mini-z-awd Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) looking at your setup again it looks like you have the rear steering setup instead of going in front of the front axle it go`s behing it so you only have the axle upfront and the servo and other stuff go`s the the rear of the axle it was supposed tobe for the ax10 comp crawler it does have a name but i cant think of it right now edit. its bta steering setup check no 13 of this thread http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/threads/ax-10-base-ground-up-build.16783/ Edited June 28, 2015 by mini-z-awd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Zombi Posted June 28, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 28, 2015 After spending ages trying to figure out why I couldn't get this stuff working, Banners revealed it was a BTA kit for the AX10 (much as you said above) and that he forgot to tell me he was just giving it me to try and see if I could get it going. I was under the impression it was tried and tested in his SCX10. Arrgh... BAAAANNNNNNNEEEEERRRRRSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!! So I ditched the BTA link and tried the one that comes stock, but with the high clearance knuckles it's not long enough so I've sacked it all off for now and put the stock knuckles back on. Is it possible to get links that are specifically shaped and lengthened to get max steering out of the high clearance knuckles? Could you point me in the right direction if so? In the end, my little boy got so frustrated at my incompetence that he insisted on taking the command seat and set to. Turns out he made more progress in an hour than I have all week, AND he did some 'fixing' on the Yeti too... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Anyways back to business with a note for anyone wanting to install the AX10 MIP set. If you use the spur cover you'll find the rear shaft rubs against it quite significantly. Easily sorted though, out come the Dremel with a sanding drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 i get all the steering i need with my setup and iam using the stock dog bones and i even had to back the epa off abit as i didnt want to stress the servo out just waiitng on a vid to upload to youtube showing what i mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLeBYIX0VwQ&feature=youtu.be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Are you using these knuckles? http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax30526 And are you using the same length links that I got with my Dingo kit? My long link simply wasn't long enough to connect to the knuckles and have the wheels straight. I'm guessing you got custom links? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Are you using these knuckles? http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax30526 And are you using the same length links that I got with my Dingo kit? My long link simply wasn't long enough to connect to the knuckles and have the wheels straight. I'm guessing you got custom links? yes those knuckles and the stock link on mine it just a green colour but its for the scx10 and i have a little confession i used a nut and spacer to lengthen my link i completely forgot i done that lol the nut on the short link was on there from ages ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Aha i knew there must have been more to it, good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Is this not done yet? Get cracking! :tease: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Haha! Hey I'm a busy guy dontchaknow. Nearly there now though, just figuring out electronics. What have you guys done for you ESC/BEC/RX/Light controller etc? I see folks sometimes use a project box to store things in, I might use one of those to put a few bits in at the rear of the car. Thoughts and pics on this are most welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Just treated the RX and ESC to a CorrosionX bath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_d_fox Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Nice build so far Mark... looks like your finding your way around the SCX10 well Re the steering setup... you can use the high clearance knuckles but as you've found the link you are using wont work as it catches on the axle housing. Ditch the link and make your own out of 4mm threaded bar from B&Q, you can cover it with 6mm aluminium tube (also from B&Q) and make bends in it to clear the axle. I've used that same rod and tubing on all my chassis links and its plenty strong enough for the SCX10 platform. I thought you had the servo horn to knuckle link on wrong to start with, you usually see them bolted up above the steering link but looking at the length of your horn (oo er) i dont think you will be able to install it above. If it steers cleanly without catching then it should be fine. Project boxes make a good home for your electronics, i used one from Maplins on mine when i ran the Silverado lexan shell... i stowed the ESC, winch controller, BEC and Rx in there and still had plenty of room. The only downside was finding something small enough to fit into the chassis / under the shell but big enough to fit everything into and still have breathing space so i didnt need to vent it to prevent heat. With silicon around the holes for the cables it was properly waterproof as well. That was before i put the axial bettery tray across the chassis... the battery plate here was homemade... as you can probably tell ! Paint wise... as you've found, dont use the TS paints on the lexan shell... it just wont last. As above, try looking at the other brands... i use Radshape for my paints, they do the other brands and have a decent range of colours. Not sure if they do the military shades or not though... worst case, try hunting down somewhere online that can mix colours for polycarbonates maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Nice build so far Mark... looks like your finding your way around the SCX10 well Re the steering setup... you can use the high clearance knuckles but as you've found the link you are using wont work as it catches on the axle housing. Ditch the link and make your own out of 4mm threaded bar from B&Q, you can cover it with 6mm aluminium tube (also from B&Q) and make bends in it to clear the axle. I've used that same rod and tubing on all my chassis links and its plenty strong enough for the SCX10 platform. I thought you had the servo horn to knuckle link on wrong to start with, you usually see them bolted up above the steering link but looking at the length of your horn (oo er) i dont think you will be able to install it above. If it steers cleanly without catching then it should be fine. my link does`nt catch anywere on