Brake and Throttle Linkage...

[HSKzz]

I have recently purchased this linkage set for my buggy http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-pro-throttle-brake-linkage-set-black/rc-car-products/30633

 

All I can say is that it's pretty much made out of cheese grade parts lol. Within 10 mins of my car running on a flat grassy field (Not even going fast as still breaking it in) I had problems with the clamp things (Blue things in the picture) coming lose. One to the point that I had lost the whole rod set on the bottom brake set. The others just coming lose so the throttle and brake that was remaining would only be pulled about 2mm. 

 

Rather than buying it again hoping for something to be different. I was thinking of just making something out of lock washers and threaded rod. Just to keep everything in place and no chance of it moving. 

 

Has anyone done this before? (i'm guessing so lol) If so what did you use? M1 threaded rod? M2? Etc...

 

Thanks 

Matthew

[dazp1976]

Could try wrapping some very small elastic bands tight round the blue bits and the bar.

What I would do is (if your eyes are better than mine) is... Once you work out where you want it to fit take it back off and grind a small flat spot on the bar with a dremmel. When you put it back on with threadlock on the set screw the flat spot should stop it sliding off.

Worth a try if it's c**p anyway.

[HSKzz]

1 minute ago, dazp1976 said:

Could try wrapping some very small elastic bands tight round the blue bits and the bar.

What I would do is (if your eyes are better than mine) is... Once you work out where you want it to fit take it back off and grind a small flat spot on the bar with a dremmel. When you put it back on with threadlock on the set screw the flat spot should stop it sliding off.

Worth a try if it's c**p anyway.

 

Yeah I was about to do the whole grinding a flat spot in it. I couldn't be bothered to get the compressor out for the die grinder haha, so I ended up just bending the ends of the rods up right where the blue bits where so they couldn't back off. They just keep catching on things tho :/ 

 

I might just buy some M1 and M2 threaded rod and see what I can do lol, trouble is I can't seem to find nuts that are small enough 

[dazp1976]

3 minutes ago, HSKzz said:

 

Yeah I was about to do the whole grinding a flat spot in it. I couldn't be bothered to get the compressor out for the die grinder haha, so I ended up just bending the ends of the rods up right where the blue bits where so they couldn't back off. They just keep catching on things tho :/ 

 

I might just buy some M1 and M2 threaded rod and see what I can do lol, trouble is I can't seem to find nuts that are small enough 

There's what looks like M1.0 + M2.0 at the bottom of the size list here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-METRIC-HEXAGON-FULL-NUTS-DIN934-M1-TO-M30-WASHERS-BOLTS-/190718484478?var=&hash=item2c67b51ffe:m:mVOwSpyTl6LyYb8unphWXxg

M1.0 ent cheap tho!!!! 

 

M2 here but again those small sizes ent cheap:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M2-M2-5-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-STAINLESS-NYLOC-NYLOCK-LOCK-NUTS-/320901621860?var=&hash=item4ab73a2864:m:m8naY3EffGe6DXrZXBBxk4w

 

I favour the grinding idea, Also some grub screws don't have much of a surface contact area the way they are made like these below.

The indentation of the contact area means there is hardly any surface contact causing it to slip. I found this the case with pinions until I got longer screws and ground the ends down so they were near perfectly flat, made a huge difference and no more slippage. Worth a look.

[ExLimeyBasher]

I use the Cen Racing steel collars GS272 and replace the 3mm grub screw with a short socket head cap screw so the hex is bigger, those 3mm grub screws strip the hex easily. I am only a basher so not worried about the extra weight. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CEN-GS272-Rod-Stopper-4-for-their-GSR-5-0-GST-7-7-Nemesis-7-7-Monster-Trucks-/231389536808

[HSKzz]

38 minutes ago, dazp1976 said:

There's what looks like M1.0 + M2.0 at the bottom of the size list here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-METRIC-HEXAGON-FULL-NUTS-DIN934-M1-TO-M30-WASHERS-BOLTS-/190718484478?var=&hash=item2c67b51ffe:m:mVOwSpyTl6LyYb8unphWXxg

M1.0 ent cheap tho!!!! 

 

M2 here but again those small sizes ent cheap:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M2-M2-5-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-STAINLESS-NYLOC-NYLOCK-LOCK-NUTS-/320901621860?var=&hash=item4ab73a2864:m:m8naY3EffGe6DXrZXBBxk4w

 

I favour the grinding idea, Also some grub screws don't have much of a surface contact area the way they are made like these below.

The indentation of the contact area means there is hardly any surface contact causing it to slip. I found this the case with pinions until I got longer screws and ground the ends down so they were near perfectly flat, made a huge difference and no more slippage. Worth a look.

 

Jesus you weren't kidding £5 for 10 of the little buggers lol. Thanks for finding them haha. I think I'll get the rod before them to make sure I have the right size

 

26 minutes ago, ExLimeyBasher said:

I use the Cen Racing steel collars GS272 and replace the 3mm grub screw with a short socket head cap screw so the hex is bigger, those 3mm grub screws strip the hex easily. I am only a basher so not worried about the extra weight. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CEN-GS272-Rod-Stopper-4-for-their-GSR-5-0-GST-7-7-Nemesis-7-7-Monster-Trucks-/231389536808

Yeah that seems like a good idea, i'll have a look into them a bit more. 

 

I think I am probably going to go down the threaded rod route as It would make adjustment easier if I ever needed to. Plus I think they would hold up over time a bit better.