My E-Maxx (FLM, 4092, RPM, etc.)

[yoodoo]

On 8/17/2017 at 22:11, tt3az said:

Today I got my backup Hyper 7 differentials, cheaper than getting individual parts if something needs replacement in the future.

 

 

HPI Vorza 48T, and Hyper 7 46T. I don't know what I will do with the Hyper 7 differential but it is always good to have a backup.

 

Other "good" news is that my package from RC-Monster is at JFK and I hope it will be sent tomorrow to Sweden by air. USPS claim it takes 6-10 business days so I hope I will get the items on tuseday.

If you need anything like that,I mean brand new , look into Jennies RC and Dollar Hobbies. They break new machines and flog them on.

J

[tt3az]

I tend to use UK chop shops for that purpose because it ships quickly to Sweden, about 2 days and no customs tax

[tt3az]

The most exhausting thing with this center diff conversion was dogbone lenght because you don't know if the manufacturers measure from pin or total lenght. I was told my RC mike that 85mm and 107mm dogbones would work but looking at another Vmaxx build the builder used a rear FLM dogbone (107mm) and a 93mm Hobao/Ofna dog bone in the front so I am a bit confused as to what dog bone to use in the front. I want to order all parts at the same time so I can start the conversion right away once the RC-Monster stuff arrive.

Edited August 20, 2017 by tt3az

[yoodoo]

I can measure one of my Maxx's if thats any good?

J

 

From the home of Wintergatan hey

Edited August 20, 2017 by yoodoo

[tt3az]

If you use the FLM 107mm rear dogbone then yes, if not then you don't need to bother hihi  .

[tt3az]

I recieved my dogbones and I have figured out the missmatch between the measurements I got from another Vmaxx build and those measures RC-Mike spoke about. The total lenght of the hobao/ofna front dogbone is 93mm, and pin to pin 86mm (measured from the middle of the pin). This is more lin line with what RC-Mike mentions (85mm front and 107mm rear). Now I have a 86mm pin to pin dogbone for the front and FLM 107mm pin to pin dog bone to the rear, I am happy it turned out so well in the end. I could possible use the rear hobao dogbone as well since it is 108mm pin to pin, it is always nice to have backup.

 

My package has finally arrived in sweden customs, and according to information it I will recieve it on monday the 28th. It did how ever take 4 days to arrive from copenhagen to malmö which is a shame since the distance is very short.

 

I also got my extension servo wires and 1 meter 10 gauge wire for motor extension and a 11t and 12t mod 1 pinion. I just need to get some addtional solder on monday. It seem everything is set now.

[b19jas]

Nice. I've running a hobbywing 4092 for a few years in my emaxx. It's serious motor. It's a struggle to keep any wheels down let alone the fronts. Haven't done a diff yet though. 

[tt3az]

Yes, with that kind of power I thought I needed to make a center diff conversion in order to save the driveline and increase drivebility. I have only heard good things about center diffs on the savage xl and e-maxx so I took the shot. But it was an expensive upgrade though. Could be cheaper if i would cut the FLM chassis but then I would have the issue of finding the right lenght dogbones. What worried me was that with the 2200kv motor I snapped the transmission output shaft and also I had the issue of constantly having to tighten the slipper nut on the RRP clutch. I expect to get a more consistent result with the center diff. Transmission on MTs are old school, almost all new MTs have center differentials.

 

 

[Malcs RC]

this is sweet 

[RCbutcher]

Uk chop shops? 

 

Very nice mental maxx the motor looks mental too. I have the leopard 2700kv 4065 and it hauls my slash. I cant imagine what this would do apart from not fit lol. So much torque acceleration just

 ejects the front/rear ends. Like kicking slippers off lol. 

[tt3az]

Yes, UK fleebay shops selling demounted parts from RCs. There is where I found my front and rear Hyper 7 diffs.

