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Green fluid from pull start?


Michae1Marsha11

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Meh, engine is broke. Something was stuck in between the piston hence the seized effect it gave. Looks like it snapped from somewhere. A bearing fell out of the engine once freed, can't get into the engine as the screws in the heat sink are to tight to undo. One big headache. 

 

Putting it away for a while. Come back to it some other time.

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U'll  need a good Allen key+mule grips to get the head  bolts out :yes:..clamp allen key  with grips to turn the bolts :good:...b Good if u could post up sum pics once u open it up so we can see what's happened to it :good:

Edited by evssv
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13 minutes ago, Michae1Marsha11 said:

 

You gotta take the piston liner out before the piston will come out.

Usually best to keep the flywheel on. stick a cabletie up the exhaust outlet with the piston at bottom, then turn the flywheel so the piston pushes up on the cabletie, and if all goes well, the liner pops up enough to get some needle nose pliers under the lip and you can gently work the liner up and out, being careful not to squeeze or scatch anything.

You can put nitro fuel tubing on the pliers to help stop any marking ect, or wrap them in electrical tape

After that, put the piston at bottom, and the conrod should fall off the crank, or need very persuasion , then drop it out the top.

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9 minutes ago, Michae1Marsha11 said:

I'm guessing this is what wrong with my engine then. Something to do with sleeve and piston jamming up as I've forced the f*ck out of this sleeve, gone through loads of cable ties. It's ridiculously stuck. 

 

Thicker cableties and use mole grips on the flywheel. Maybe use a hair dryer to warm the engine case up. Careful of any left over fuel though!

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11 minutes ago, Vr5fx said:

 

Thicker cableties and use mole grips on the flywheel. Maybe use a hair dryer to warm the engine case up. Careful of any left over fuel though!

Nah mate, it genuinely shears through any cable tie any thickness any amount of layers.  What engine should I buy to replace this one? Any preferences for this chassis?

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Can I ask, after you had run the engine and it had gotten hot, when you shut it off did you wind the piston to the bottom of the bore or just turn it off and leave it to cool down?

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2 minutes ago, mike1980 said:

Can I ask, after you had run the engine and it had gotten hot, when you shut it off did you wind the piston to the bottom of the bore or just turn it off and leave it to cool down?

Technically just turn it off. It cut out and pull cord got stuck and I couldn't turn the fly wheel so technically just turned it off.

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See I was wondering if the piston was right at the top of its stroke when it was turned off. If it was, as the engine cooled the piston and liner would have become stuck together effectively locking the engine up. I'm sure I had this situation happen on an old TS4N and that's what the problem was.

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Might be what happened.... the piston can move up and down now but when reaching top of the movement it is reeeeaaaally stiff. Sleeve definitely doesn't come apart though which means I can't replace anything which means I need to buy a replacement engine.... sell the car as a rolling chassis or convert to electric. What's my best option?

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I wouldn't right that engine off yet. The reason that it is stiff right at the top of its stroke is due to whats called 'pinch'. The sleeve has a slight taper towards the top which 'pinches' the piston at TDC to create a seal and compression in the combustion chamber. Without 'pinch' the engine would run like a bag of spanners if at all. So if yours is tight at the top that is fine, that is how it is supposed to be.

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It isn't the flywheel that's getting stuck its the piston and sleeve and I'm guessing that your engine is still new if so the tolerances inside are still going to be very tight, even more so when it is cold.  Its always a good idea to pre-heat a nitro engine before trying to start it as this will expand all the metal surfaces and make starting much easier.

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