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[another] Hyper 7 brushless conversion


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I have hyper 8 mounts in both of mine. They both needed to be shimmed with some washers but they have never given any trouble. Hope you get it finished soon.

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I know have the correct mount from capri-boy, the diff oils and I have ordered the pinions [19T & 17T for now] and lipo straps.

 

Tonight will be spent building the diffs and chassis and planning the ESC & RX home :)

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So renewed by the correct motor mount I cracked on last night.

 

First the front diff was degreased then oiled then set aside:

 

2D090B3E-3433-4F63-B113-7E83E9F1C326_zps

 

I then added the side plates and mounted the motor:

 

F6302D21-C991-4728-8848-C441DD024CB4_zps

 

Then I slapped the front on:

 

FB4F9E5C-E9F5-4EC6-B9DC-DF173EFB2A25_zps

 

And cut up the servo top plate [i couldn't bring myself to cut up the carbon one]:

 

1E67BC5B-10E5-4EAC-8DFC-30EF8EFEA0DC_zps

 

And this is now she stands, it's now all down to the ESC placement really so a couple of options:

 

 

The first is atop the centre diff which would be great for airflow, not so great for protection:

 

F0159025-7C41-4104-81B5-F42AA470F102_zps

 

A06287BC-5C98-4559-90D1-08B44DB3918D_zps

 

So it will probably end up in the normal position:

 

2B13EFF6-07FE-4701-90D4-270382EB82AC_zps

 

 

 

One question arose from last night though is the motor wiring, I have red, black and white on the motor and red, yellow and blue posts on the ESC ....

 

9E06E9F2-CAFF-4ACA-AF16-070B83B41964_zps

 

Any idea's how to connect the black & white?

Edited by h4rri75
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If running sensorless it doesn't matter what order you connect the 3 wires - at worst if it's wrong the motor will spin in the wrong direction, which can then be sorted by reversing it in the settings (either program box or on the esc if it allows you) / swapping any two of the 3 wires.  Most of us use 'fly leads' off the esc with female bullets to connect the motor too, though direct wiring is neater (though makes removing the engine / esc that much more work).

 

 

As is if you look at the motor from the rear, with red being the middle (B) then the left wire is usually (A).

 

Your esc manual is here:

 

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uploads/53104247X53414X36.pdf

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Fantastic thanks.

 

I was hoping for a direct connection but I may use short fly leads for now. I don't like cutting cables as this can impact the warranty but I am sure I read that the Castle motor allows the cables to be shortened.

 

Hopefully tonight I can start fitting the ESC, building a battery tray and wiring the motor etc but the latter is dependent on delivery of the required bullets :)

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Fantastic thanks.

 

I was hoping for a direct connection but I may use short fly leads for now. I don't like cutting cables as this can impact the warranty but I am sure I read that the Castle motor allows the cables to be shortened.

 

Hopefully tonight I can start fitting the ESC, building a battery tray and wiring the motor etc but the latter is dependent on delivery of the required bullets :)

 

Pretty sure your right re shortening the leads on castle stuff - they might get 'ar$3y' if you uses smaller bullets, idk, but then again if I'd done that I'd just remove the bullets to send it for service. 

 

Conversion is looking good - should be a little speed demon once done.

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I'd get a losi 8ight tray as there's a nice esc mount onto it so it's nice n tidy an they take a 6s brick if need b...and they use 3 straps and they fit nicely in hyper

 

 

Ahh so that's what the bit on the end is for ;)

 

Pretty sure your right re shortening the leads on castle stuff - they might get 'ar$3y' if you uses smaller bullets, idk, but then again if I'd done that I'd just remove the bullets to send it for service. 

 

Conversion is looking good - should be a little speed demon once done.

 

 

Thanks :)

Edited by h4rri75
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I used existing holes as it seemed to fit better under the shell - marked up enough width for the xerun 150a and trimmed the rest off with disc cutting tool on the dremel.  

 

Funnily enough on that one pic above the mounts we're a right swine to line up - ended up partially screwing them in then tightening bit by bit - I'm sure it's distorted them a little but seems perfectly strong and secure, and the tray itself is still square. 

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I used existing holes as it seemed to fit better under the shell - marked up enough width for the xerun 150a and trimmed the rest off with disc cutting tool on the dremel.

Funnily enough on that one pic above the mounts we're a right swine to line up - ended up partially screwing them in then tightening bit by bit - I'm sure it's distorted them a little but seems perfectly strong and secure, and the tray itself is still square. [/qquote]

i use a nut n blot on the little L bit on the end...u can it in my 1st pic. ...

Edited by evssv
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Wired the ESC and the fly leads last night. No picture as it's not that exciting.

 

Hoping the battery tray arrives today then I can crack on with the final bits of the build.

 

I always seem to be waiting on parts :mellow:

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Wired the ESC and the fly leads last night. No picture as it's not that exciting.

 

Hoping the battery tray arrives today then I can crack on with the final bits of the build.

 

I always seem to be waiting on parts :mellow:

 

Feel your pain bud

 

My Hyper is currently in pieces waiting for a whole list of bits from a new wheels to mfp mount...... hoping bits start arriving just so I can start putting her back together

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Feel your pain bud

 

My Hyper is currently in pieces waiting for a whole list of bits from a new wheels to mfp mount...... hoping bits start arriving just so I can start putting her back together

 

 

MFP isn't making new mounts until the July :(

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Yeah annoyingly :tease:

 

I would of nicked Capri-boys spare but you beat me to it

 

 

Buy my HongNor one and adapt it ;) Only needs a couple of washers :whistling:

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