richb77

OK. The UK wasnt much help and just suggested i buy a coil. Shipping was more than the part but hey ho...It should be here soon. I just hope that solves it.

Right. Well i removed the coil and wondered if it had slipped. But i have tested the coil and have these results. 1) Two parts of the magnet on the underside of the coil are connected (as i would suspect) 2) The Black wire is not connected to the Spark plug (Cap on the lead) 3) The Red wire is not connected to the Spark plug (Cap on the lead) 4) The Red and Black wires are still connected, as are their terminals with the wires removed. Point 4 is whats worrying me. To me there is an internal issue with the coil if the leads/terminals are permanently connected? I need to talk to someone that understands the coils better than me so i will try the local lawn mower place, but any other help would be great. Thanks for it all so far chaps.

No. I've not removed the coil, but if bare wires are showing a closed loop I'm guessing the. Coil could be bad. I have no kill switch and no other device connected.

OK. I removed and electrically checked my kil swith... Permanently closed (in operation) so I bought an anti tamper style replacement (actually I had it lying around). Still no joy so I checked the open wires as shown in JD101s post. A short black and short red that went to the kill switch. If I'm understanding it correctly the switch links these wires which ground the coil and kills the motor? If that's correct then I'm in trouble as mine even spaced apart by 1cm are showing a connection with a multimeter. So where do these go and how do I get to them?

Thanks for the pointers chaps. I managed to get some time today to have a tinker. Engine shut off switch. I have placed multimeter set to continuity (Beeps if a circuit is made) across the switches pins. I get a constant tone proving there is a circuit. I press the button and NOTHING changes. Still a constant beep. So the switch doesnt work. My assumption the pressing the switch breaks the circuit stopping the motor...that must be wrong if the circuit is constantly connected...So does the switch when operated to kill the motor create a circuit? Can anyone clarify how the kill switch kills the motor? Im planning on taking it out of the loop tomorrow (time being on my side) and test a good old toggle switch in its place. Next its onto carb cleaning...or a new Walbro...668?

Hi all. Ive been lurking a long time but recent events have caused me to pipe up. About 2 years ago i bought a King motor 29cc Baja. I ran it once where i hit a hidden rabbit hole (not fast as i was running in) but it was an awkward bounce and i broke a drive shaft. It took a few months to source a replacement (upgraded) and the car has sat in the basement ever since. Ive resurrected it, but for the life of me i cannot get the "Child of unmarried parents" to start. I have replaced the Chinese spark plug with a NGK version. I have cleared out the fuel lines with fresh 98 Ron with Mobil 1, 2 stroke oil at 25;1 I have checked the air filter which is clean. I pump the primer and can see their is fresh fuel in the cylinder. I have a good spark and when pulling the starter (after about 15 minutes of choke on, off, throttle open, closed) i can see excess fuel shooting from the exhaust. I am at a complete loss. I so want to run this model but cant afford an electric conversion. Is there anything else i could have missed? Anything obvious or not? The motor tune and state of the carb etc is stock from the box. I doubt a few bumps will have adjusted it but i am open to options. Oh and the brake is non existent...Is this normal for clones? Thanks for any help.