Hpi rs4 carb help

[Damo88]

So today my hpi rs4 3 evo+ (brand new) and I've started the run in process .

first tank on idle done had to lower the trim a bit as it seemed to high of a idle for run in 

 

so problem is I'm now doing bit of throttle and figure of 8 runs abd when I just let off the throttle the car to free wheel the car continues on driving , it does slow down gradually but not how it should be 

also if I touch the brakes the car cuts off instantly , I have the throttle trim pretty far down just to stop the car from running off on idle 

maybe factory settings wasn't set right ? I've looked in the manual for the settings but it's all jibber Jabber to me as I'm rather new to all this 

thanks

[HellaFlush]

57 minutes ago, Damo88 said:

So today my hpi rs4 3 evo+ (brand new) and I've started the run in process .

first tank on idle done had to lower the trim a bit as it seemed to high of a idle for run in 

 

so problem is I'm now doing bit of throttle and figure of 8 runs abd when I just let off the throttle the car to free wheel the car continues on driving , it does slow down gradually but not how it should be 

also if I touch the brakes the car cuts off instantly , I have the throttle trim pretty far down just to stop the car from running off on idle 

maybe factory settings wasn't set right ? I've looked in the manual for the settings but it's all jibber Jabber to me as I'm rather new to all this 

thanks

 

When the car is just sitting there idling, how much of a gap is there on the carb? (Take the air filter off and you'll see) There should be about a 1mm gap between the throttle slider and carb wall. 

 

You're going to want your HSN (High speed needle) flush against it's brass casing, and the LSN (Low speed needle) also flush. This is the factory break in procedure tune. It will be on the richer side of things, but for the first while of driving that's what you want. 

 

EDIT: http://hpiracing.world/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/115935_vol02_nitro_star_t3.0_engine_with_pullstart_061015.pdf Here is the full instruction manual to that engine.

 

Edited August 31, 2016 by HellaFlush

[atom3624]

Reading the manual is the answer.

I would recommend to re-read the break-in process section, especially the carburettor settings.

Don't have to fire up the engine, but with the radio on - Tx / Rx on and battery connected - check the zero throttle position - it might be holding the throttle open slightly and need setting.

IF you want to check the needles, count the number of turns to 'closed' (DO NOT force it closed as you can damage the needles), then reset to 'factory settings'.

If your motor is not properly broken in, I would ADD at least 1/8 turn more, just for safety or the motor might overheat.

It's actually quite easy with practice.

 

Al.

[Damo88]

Figured out the issue .. Seems hpi employee had installed the carb wrong the idle screw was not in its runner so the idle screw turned but had no effect on the rotation of the carb 

[Damo88]

Hmm the rotor part of the carb still isn't reacting to turns of the idle screw ?

[Damo88]

Scrap that I got it sitting sweet ...brakes and no cut ... Doesn't want to run away on idle and decelerates properly ... Hpi sure didn't have the screw in right at all thankfully I'm a fairly fast learner ... Loving rc cars ✊

thanks lads sorry for the nooby panic 

[atom3624]

Glad you got it sorted.

There was a question earlier by somebody.

When you screw in the idle screw is it opening the throttle slightly - you'll see this with the air filter off?

Not that critical, but just curious.

 

Al.