Getting back into rc cars and I need a little help!

[RcTT01]

Hi all

 

Iv decided to get my old nitro buggy out from my parents garage to see if I can get it going. 
 

it’s always had issues with starting and been unreliable. 
 

I’m going to order some fresh fuel and glow plugs,  what else should I do as it’s not run for 5 years maybe?

 

also, I’m fed up with how difficult it’s always been to start, if I remember rightly it came with a torque / drill start thing, (sorry I don’t know the name for it) I took it off and just started using a starter box but wasn’t always easy. 

 

whats best to start the engine? Pull cord or a drill? Iv got a few decent drills always charged for work so would be keen to use those if that’s better than a pull cord. 
 

The car is a Jammin X1CR which I got from America maybe 10-15 years ago

 

Its missing a few minor bits, are there anywhere I could get parts for it in the Uk? 

[Jumper]

Always best to heat the engine up before trying to start it. They can be very hard to start from stone cold. Also make sure its primed correctly. 

 

It should start pretty much a couple of pulls or blips of a drill if it warm, tuned properly and primed. 

[rob foster]

It looks remarkabley like a thunder tiger eb4 s1 maybe check out the parts?  Ur carb might be gunked up after all this time a strip and clean might be a good idea.  Also if you are sure LSN isn't all messed up then a good prime fresh plug and fully charged glow should get it going.  You might want to Consider resetting the carb though.. I would. 

Edited April 29, 2020 by rob foster

[gavin.lucas82]

I've just in the process of doing same, except mines the Hong Nor X1CRT Pro. Good to see someone else dusting off their vintage car [emoji1303]

As I've got plenty of time to kill at the momnent I'd do a thorough rebuild [emoji23]. As it was stripped for storage 10 years ive cleaned and rebuilt mine from scratch. I've done the following:

Bought new fuel and glow plugs
Changed the diff and shock oil, bought new team associated oils.
Replaced all the shims, gaskets, o-rings.
Bought a new glow heater, 1.5v plug in type as my starter box has the mini control panel on the front, my old battery glow heater has perished.
Replaced the hump and receiver battery pack.
Replaced the clutch shoes and springs
Fitted new silicone fuel tubing
Replaced the silicone exhaust bushes as they had also perished
Bought new wheels and tyres
Also replaced all the stock screw, nuts etc for a stainless steel screw set.

My engine is a RB WS7ii X3 .21 and im banking on it starting as I never had any issues with it before I stripped the car. I've always put some after run oil in the chamber id being stored for a period of time.

As you've kept yours complete you won't need to do half of the above, just make sure all your batteries are good including glow heater, if the engine fires up your away.

Be good to hear if you manage dget it going




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[RcTT01]

Thanks for all the replies! I will post photos as I progress with getting it going again!
 

can anyone help me find a pull start or torque start to fit my engine? I’m not exactly sure how it’s supposed to work? 
 

thanks

Arthur 

 

 

[gavin.lucas82]

Thanks for all the replies! I will post photos as I progress with getting it going again!
 
can anyone help me find a pull start or torque start to fit my engine? I’m not exactly sure how it’s supposed to work? 
 
thanks
Arthur 
 
 

Think this is what your looking for but unfortunately out of stock at Modelsports.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hong-nor-force-pullstart-assembly-12mm/rc-car-products/28801

Try giving a hobby store a call as I've spoken to a few in the last few weeks which has been really helpful.

For parts SMD still have a decent stock and will order certain thing in but take a while

https://smddirect.co.uk/


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[Inferno-Chris]

its a force 21 engine isnt it.
should be able to find a pull start for that somewhere.
youll need a one-way roller bearing nut, to slide onto the shaft as well.

did you fit that 26 head on the engine yourself ?
i wonder if its got something to do with your starting and reliability issues. might be missing a gasket underneath, or different shape underside, to the original.

pull start with screws - double check the part number on this, before you buy.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Force-engine-FMAPARTS-7G-Pull-start-14mm-Hex-w-screws/332555755023?hash=item4d6dde1e0f:g:vkcAAOSwznVauQJQ

one way bearing - measure the shaft, to see if its 6mm. if so, this should fit, and mate to that 14mm pull cord
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14mm-Hex-One-Way-Bearing-6mm-Shaft-for-Pull-Starter-Ntro-RC-Engine/330508278905?epid=1509891850&hash=item4cf3d41c79:g:WL8AAOSw~vpZ8JD0

[Inferno-Chris]

or, instead of the pull start, you could buy a second hand bump box thingy, which starts the car by spinning the flywheel, from underneath.
ive never used one myself, but all the pro racers do

[rob foster]

The  backing plate doesn't seem to have a notch or recess to connect to crank so it was robably started with a bump box.  Like said a one way nut would be needed to convert to pullstart plus  proper backing plate. 

[Inferno-Chris]

8 minutes ago, rob foster said:

The  backing plate doesn't seem to have a notch or recess to connect to crank so it was robably started with a bump box.  Like said a one way nut would be needed to convert to pullstart plus  proper backing plate. 

well spotted rob. eagle  eyes

[Inferno-Chris]

difficult to tell from the pic, as its not zoomed, but might have a sloped slot on it, to guide the crank in, similar to this pic. not sure tho, youll have to take a closer look.

 

[rob foster]

7 minutes ago, Inferno-Chris said:

difficult to tell from the pic, as its not zoomed, but might have a sloped slot on it, to guide the crank in, similar to this pic. not sure tho, youll have to take a closer look.

 

I can't quite see on the pics but if there is a notch on crank this groove fits into then bingo, a one way nut on outside part of shaft would do the trick most likely. So pullstart or drill both possibilities. You wouldn't need a one way nut with a bump box though. 

