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Himoto Bowie


ROBSTER 1992

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I think you need to consider what overall cost is, not initial cost. 4 hubs 60 quid, 4 shocks 20 quid, heatsink 5 and that's a start. Alloy isn't always better than plastic, for bashing it generally isn't. 

So I should put plastic hubs back on and then the same thing will happen again the plastic parts are very week on my Himoto Bowie but saying that some parts are actually stronger than others I am not surprised that the front hub snapped because I was going quite fast and hit the wheel quite hard on a tree see if I had the alloy ones it wouldn't of happened also I am only going to replace the plastic parts that break with alloy ones not planning of converting the whole car to alloy only when something breaks.

And yes I spent money and got a heatsink but with brushless motors you have to run them the motor does get quite hot.

The most money I have actually spent on it is for the lipo battery packs I got because I got 4 of them for a long run time when I bash.

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4 hours ago, ROBSTER 1992 said:

 

 

Yes I know it's not the best brand in the world but as I said I only wanted a cheap Basher to take out with me when I use my Fg Marder and also when I do upgrade it to alloy hubs I won't need to change it again because alloy is stronger than plastic and can take a lot more abuse.

 

Brand itself is a mixed bag, but people did try to advise you this before you bought it - especially how poor the E10 chassis is.  

 

When you fit the alloy hubs you'll then find impacts that would have broken a ~£2 hub now break a hub carrier.  So you then replace those and find your breaking arms and so on.  See Stretch's answer below.  This will all be exacerbated with the E10 because the plastics are poor.

 

3 hours ago, stretch said:

Plastic flexs alloy does not and generally passes the shock onto the next weakest part. 

 

20 minutes ago, ROBSTER 1992 said:

 

 

So I should put plastic hubs back on and then the same thing will happen again the plastic parts are very week on my Himoto Bowie but saying that some parts are actually stronger than others I am not surprised that the front hub snapped because I was going quite fast and hit the wheel quite hard on a tree see if I had the alloy ones it wouldn't of happened also I am only going to replace the plastic parts that break with alloy ones not planning of converting the whole car to alloy only when something breaks.

 

And yes I spent money and got a heatsink but with brushless motors you have to run them the motor does get quite hot.

 

The most money I have actually spent on it is for the lipo battery packs I got because I got 4 of them for a long run time when I bash.

 

You'll throw good money after bad with this i'm afraid.  Your into buying alloy hubs now for £25, £8 on a heatsink.  What about things like adjustable links to set the geometry up?  Stock tie rods will break soon enough so they'll soon be on the list.  Not long till you've swapped, replaced a fair chunk of it just to address issues it came with.  Rarely is an RC 'perfect' out the box but these have more than there fair share of niggles. The best part of it to be fair is the combo - it's a Hobbywing ESC and a good budget motor.  

 

If it was me, before spending anymore £ i'd strip what's left of it down and flog the parts on eBay - parts prices are stupid so you'll get a fair return.  Then stick the electrics into something better - stronger, more capable and repairable.  

 

 

 

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34 minutes ago, ROBSTER 1992 said:

 

 

So I should put plastic hubs back on and then the same thing will happen again the plastic parts are very week on my Himoto Bowie but saying that some parts are actually stronger than others I am not surprised that the front hub snapped because I was going quite fast and hit the wheel quite hard on a tree see if I had the alloy ones it wouldn't of happened also I am only going to replace the plastic parts that break with alloy ones not planning of converting the whole car to alloy only when something breaks.

 

And yes I spent money and got a heatsink but with brushless motors you have to run them the motor does get quite hot.

 

The most money I have actually spent on it is for the lipo battery packs I got because I got 4 of them for a long run time when I bash.

I find brushless systems run cooler than brushed when running correct gearing, there is no need for a fan.

 

IF those alloy hubs do fit, all you will do is move the weak point to another area of the car...

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1 hour ago, ROBSTER 1992 said:

 

 

So I should put plastic hubs back on and then the same thing will happen again the plastic parts are very week on my Himoto Bowie but saying that some parts are actually stronger than others I am not surprised that the front hub snapped because I was going quite fast and hit the wheel quite hard on a tree see if I had the alloy ones it wouldn't of happened also I am only going to replace the plastic parts that break with alloy ones not planning of converting the whole car to alloy only when something breaks.

 

And yes I spent money and got a heatsink but with brushless motors you have to run them the motor does get quite hot.

 

The most money I have actually spent on it is for the lipo battery packs I got because I got 4 of them for a long run time when I bash.

 

I think the others have explained it nicely, so I don't need to add anything. 