 

Anything above the 2200kv in the e-maxx requires alot of investment and maintenance to be bash proof according to me. Even with the center diff which supposedly should save the driveline a bit, with the 4092 motors the 1/8 diffs can still get damaged, or more likely the bevel gears inside the drive cup, as well as the driveshaft pins snap. But it is fun and above all it is a hobby. It is nice to have that excess torque when you want to bash and jump. The 2200kv sensored from castle was great and had plenty of torque, but my truck is heavier than stock so a lower kv motor and higher gearing is to perfer. I have only heard positive about the 4092, both the 1730kv and the 1480kv so I got one because I could find one locally. As I said I have almost replicated another Vmaxx build that I found on a forum and the owner was kind enough to let me buy some of his old parts so I saved some time and money.

Edited August 27, 2017 by tt3az

[tt3az]

1 hour ago, Malcs RC said:

this is sweet 

How Is your savage xl build going, I haven't seen any updates lately? It would be fun to see some more it looked like a promising build, it is always nice to get some inspiration so others can benefit. 

[tt3az]

I recieved my parts on monday and I started to mount all components right away.

 

I ordered the V-Maxx chassis, center skidplate and universal diff mount from RC-Monster.

 

The battery boxes are great but they are too narrow for my lipos, but I can still squeeze them in luckily. The chassis has minimal aluminium material compared to the FLM, which feels more sturdy.

 

I had already demounted all parts from the FLM chassis and degreased all screws and threads. I began mounting the steering unit and servos.

 

 

I had to mount the servos on the upper side of the chassis otherwise it wouldn't work, as with the FLM chassis.

 

 

 

Frontal section is done. Note that I use shims on the rod to prevent the threaded area from pushing into the plastic rod ends stripping it. 

 

Now on to the center differential mount. The quality and fitment is stunning. I use the HPI Vorza 48T center d

 

 

 

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by tt3az

[tt3az]

I continued with the upgrade and mounted the center skidplate/diff holder. Since I use the 48T spur on the center diff I had to shave off a few milimeters of material on the skid plate as well as using some 1mm thick shims preventing the spur gear grinding against the surface.

 

 

 

 

 

In the front I used a 93mm (total lenght) and 86mm (pin to pin) dog bone and in the rear a 115mm (total lenght) and 108mm (pin to pin) dog bone. I ordered the Hobao center shafts for the Hyper 8 and 9 RCs. Item number for these are 89124. I used some fuel tubing and o-rings in the drive cups to eliminate excessive movement. I could possible move the center diff unit a few milimeters forward if I wanted to. So these are the measurements if anybody else are thinking about making this conversion.

 

 

 

 

I then mounted the motor, a Leopard 4092 1730kv. The can is pretty tall. These 4092 style motors are sold under a variety of names, just search for "4092" on Google to find the motor you are looking for.

 

 

 

 

 

[tt3az]

As you might recall I mounted the steering link on top of the arm in order to prevent it rubbing against the dogbone. How ever since I have raised the diff mount with shims, I can now mount the steering link as intended.

 

Old:

 

New:

 

 

 

Now on to the ordinary time line so you can see the progress gradually. I intended to mount the Rustler reciever box behind the diff mount and ESC so I needed to create a custom mount that use factory drilled holes in the chassis. I made a paper template as usual.

 

I then placed the reciever box and marked the holes. I intend to cover up the bigger holes with tape preventing water entering the case.

 

I order to save weight and create a "factory style" mounting piece, I made it smaller.

 

I used a 4mm thick aluminum piece which was cut with a hand saw and multitool. I drilled and threaded the holes.

 

After som sanding and polishing, the final result:

 

Reciever box and TSM reciever mounted. The ESC mount with integrated fan holder was made prior. The ESC is held down by the RPM Mamba Monster mount.

 

Since I have an external BEC, I needed to mount it some where. I made a mount out of 2mm L-shaped aluminum. I use factory holes on the chassis.

 

The BEC is held in place with velcro tape and a zip tie. BEC is a Hobbywing 15A which is painted with plastidip in order to make it waterproof.

