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King motor 29cc will not start.


richb77

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Hi all.

 

Ive been lurking a long time but recent events have caused me to pipe up.

 

About 2 years ago i bought a King motor 29cc Baja. I ran it once where i hit a hidden rabbit hole (not fast as i was running in) but it was an awkward bounce and i broke a drive shaft. It took a few months to source a replacement (upgraded) and the car has sat in the basement ever since.

 

Ive resurrected it, but for the life of me i cannot get the "Child of unmarried parents" to start.

 

I have replaced the Chinese spark plug with a NGK version.

I have cleared out the fuel lines with fresh 98 Ron with Mobil 1, 2 stroke oil at 25;1

I have checked the air filter which is clean. 

I pump the primer and can see their is fresh fuel in the cylinder. I have a good spark and when pulling the starter (after about 15 minutes of choke on, off, throttle open, closed) i can see excess fuel shooting from the exhaust.

 

I am at a complete loss. I so want to run this model but cant afford an electric conversion. Is there anything else i could have missed? Anything obvious or not?


The motor tune and state of the carb etc is stock from the box. I doubt a few bumps will have adjusted it but i am open to options.

 

Oh and the brake is non existent...Is this normal for clones?

 

Thanks for any help.

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Chances are the insides of the carb are all gummed up being sat unused for so long. Have you another carb to try or you could try a carb rebuild kit? Check for air leaks aswell around gasket points and seals around the crank. 

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Thanks for the pointers chaps.

 

I managed to get some time today to have a tinker.

 

Engine shut off switch. 

I have placed  multimeter set to continuity (Beeps if a circuit is made) across the switches pins. I get a constant tone proving there is a circuit. I press the button and NOTHING changes. Still a constant beep.

 

So the switch doesnt work.  My assumption the pressing the switch breaks the circuit stopping the motor...that must  be wrong if the circuit is constantly connected...So does the switch when operated to kill the motor create a circuit? 

 

Can anyone clarify how the kill switch kills the motor?

 

Im planning on taking it out of the loop tomorrow (time being on my side) and test a good old toggle switch in its place.

 

Next its onto carb cleaning...or a new Walbro...668?

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So to start get rid of any switchblade they are overpriced and ****. I've had 2 of them and they only last a couple of weeks. I've had a dynamite for last 5 months and never had a issue with it. 

When you had you're bump did the engine stop and not get restarted? Check the engine compression you could've pooped the ring! I highly doubt there is any issue with the carb as its technically over fueling which could also cause the engine to flood. The kill swith on the engine just take it off completely. It works in the way the when the circuit is open the engine will fire, if the circuit complete or close then engine will not fire. I put a pic of my killswitch! I just have bare wires. As it is now it will start. If I connect the wires the engine won't start. 

I also have a remote dynamite kill switch 

IMG_20200820_203540.jpg

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If you remove the switch on the engine completely the engine will still  run, By pressing the switch it completes the circuit to ground the coil and kill the spark. The switchblade is just another switch to do the job remotely with a few extras added into it ie LVC and signal loss circuits. To me it sounds like a faulty switch.  Try start engine with no switch connected. But be prepared to pull the plug cap off to stop the engine. 

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OK. I removed and electrically checked my kil swith... Permanently closed (in operation) so I bought an anti tamper style replacement (actually I had it lying around). Still no joy so I checked the open wires as shown in JD101s post. A short black and short red that went to the kill switch. 

 

If I'm understanding it correctly the switch links these wires which ground the coil and kills the motor? 

If that's correct then I'm in trouble as mine even spaced apart by 1cm are showing a connection with a multimeter. So where do these go and how do I get to them? 

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There just the wires off the motor kill button. My spring went in the button so I just cut it off. They go to the flywheel magneto thingy.

Yeah so if you're showing closed while open you must have a short on the kill button or the magneto or even possibly on the killswitch. Also check you're spark plug. I had a issue with power draining and it turned out to be a bad plug. Also if you've not got you're receiver and transmitter plugged in and on the switchblade if you got one it will keep the circuit closed! 

Edited by Jd101
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Right.

 

Well i removed the coil and wondered if it had slipped.

 

But i have tested the coil and have these results.

 

1) Two parts of the magnet on the underside of the coil are connected (as i would suspect)

2) The Black wire is not connected to the Spark plug (Cap on the lead)

3) The Red wire is not connected to the Spark plug (Cap on the lead)

4) The Red and Black wires are still connected, as are their terminals with the wires removed.

 

Point 4 is whats worrying me. To me there is an internal issue with the coil if the leads/terminals are permanently connected?

 

I need to talk to someone that understands the coils better than me so i will try the local lawn mower place, but any other help would be great.

 

Thanks for it all so far chaps.

 

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