[RcTT01]

9 hours ago, Inferno-Chris said:

its a force 21 engine isnt it.
should be able to find a pull start for that somewhere.
youll need a one-way roller bearing nut, to slide onto the shaft as well.

did you fit that 26 head on the engine yourself ?
i wonder if its got something to do with your starting and reliability issues. might be missing a gasket underneath, or different shape underside, to the original.

pull start with screws - double check the part number on this, before you buy.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Force-engine-FMAPARTS-7G-Pull-start-14mm-Hex-w-screws/332555755023?hash=item4d6dde1e0f:g:vkcAAOSwznVauQJQ

one way bearing - measure the shaft, to see if its 6mm. if so, this should fit, and mate to that 14mm pull cord
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14mm-Hex-One-Way-Bearing-6mm-Shaft-for-Pull-Starter-Ntro-RC-Engine/330508278905?epid=1509891850&hash=item4cf3d41c79:g:WL8AAOSw~vpZ8JD0

Thanks for the links, I will measure the shaft and get those ordered if you think that’s what I need?

 

The 26 head came with the engine from new. 
 

[RcTT01]

9 hours ago, Inferno-Chris said:

or, instead of the pull start, you could buy a second hand bump box thingy, which starts the car by spinning the flywheel, from underneath.
ive never used one myself, but all the pro racers do

Iv got a bump box but I never got on with it! 

[RcTT01]

So is there supposed to be some sort of pin in here?

[RcTT01]

[Inferno-Chris]

1 hour ago, RcTT01 said:

So is there supposed to be some sort of pin in here?

in my limited knowledge, yeah, all the engines ive seen, have about 5 mm of crankshaft sticking past the conrod, to engage the plate.
i dont know what to do about that.
i think you'll be best off saving your money, and just using the bump box.

[RcTT01]

9 hours ago, Inferno-Chris said:

in my limited knowledge, yeah, all the engines ive seen, have about 5 mm of crankshaft sticking past the conrod, to engage the plate.
i dont know what to do about that.
i think you'll be best off saving your money, and just using the bump box.

Iv had a look in my stuff and I can’t find this pin! 
 

I assume it would be a pain to try buy one?

 

thanks for the help

Arthur 

[RcTT01]

Would this be what I need?

[rob foster]

3 hours ago, RcTT01 said:

Would this be what I need?

There seems to be a notch missing off the crank.  I recall when I was I to nitro there being a few different t types of cranks/starter configurations.  I think you have a crank that's either damaged or it's specifically designed to be used with a bump box.  I used to run eb4s and you could buy a backing plate and crank specifically without the notch/pin on the crank.  Pull start backing plates tend to have the notch or pin that attaches to the crank in the head and therefore spinning the motor when turned.   The bump box backing plates don't connect to crank but sometimes the crank would be specifically made without the notch/pin.    You should inspect the crank to see if the pin was originally there or if its manufactured that way. 

[RcTT01]

The car used to have an attachment on it so it could be started with a roto start so I’d imagine I pull start could go on. 

 

i don’t think the crank is damaged, I honestly haven’t got a clue about engines but surely if I got a pin and I assume a little spring and put it in the crank that should be ready for a pull start?

 

thanks

 

[Inferno-Chris]

13 hours ago, RcTT01 said:

Would this be what I need?

all the cranks ive seen, are like this pic, and have been a 1 piece design, with the extended guide drive on its end, but the end of yours is hollow, so maybe your right.... maybe that pin, in the kit, fits inside the end of the crankshaft.

odd design, but it kinda makes sense, if thats how it works on that particular engine, otherwise how are you supposed to start the thing.
the pin in the kit, looks like a similar size, to the inner diameter of the crank end. looks a little small for the end plate hole tho. difficult to tel.

ill have a quick search on google, see if anyone else has had the same issue with .21 force engine.

have you tried fitting the backplate, and spinning the engine over, to see if it turns the starter shaft ?

[Inferno-Chris]

it would appear so.
i noticed another engine that uses the same design too,  a schumacher engine.

Starting Pin 5 X 2.55Mm - Fp-Rs18

FORCEENGINES

Product Details

Starting Pin 5 X 2.55Mm - Fp-Rs18 Starting Pin 5 X 2.55Mm - Fp-Rs18

Specifications

SKU	FP-RS18
Brand	FORCEENGINES
Shipping Cubic	0.000000000m3

© 2020 Northern Beaches Hobby Centre

[Inferno-Chris]

if your getting one as part of a kit, that will be handy, but if you need one separate, i found one here, uk seller, for £1.50
im not 100% sure its the right part, youll have to measure the hole in the crank, see if its that 5x2.55 pin will fit, but its listed as fitting a .21 force engine. part number rs18.

https://sriremotetoys.co.uk/Engines-Accessories/Engines-Accessories-Ansmann-AR-Engine-Parts-Force/RS18-MAIN-SHAFT-PIN-Starting-pin-Force-21-to-46-Engines

[RcTT01]

8 hours ago, Inferno-Chris said:

if your getting one as part of a kit, that will be handy, but if you need one separate, i found one here, uk seller, for £1.50
im not 100% sure its the right part, youll have to measure the hole in the crank, see if its that 5x2.55 pin will fit, but its listed as fitting a .21 force engine. part number rs18.

https://sriremotetoys.co.uk/Engines-Accessories/Engines-Accessories-Ansmann-AR-Engine-Parts-Force/RS18-MAIN-SHAFT-PIN-Starting-pin-Force-21-to-46-Engines

Thanks for the help Chris

 

I might order that pin just incase, do you think it comes with the spring?

 

im also thinking of buying this 

 

https://smddirect.co.uk/collections/force-brand/products/fma-b21c

 

not much info on it, do you think this would fit? Worth a gamble?

 

thanks

Arthur