rob foster

These alloy shock towers have the mount built in and all fender liners fit properly too.

Wow this looks great. I also have the blue d110 on a premium kit. Are those 2.2 tyres on there?

Aftermarket hexes can do this, alloy wheels can do this especially stuff from chyna. Are you sure it's not just the tyre that's wobbling

If it doesn't glow white then it's not hot enough. If you get stuck and start scratching your head then it's most likely down to the glowstick. I'd say 90 percent of starting issues are glow related either the stick or a fouled plug from tuning. I would recommend changing your plug after initial tune and half a dozen tanks. Once past this, a plug could last weeks

The tank lid acts as a pump, so if you pinch the tube going into the exhaust this creates a vacuum. When you flip the lid quickly you'll see the fuel going up the tube. Pinching the tube is the same as putting a finger over the exhaust tip to prime it but more effective

If you squeeze the exhaust breather, and flip the lid on the tank it will force fuel up the tube. Once it reaches the carb flick it one last time. This should prime the carb for starting. Too much fuel primed will cause hydra lock and the pull cord will be tight as. To remove excess primed fuel crack the glow plug off, turn car upside down and rip the cord twice

3.5 turns refers to all way in, then out. This should take you somewhere near flush

It should feel tight but not too tight. Your issues would have been the glowstick. They do glow up even when they are flat. If your running rich this will cause resistance when pulling starter. The car should start on 1st or second pull if primed properly and tuned fully

Another great bit of advice for you is to always charge your glowstick up when your not using it. A poorly charged one can give you headaches.

Yes clockwise makes it leaner=more low to mid speed Anti clockwise makes things richer=more bogging richer mixture If you get to a point where it won't fire up, richen up the LSN by 1/32 and try again. You can once you get your head around this, control that little bit of adjustment using your trim on the remote.

No the internal bec runs at 5.1v. The shift servos are rated at 6v. The servo for steering on mine is 6.8v so I bypassed the internal bec using a cc bec and switched it to 6.8v

Yes that looks good, smoke thins out approaching wot, sounds like it's reaching high revs. Your idle seems almost crack on I would just do the LSN needle at literally 1/32 of a turn but do not turn the LSN blindly by just shoving a screwdriver in there. Be carefull and hold the entire servo mechanism still with one hand and caress the LSN carefully, take note not to have the servo mechanism move whilst turning the LSN. Do this until you can full throttle it from a standing start with no bogging. You should feel that you can just plant the throttle from standing. Once you get to this point run the car for several tanks without adjusting anything. It may stall a few times and whilst the motor is still tight you need to put a few tanks through it. After 3 or 4 tanks you can control the entire rev range by simply turning the hsn in or out 1/32 depending on ambient twmperature/ hot or cold start situations. Think of it as adjusting the choke on a real car. The weather outside will have an effect on this as well as nitro percentage. Hope this helps

OK, the hsn should be adjusted BEFORE you go near the LSN. You need to adjust top speed before you can adjust adle and standing stop to half speed. If it runs just enough to get it going.. Do that then if it bogs at WOT, turn the hsn down 1/16th. Repeat until the engine will hit max revs and a decent speed. Once the hsn is set, then you can move onto the LSN. With the LSN your only making adjustments of miniscule amounts I'm talking 1/32 of a turn barely even moving it. You will start to notice the low speed acceleration matching upto the medium to high speed more and more. Hope this helps

I would second this. It looks to me as if there is just enough pressure to get the thing moving, but there's a definite delay which sounds like gears spinning on each other

Are you running a 25kg servo, I found the 5.1 v from the internal bec was pathetic, so found a bec and bypassed the esc to power the servo, this way the diff lock servos can remain on 5.1v whilst the steering servo is taking 6.8v.. It really wakes everything up torque wise. It looks like the g500 switch is a different shape