radiator from ESC. Then, i make coat for all electric board exlude FETs. Coat - is a acrylic varnish. Then i prepare new big aluminium radiator & glue it on FETs like a stock radiator with thermo-glue. And then, i spray sealer on open electric board of ESC & close other holes with it.

A... do you understand me?

Got it, thank you.

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An oil with a cps of 100k you will pretty much lock your diff up. I think the set up that deafty is running may be on the edge of locking the front diff. The weights that I am running give me a feeling that I am in control and suit me perfect for my driving style. You should try the weights I'm using I've had no problem with my diffs "cooking"

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An oil with a cps of 100k you will pretty much lock your diff up. I think the set up that deafty is running may be on the edge of locking the front diff. The weights that I am running give me a feeling that I am in control and suit me perfect for my driving style. You should try the weights I'm using I've had no problem with my diffs "cooking"

I'll give em a go for sure,.

My front diff isn't "near locking" though. And those specs for my oils came from this thread,.(though i naturally can't find it lol)

Oh ,. and who's the resident engine rebuilder expert/most experienced,.?

Edited by Deafty
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I never said it handles rubbish,.,.I am however running on race tracks where control is parramount and If u take into account I'm running near slicks for tyres I think you'll be suitably impressed. 4 wheel drift cornering is not "drift racing" and involves minimal counter steer.

I would however be extremely interested in dropping the weights to Rusty's setting for comparison. But I am worried about stripping gears with such thin oils.

I can't say what is right or wrong,.but I feel that as ansmann have a range of oils from: 3000cps (thinest) to 100,000cps (thickest) So to me running a truggy 1:8 scale model with some of their thicker oils makes more sense. Though I also feel that thinner oil overall should increase performance at the expense of wear.

I think MyDoddy posted the above 100k wt's etc.

The set up i run in my truggy is

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-cml-racing-pure-silicone-diff-oil-60-000-wt-/rc-car-products/30884 in the front diff

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-cml-racing-pure-silicone-diff-oil-100-000-wt-/rc-car-products/37512 in the centre diff

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-cml-racing-pure-silicone-diff-oil-30-000-wt-/rc-car-products/367382 in the rear diff

Runs great for me at general bashing around and gives the gears a nice protection level the centre thickness works great for mid air adjustment i find

The set up in my buggy is

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-cml-racing-pure-silicone-diff-oil-7-000-wt-/rc-car-products/28540 in the front and the centre

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-cml-racing-pure-silicone-diff-oil-5-000-wt-/rc-car-products/28539 in the rear

These work great for what i need general bashing around good protection

You'll notice that the truggy although is the same esc and the same motor runs thicker oils because its wider longer and a tad heavier ..This is my set up and it works for me on where i bash and how i drive .. This does not mean its right for everyone or is the best setup .. As i have said before we all drive different and have slightly different needs so no one's set up will work like your own ..

I also have a few other wts of diff oils that i sometimes swap to but these are my main ones

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Got it, thank you.

Dan there is a ton of ways to waterproof your esc and rx's along with your servos just check out you tube

My fav is CorrosionX and plasti dip and balloons for the rx but everyone has there own corrosion X is by far the easiest and less messy of them all

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MYDoddy,.wrote

The set up i run in my truggy is...

Interesting,.as your oils are: Fastrax @

  • 60,000 wt front = ~ ??cps
  • 100,000 wt mid = ~ ??cps
  • 30,000 wt rear. = ~ ??cps

Rob12

gosh you run lot thicker than i do !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rusty

An oil with a cps of 100k you will pretty much lock your diff up. I think the set up that deafty is running may be on the edge of locking the front diff. The weights that I am running give me a feeling that I am in control and suit me perfect for my driving style. You should try the weights I'm using I've had no problem with my diffs "cooking"

Deafty

'll give em a go for sure,.

My front diff isn't "near locking" though. And those specs for my oils came from this thread,.(though i naturally can't find it lol)

If mine are aparrently on the verge of locking up then these must be welded together,.which we know is not the case.

Short of buying more oils than nescessary what is the overall consensus?

Edited by Deafty
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An oil with a cps of 100k you will pretty much lock your diff up. I think the set up that deafty is running may be on the edge of locking the front diff. The weights that I am running give me a feeling that I am in control and suit me perfect for my driving style. You should try the weights I'm using I've had no problem with my diffs "cooking"

I have no trouble with my diffs locking up in my truggy front centre or rear neither do i have overheating issues Have you tried running oils this thick ?? thinner oils are great for buggys in my book but a truggy needs thicker .. hey just my take on it and my experience from using them but not every one is the same .. As you run thinner and have had great results from that .. so that just goes to show we all have are own preferences and what we think is best

If you think 100 is thick what about 300 or 500 which i run in my MT4 G3 almost the same size gears and diff housing and even that dont lock them up still running very simaliar motor combo aswell

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100000 wt approximately correspond to 5,210,635 cps.

That cant be true!

The only real comparison is between Rusty and myself as we use the same manufacture.

With Mydoddy's comments it is clear his oils are not as thick as what the numbers are telling us. Manufactures cant be compared to each other without independant testing.

I don't know where to go with this,. how can we help each other? short of buying more oil and trying it. Seems an expensive way to go about it,.and defeats the purpose of talking about it,.or not?

Anyone dug into the early posts on this thread to find out more?

Edited by Deafty
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