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Rob, I think you need to take stock of what advice everyone has given you instead of going against the grain constantly then getting the hump when someone is actually trying to help. You have bought a pup, simple as. The money you spent on your Himoto Bowie could have gone onto something so much better but you still bought the Himoto Bowie. The Himoto Bowie is just a terrible vehicle. I love the fact that you told us that you have to run a heat sink on a BL motor in your Himoto Bowie because BL motors run hotter..........i had an XTM XT2E on 6s with a motor that was rated at 4s max and rarely run above 40 degrees........explain that one Mr Himoto Bowie.

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Rob, I think you need to take stock of what advice everyone has given you instead of going against the grain constantly then getting the hump when someone is actually trying to help. You have bought a pup, simple as. The money you spent on your Himoto Bowie could have gone onto something so much better but you still bought the Himoto Bowie. The Himoto Bowie is just a terrible vehicle. I love the fact that you told us that you have to run a heat sink on a BL motor in your Himoto Bowie because BL motors run hotter..........i had an XTM XT2E on 6s with a motor that was rated at 4s max and rarely run above 40 degrees........explain that one Mr Himoto Bowie.

Not you again

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Rob, I think you need to take stock of what advice everyone has given you instead of going against the grain constantly then getting the hump when someone is actually trying to help. You have bought a pup, simple as. The money you spent on your Himoto Bowie could have gone onto something so much better but you still bought the Himoto Bowie. The Himoto Bowie is just a terrible vehicle. I love the fact that you told us that you have to run a heat sink on a BL motor in your Himoto Bowie because BL motors run hotter..........i had an XTM XT2E on 6s with a motor that was rated at 4s max and rarely run above 40 degrees........explain that one Mr Himoto Bowie.

Yep I brought the Himoto Bowie yes that's right I asked for advice to see if anyone had one and how do they get on with it i decided to get the Himoto Bowie end off all this talk about it's a toy grade car when it's actually not I know what a toy grade car looks like I have my old nikko car that I had when I was 6years old a toy grade car is one that you buy from Argos and this Himoto Bowie is certainly not one I compare it to my Maverick Strada drift car and looks almost the same as that the way it's been built I think because you guys know it's not the best make in the world you just want to say bad things about it as I said when I first started up this thread I only want a cheap Basher for when I take my Fg Marder out I didn't want to spend X amount on a RC car simples I suppose now you are going to say that my Maverick Strada drift car is a toy grade car now.

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Whilst the Maverick Strada isn't the best, it does at least have (or had) excellent back up and parts supply due to been HPI's baby. The Himoto has well, nothing like that. 

 

To me, you've made a massive mistake buying the Himoto, and wasted your money completely. That said, you've done it now, you appear happy and are too stubborn to take advice so there's no point people replying any more...

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Whilst the Maverick Strada isn't the best, it does at least have (or had) excellent back up and parts supply due to been HPI's baby. The Himoto has well, nothing like that. 

 

To me, you've made a massive mistake buying the Himoto, and wasted your money completely. That said, you've done it now, you appear happy and are too stubborn to take advice so there's no point people replying any more...

How come then I have found loads of people online that sells parts for the Himoto Bowie.

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Hmm. Interesting thread...

 

The Himoto Bowie is certainly not race grade, but I think calling it toy grade is a bit harsh. Personally I'd rate it as budget entry-level hobby-grade.

 

As for the alloy hubs, you might get them to fit with a bit of modification, but I don't see them working as a direct replacement for the stock plastic items. And here's why:

 

Look carefully at the geometry of the plastic ones, particularly the part that sticks out towards the rear of the car - the part that the tierod attaches to. On the stock part, it is offset towards the centerline of the car. On the alloy part, it is pretty much in line with the kingpins. This means that, if you get the alloy hubs to fit your hub carriers, your front wheels will toe out significantly.

 

The stock fixed links would not allow you to correct this, so you'd need to fit longer adjustable ones. This isn't necessarily a bad thing - most people would agree that swapping fixed links for adjustable ones is an upgrade in itself - but it is another expense you'd need to factor in. It may also adversely affect your Ackerman.

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Hmm. Interesting thread...

 

The Himoto Bowie is certainly not race grade, but I think calling it toy grade is a bit harsh. Personally I'd rate it as budget entry-level hobby-grade.

 

As for the alloy hubs, you might get them to fit with a bit of modification, but I don't see them working as a direct replacement for the stock plastic items. And here's why:

 

Look carefully at the geometry of the plastic ones, particularly the part that sticks out towards the rear of the car - the part that the tierod attaches to. On the stock part, it is offset towards the centerline of the car. On the alloy part, it is pretty much in line with the kingpins. This means that, if you get the alloy hubs to fit your hub carriers, your front wheels will toe out significantly.