Edited September 2, 2017 by tt3az

[Gavster29]

Lovely build so far!

Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

[yoodoo]

Love the home made stuff...great job.

J

[yoodoo]

How do you find the shocks?

J

[tt3az]

The big bores are smoother than the stock ones due to the coating. I am satisfied with them, running 65wt oil and a combination of VG Racing springs and integy ones. I wanted to make a shock upgrade for a long time and the only viable choice was the big bores because it is difficult to get the right size buggy shocks and then aftermarket springs that fit. Still with this setup I have bound and rebound so it is not too stiff. It works perfect with this setup. I have experimented with preload spacers since the springs are progressive the suspension gets stiffer if I load up on preloads. The reason I got stiffer springs was because I didn't want to have so many preloads.

Edited September 2, 2017 by tt3az

[yoodoo]

Yes, I have the big bores on one of my GorrillaMaxx'x,but I found the springs a bit soft.I have Proline Powerstrokes on another EMaxx but they are too soft and the springs to fit are like chickens teeth to find.The cheapies I put on the alloy Maxx and they are just right....so far!

J

[atom3624]

That's a fantastic build.

I was concerned about the steering link mount, particularly knowing the force required on mine - glad you were able to overcome this.

Loving the centre diff and mounting.

I've kept mine as uprated 2-speed - which it definitely doesn't need, so it's nice to see other options, even now.

 

Al.

[tt3az]

The steering is still not perfect I had to cut the servo spring of the second servo saver and shave down the steering post in order to make it fit. These chassis are not made for two servo savers. But dual servo saver mod is still the best mod out there to remove slope I have heard, even better than the hot racing steering unit. UE makes a steering unit but it cost 80 dollars plus shipping and VAT and that is too much. Dual servos are a pain though but I need it because the truck is so heavy, I enjoy the extra power. But even with two servo springs, they still engage on pavement. Actually I had to flie down both steerings posts a bit because they were too tall fo the Vmaxx chassis and FLM skids. I never got the RCM front and rear skid because I alreaddy had skids from FLM which I cut to prevent bending.

 

I have eliminated most issues on the truck as far as slope and weaknesses but the steering is still something that bugs me a bit. I also had to cut away the reinforcement on the screw mounting positions on the Savöx servos in order to mount them on top of the chassis to get everything to line up. The stock Traxxas servos are not the same lenght and height as the Savöx sw-1210sg and I sort of had this issue even with the stock chassis and the FLM.

[tt3az]

I continued with the cable management and it took a while untill I figured out how to draw all the wires. I used a few extension adapters and I made the motor wire extensions myself from 10 AWG wire.

 

 

 

 

Almost finished:

 

 

 

 

I was never really satisfied with the premounted Super Swampers because they ballooned like crazy and that made the tires come lose from the rims. What I did was to soak the wheels in 1 inch of acetone for a few hours and then I boiled the tires and rims to make the rest of the glue brittle. I then scraped away all excess glue and sanded the tires and wheel edge to make the CA glue stick better. One issue with the premounted wheels is that Proline use far too little glue on some batches and they don't degrease the tires and rims before gluing them.

 

I used some Loctite Super Glue because that is all I had for the moment. Should be the same as tyre CA glue. What I did before the gluing was to tape the inside of the tires with duct tape in order to prevent ballooning and I also punched a hole on each side with a leather punch to make the wheels breathe. The holes on the rims are covered with tape on the inside and outside preventing sand and water entering. This tip I  got from a hobbyist so I thought I wanted to try it. Now the wheels should function better.

[atom3624]

The holes being covered will certainly stop water and grime entering inside the wheel, but when jumping, they act as part of the suspension, absorbing some of the impact.

Covering them up will make the truck more 'bouncy'.

Depends what you want to do, where you want to go with it - I like to have them, but it is true, inside of the wheels can get a bit grotty with time.

 

Al.

[tt3az]

That is correct. That is why I punched holes in the tires instead  .