ADH66 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Done a good few rolls with no damage, problem is me trying to follow the outback up some of the bloody climbs it can do, hoping to try my outlaw tomorrow which i have on 2s castle 3800 with alloy chassis...rear metal drive shaft and alloy motor mount fitted, fingers crossed for half ok weatherTel and me will be out doing much the same Sunday. Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Just don't drop anything on an Outback body Dropped a pair of pliers onto a body shell sitting on the floor next to the workbench and it shattered into about a hundred pieces. Most brittle body shell ever. However apart from that the Outback just keeps on going which surprises me a bit as the construction doesn't look very heavy duty but looks are deceiving as it's actually pretty tough. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Sorry to hear what's happened John, they seem so flexible don't they Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 (edited) It was the Tundra body and had rolled down the rocks often enough with only a few scuffs and scratches to show for it. Probably it was a sharp edge on the pliers that caught the body just wrong. Very surprised when it just exploded into little shards. No big deal though as it wasn't being used anymore since fitting the Ford pickup body. John Edited September 22, 2017 by johninderby 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 jOHN LET ME KNOW HOW YOU FIT IT AND WHERE YOU GOT THE BODY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 The body was easy to fit. Needs shorter body posts at the rear but that's about it and dropping the body in place and marking the position to drill the mounting holes. This is the body. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-1966-ford-f-100-clear-body-1-10/rc-car-products/380477 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Thanks very much John, I have a real thing about pick ups - don't know why, can't get so and so chair in them I think I'll get one of those bodies and some spare rear body posts so I can put my Ranger/Tundra bodies back on, son in law said why don't you get the Ford one as well - dangerous idea planting, but another one with the Ford body now there is an idea !!!!!!1 Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Sounds like a plan. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Just got to work out how to get another box past the wife and persuade son in law to spray the body - going to do it with a rusted finish, rather than the usual clean look Fred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wabom1981 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 2 minutes ago, mamodman said: Just got to work out how to get another box past the wife and persuade son in law to spray the body - going to do it with a rusted finish, rather than the usual clean look Fred I like the sound of that Fred!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 John, just seen a HENG LONG crawler U.S. army truck, 1/16 probably to go with the tanks - just out of curiousity are they any good? so do I Wabom 1981 with the above caveat, this rc is so enjoyable Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryV34 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Latest mod. She slways has rolled over lots but even more now with the roof rack lol. Running 40 weight oil in the shocks which is still a bit hard. On real big steep climbs it's still losing traction on the front. Despite about 200 grams of weight stuck under the bonnet and weights in the wheels. Mind you I have started trying to get it to climb some serious hills. Does anyone know whether the scx10 topples over as frequently? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 (edited) 8 minutes ago, TerryV34 said: She slways has rolled over lots but even more now with the roof rack lol. Hello Terry, Looks good but - can I suggest that the reason it rolls over is that the driver can't see past the spare wheel seriously though I've got two spares on order and was going to put it on the back of the trucks, not heard anything about the scx 10, but my Tundra taking tight bends does lean a lot or even roll over more than the Ranger Edited September 22, 2017 by mamodman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 7 minutes ago, mamodman said: John, just seen a HENG LONG crawler U.S. army truck, 1/16 probably to go with the tanks - just out of curiousity are they any good? so do I Wabom 1981 with the above caveat, this rc is so enjoyable Fred It's not been released yet. Due end of October. Not going to be the best electronics but cheap enough. Hmmmm.......may have to order 1 http://www.hayaltd.co.uk/Heng_Long_Military_Truck_116_Pre_Order/p191100_17829132.aspx John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryV34 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 @mamodman yes the driver keeps hitting things ? I have tried adding weight to the rear and it seems to just stop the front wheels digging in on a climb. I may have added too much weight to the front and now it's too unstable and still won't reach the very top of the steepest climb. I think i may have just found its limits climbing wise anyway. However, it will get up some real steel slopes get near the top and then the front unloads and it's game over. If you just rest your finger very gently on the bonnet it digs in and finishes the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 4 minutes ago, TerryV34 said: ust rest your finger very gently on the bonnet it digs in and finishes the climb. I know it's late but if as you say in quote, could it be that it just needs a fraction i.e. your finger pressure MORE weight on front axle, just an idea ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryV34 Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 @mamodman you could be right. I added lots of weight to the underside of the bonnet and now the tyre on the bonnet. I hadn't thought about weight to the axels. That's why I love rock crawlers. These little mods all make a difference. Plus the mods are pretty much endless. Thanks for the idea. I will try this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Hope it works, for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 8 hours ago, TerryV34 said: @mamodman you could be right. I added lots of weight to the underside of the bonnet and now the tyre on the bonnet. I hadn't thought about weight to the axels. That's why I love rock crawlers. These little mods all make a difference. Plus the mods are pretty much endless. Thanks for the idea. I will try this. Hi Terry, you'd no doubt be best to remove the weights from the underside of the bonnet and spare wheel above, with them being there it only acts as a longer lever helping it lean more. As the shell is sat on posts which run downwards fixed to the chassis - this is where the weight above hinges to. So the more weight leaning on the posts (quite far away - effectively where the posts pierce the shell) as the car leans the cars' centre of gravity has to deal with a greater force...it'll keep increase until tipping point! Ideally I'd add weights to the wheels and axles, just below centre of gravity which would leave it a lot more stable. Have you added weight to inside your 4 wheels? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just rolling Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 they do look cool cool with bits added up top but i want mine to climb like a bugger as when it rolls its gone lol, like a bloody ball, want to get a pickup style shell at some point that fits a stampede as the weight will be even lower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryV34 Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 @t2boats thanks for the info. I will remove the bonnet weights. I have got weights in the wheels. I will try adding weights to the front axel. See how that works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 t2boats that is a very good physics lesson, and very true, I think I've got away with mine because I can't get up the very steep hills, but will remember what you say - by the bye where do you buy the weights for inside the wheels - Ta do not know why when I copy and paste a name the words come out bold, any ideas ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 26 minutes ago, mamodman said: t2boats that is a very good physics lesson, and very true, I think I've got away with mine because I can't get up the very steep hills, but will remember what you say - by the bye where do you buy the weights for inside the wheels - Ta do not know why when I copy and paste a name the words come out bold, any ideas ? Hmm not sure on that one sorry Fred! the weights can be bought through eBay, I just searched for Adhesive Car Wheel Weights and loads popped up! They come on strips so very easy to apply. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mamodman Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 (edited) Thanks, what weight do you put in each wheel? Edited September 23, 2017 by mamodman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wabom1981 Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 (edited) 26 minutes ago, mamodman said: Thanks, what weight do you put in each wheel? The weights I use at work come in 60g strips made up of 5g and 10g alternating. When I did my wheels I found I had to cut the 10g in half as they didn't shape to the wheels curve. I would possibly recommend looking for strips made completely of 5g weights to save a bit of hassle (and swearing) i managed to get 70g per wheel in mine! (Internal beadlock though) Edited September 23, 2017 by Wabom1981 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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