 

The stock fixed links would not allow you to correct this, so you'd need to fit longer adjustable ones. This isn't necessarily a bad thing - most people would agree that swapping fixed links for adjustable ones is an upgrade in itself - but it is another expense you'd need to factor in. It may also adversely affect your Ackerman.

Thanks at least some one agrees with me yes I think it is an entry level RC Car but it's okay for what I need it for[emoji106].

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As for the alloy vs. plastic debate, there are valid points on both sides.

 

While it is true that swapping out a plastic part for an alloy one is likely to move the breaking point somewhere else, this isnt necessarily a bad thing. If it means that you are no longer breaking expensive and hard-to-replace parts, and are instead breaking cheaper ones that are easier to replace, you have improved the situation, yes?

 

Personally I like sacrificial arms. In my experience, it is easy and quick to replace a broken suspension arm, and most makes have replacements available quite cheaply. I dont know if this is true of the Himoto Bowie, but if it is, it might be worthwhile finding the correct alloy hubs for the car and fitting them, in hopes that next time you break a suspension arm instead.

 

Just don't be tempted to buy alloy suspension arms! Evil, evil things!! :)

 

 

 

 

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Rob, I think you need to take stock of what advice everyone has given you instead of going against the grain constantly then getting the hump when someone is actually trying to help. You have bought a pup, simple as. The money you spent on your Himoto Bowie could have gone onto something so much better but you still bought the Himoto Bowie. The Himoto Bowie is just a terrible vehicle. I love the fact that you told us that you have to run a heat sink on a BL motor in your Himoto Bowie because BL motors run hotter..........i had an XTM XT2E on 6s with a motor that was rated at 4s max and rarely run above 40 degrees........explain that one Mr Himoto Bowie.

What ever you say mr NuttyProffessor

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18 hours ago, capri-boy said:

 

If it was me, before spending anymore £ i'd strip what's left of it down and flog the parts on eBay - parts prices are stupid so you'll get a fair return.  Then stick the electrics into something better - stronger, more capable and repairable.  

 

 

Not a bad comment this ^^

 

I know there is a certain satisfaction in taking a model with a lot of issues and getting it sorted into a strong and reliable runner even though it ends up costing a fair bit. I have done it myself - I bought a CC-01 and then spent a good bit of time and money overcoming it's issues and turning it into a capable trail runner. I could have bought an SCX10 that would have done the same thing out of the box, but I found my approach more satisfying.

 

However there is no shame in changing your course if you want to. Capri-boy makes a fair point about getting a good return should you choose to part the car out on eBay. You'd probably recoup most of your initial outlay, and may even end up with a small profit.

 

Being a dyed-in-the-wool Tamiya supporter, I would consider doing this, and using the money on a Tamiya WT-01. Although a pretty basic truck in stock form, it has good plastics, a wealth of upgrade options and excellent spares availability.

 

That said, I understand if you want to stick with the Bowie. Getting it sorted may be expensive and frustrating at times, but the end result may be quite satisfying. Whether it will be satisfying enough to warrant the time and money, only you can answer...

 

 

Edited by XV Pilot
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Not a bad comment this ^^

 

I know there is a certain satisfaction in taking a model with a lot of issues and getting it sorted into a strong and reliable runner even though it ends up costing a fair bit. I have done it myself - I bought a CC-01 and then spenta good bit of time and money overcoming it's issues and turning it into a capable trail runner. I could have bought an SCX10 that would have done the same thing out of the box, but I found my approach more satisfying.

 

However there is no shame in changing your course if you want to. Capri-boy makes a fair point about getting a good return should you choose to part the car out on eBay. You'd probably recoup most of your initial outlay, and may even end up with a small profit.

 

Being a dyed-in-the-wool Tamiya supporter, I would consider doing this, and using the money on a Tamiya WT-01. Although a pretty basic truck in stock form, it has good plastics, a wealth of upgrade options and excellent spares availability.

 

That said, I understand if you want to stick with the Bowie. Getting it sorted may be expensive and frustrating at times, but the end result may be quite satisfying. Whether it will be satisfying enough to warrant the time and money, only you can answer...

 

 

Thanks for your advice I will see how I get on with the Himoto Bowie who knows perhaps one day I might decide to buy a different RC car that's just a roller and convert the electronics of the Himoto Bowie on to the roller.

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