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Smartech Buggy Nitro Carburettor


Fideres

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Hello, was wondering if anyone can help as I'm new to Nitro, I need a new carb can I fit any .15 engine carbs for my Smartech buggy? or does it need to be a Smartech one.

Thanks.

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the answer, I am afraid...is possibly....

 

You haven;t supplied any information to help us really. It's like saying I need a new carb for my car. It's a Ford. Pictures help, if you can get one posted.

 

So, the first thing you need to do is find out who made the engine fitted to your car. It's wont be Smartech. They just rebrand stuff. HPI used to badge their engines with the HPI logo...but most were made by Force.

Now, the information may not be there to be found with google, or there maybe no clues on the motor itself, but as you have the physical motor there, a visual identification should be possible.

 

Failing that..,.. you need top measure the aperture the carb is going to fit into, then look for a carb from the right sized motor that will fit.

 

Most common for 'cheap brand' rebranded small block niotor motors is Team infinity. They supplied motors for a lot of re-brands. Partsd seem pretty thin on the ground though, so you may struggle.
If it is an Infinity motor.....well...they were pigs to tune when new, and not very good engiens.

If a carb is going to cost you £20-£25 to source....a whole new engine can be had for around £50. That gets you a Force .15 unit, which will be better all round

 

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Hi, thanks for replaying Nitroholic, ok that's fine this info has helped me lots thanks very much. I am in the process of sourcing a new carb at the moment and getting help with this.

The engine has an SMT logo on the crank case would be interesting to know what engine this is.

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Also, that's if it is the carb as when I brake the idle gap either goes back too far or not far enough and it doesn't tune enough using the small screw for the idle gap, I've tried everything with the rods (bars), throttle servo settings I just can't get the idle gap to 1 -2mm without it going over and cutting out or being like 4mm open.
Thanks for the help.
 
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According to this.,.,,,  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362767406002

the motor is a rebranded SH unit. Himoto used them in a lot of cars, so there are probably a lot of old cheap RC cars out there using the same carb, as Himoto sold designs rebranded by HSP, ACME etc.

 

Now....the idle thing could be a couple of things. If you completely disconnect the linkage, and screw the adjuster screw (the small one with the spring on it) all the way out, the carb should close completely. You can move the throttle arm to see if it will physically go.

 

It could be just the arm that is fauilty. They can wear where they bolt onto the end of the carb slide. That can affect how much movement you get, as the movement may be slop not slide...

It may also be that the carb slide is jammed. Dirt of congealed fuel may be stopping the needle from going all the way in to achieve a proper idle.

 

If your carb is FUBAR, then you may want to try taking it apart. It's not difficult. The nut holding the throttle arm on breaks down the slide mechanism, and the whole slide mechanism should 'unwind' out of the carb.

 

If you don;t fancy that....and the carb won't manually wind in/out as it should.....you could try taking it opff the car and popping it in a little pot of nitro fuel. Any congealed fuel residue will dissolve in fresh nitro if left for a bit. that might make it move as it should.

If your carb can be manually closed to fully shut....then you can use hte adjuster to set the correct gap and give it a go. There is only 1 moving part in the carb...so it really ought to be fixable!

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Many thanks Nitroholic for helping and sharing this knowledge, yeh it was me my lack of understanding of tuning I got my other Smartech to run very well and this was a doner for my main one. I haven't been tuning this one much as ive been enjoying my main one but I am now looking to upgrade to a 1/8 nitro buggy and I'm researching for which one to get at a good price on ebay.

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2 hours ago, Nitroholic said:

For a first 1/8 buggy..... you won;t go far wrong with a Hobao Hyper 7.

 

Definately and when you get tired of faffing about with nitro its fairely easy to convert to leccy :good:

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I had a Hyper 7 over 10 years ago and made the mistake of selling it a year ago as it was slightly faulty and not knowing how to repair and tune it back then and I wanted 1/10 brushless. I do like the Kyosho Inferno, any recommendation as to which one that is ok for parts? I think the DX has trouble with parts these days? 

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Kyosho....err....I actually can;t think of many Kyosho models that I would call 'good' for spares at all sadly. I have been cheered up recently by Kyosho re-releasing what is basically a Madforce again, so apreas for my old truck should be a thing again and I won;t have to make/bodge/adapt stuff to keep it going. Mind you...I call it a Kyosho...but....it has Hyper diffs ( same size but stronger straight cut pinions), HPI Savage axles ( Kyosho ones were brittle and used to break axle cups), after market diff cases and axle tubes, homemade chassis with a Hyper 7 centre diff and brushless conversion..... but I do have all the old bits in a box!

 

For me...I do the E-Bay test. If I get less than 5 pages of parts when I google (RC Car Name) & spares then I consider my options. Less than 3 and I know it's going to be a shelf queen.....

 

Even aftrer all these years, Hyper 7 parts are still easy to get and the car is still being made new.

 

I think the Inferno would probably handle better, but the Hyper is more durable

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Thanks for the info guys, yeh I agree with the Hyper 7's durability as I did have a big crash with it ages ago and it was completely fine afterwards, I didn't realise that the spares for Kyosho's were abit thin on the ground, glad I know now thanks. Great project Kyosho you got their Nitroholic nice and thanks for the advice to check for spares availability first.

 

Does the Ansmann Virus 2.0 version and onwards share allot of the parts with the Hyper 7? as theirs plenty of these available for all prices and conditions.

 

 

 

Edited by Fideres
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On 18/06/2021 at 23:33, Nitroholic said:

For a first 1/8 buggy..... you won;t go far wrong with a Hobao Hyper 7.

 

You can buy Hobao cars cheap but the parts have traditionally been a bit more expensive than competitors and available in less stores due to the vintage.
I’d really recommend a used hpi trophy buggy or hot bodies lightning(same thing). It was originally cloned from an old kyosho as Carson king of dirt but has been rebranded a few times with near zero part changes on the nitro.

 

The biggest change I’ve noticed has been the bodyshell/mudguard shape it was changed under hot bodies to resemble the kyosho mp7.5 less which it was cloned from. Everything fits the same chassis from Carson to hot bodes to hpi racing.


PS I started on a smartech and even when the parts were new they had multiple revisions and parts had to be ordered from China/Australia. The only way to continue running one now would be a parts car off eBay or 3D printing everything in nylon. For the engine you just need an air compressor and o rings to fix seals to be fai

 

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Hi thanks for the info crazyfrog it's nice to know that about the HPI Trophy's although I ended up getting an Ansmann Virus 2.0 nitro for a good deal in the end, I like the looks of it and have read good things so I thought ill give it ago, it's a project to me as it could do with scrubbing up and some new parts, I like fixer uppers and I'm still learning nitro so this was ideal for me. 

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Just now, Fideres said:

Hi thanks for the info crazyfrog it's nice to know that about the HPI Trophy's although I ended up getting an Ansmann Virus 2.0 nitro for a good deal in the end, I like the looks of it and have read good things so I thought ill give it ago, it's a project to me as it could do with scrubbing up and some new parts, I like fixer uppers and I'm still learning nitro so this was ideal for me. 

Ansmann virus Discontinued several years ago, not much difference in those but they’re both based on kyosho mp7.5 with force engines  

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