the axle housing and i`ve used the same servo as you the 0231 savox aswell as the 0230 savox with no probs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_d_fox Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 I was referring to the link Mark was using mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 I've scoured high and low for a suitable poly military paint but to no avail. I have read that if you put down a base coat of poly paint as primer on the outer surface, then put your required TS paint on top that it works ok - is that right or just BS? Will it still crack? The more I see of project boxes the more i think that's the way forwards. What are the dimensions of the box? Also, how did you mount the battery tray at the angle onto the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 I was referring to the link Mark was using mate no probs i see what you mean now lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4rri75 Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) I've scoured high and low for a suitable poly military paint but to no avail. I bought my poly off eBay mixed to a specific colour. The trick is finding a firm who will put it into an aerosol for you or buy as small an amount as you can and use an airbrush. Edited June 29, 2015 by h4rri75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Can you remember what they were called?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4rri75 Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Can you remember what they were called?? Rotherham Refinishing Supplies. Call and give them your requirements. I bought a litre of poly base and the match was superb (though the price was a little eye watering). Jawal Paints on eBay (check item number 390602912880) will also mix a can for you, sub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) Ok thanks mate, duly noted. I will probs end up just using the dark green i've already bought and see how it turns out. About the battery tray mod - I did some asking around, and Matt on UKSC pointed me in the direction of his video. I never realised it'd be so easily! As Matt says in the video, I just used my spare set of servo mounts and drilled them out to 3mm and drilled out the two holes in the chassis rails to 3mm also. Once that was done, I attached them to the rails. Next bit, and the trickiest, was to line up the tray with the mounts to where I wanted it and mark out the holes. I just used to making tape to fix it into place, turned it over and used my drill in the mount's holes to gently mark out where i needed to put the proper holes. It left a nice and clear pinpoint on both sides. They then got drilled out fully and I countersunk them, as suggested in the video. I dont have the best gear for countersinking so they were a bit rough, but they'll do the job. Banners will shake his head with horror when he sees them, but I think they're great Once that was done I popped the screws in and tried to fasten a nut onto them, but there was no room due to the shape of the underneath of the mount. So I used a hand file to make it a more square shape and it worked a treat, nut securely attached. And because i used a nut there too, it all felt absolutely rock solid - job done Edited June 29, 2015 by Zombi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) Ok thanks mate, duly noted. I will probs end up just using the dark green i've already bought and see how it turns out. About the battery tray mod - I did some asking around, and Matt on UKSC pointed me in the direction of his video. I never realised it'd be so easily! As Matt says in the video, I just used my spare set of servo mounts and drilled them out to 3mm and drilled out the two holes in the chassis rails to 3mm also. Once that was done, I attached them to the rails. Next bit, and the trickiest, was to line up the tray with the mounts to where I wanted it and mark out the holes. I just used to making tape to fix it into place, turned it over and used my drill in the mount's holes to gently mark out where i needed to put the proper holes. It left a nice and clear pinpoint on both sides. They then got drilled out fully and I countersunk them, as suggested in the video. I dont have the best gear for countersinking so they were a bit rough, but they'll do the job. Banners will shake his head with horror when he sees them, but I think they're great Once that was done I popped the screws in and tried to fasten a nut onto them, but there was no room due to the shape of the underneath of the mount. So I used a hand file to make it a more square shape and it worked a treat, nut securely attached. And because i used a nut there too, it all felt absolutely rock solid - job done looking good Edited June 30, 2015 by mini-z-awd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Tip for counter sinking is to drill the last bit very slowly to avoid chatter (and so the funny shaped hole). On a pillar drill you can cut the power as you reach depth and let the momentum finish the cut, or on a posh one use the clutch. A hand drill might let you do similar if it doesn't have an brake. However..... looks good as is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 I also carried out that battery tray mod before getting the Jevne Racing Ultra plate which I'm selling now as moving to a different set-up very shortly, just gathering parts. My OCD is kicking in with the Axial logo being upside down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 I got all my electrics done today and it all worked perfect. BUT... I got so much juddering on the car when it was moving that it was unusable. I think I've narrowed it down to the angle at which the axles are sitting, it's causing the drive shafts to be too steep and this is putting pressure on the pinion, which is then in turn binding with the ring gear. Have any of you guys had similar at all? I can't believe it's doing this straight out of the box. First I tried removing the MIPs as I thought it was those. Then the beef tubes, but nope. So I'm pretty sure it's the geometry at the axle, as when I remove the link on the truss above the axle so i can change the angle on-the-fly, I can move it such that the horrendous juddering goes away. I wonder if when I was amending the axle to accommodate the beef tubes I took too much off and now the bearings don't sit flush, because it certainly gets really bad when the unis are in. FAIL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 Just did a further test and its fine without the wheel and shaft in there, maybe suggesting the bearing is supporting the shaft's weight. Sod this it's too hot - bed time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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