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Can you guess what it's going to be?


andyknight

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So this is what the profile looks like with everything fitted.

 

 
I could do with bringing the shell height down a bit as the front arch gaps are massive but if i do that then the rear arches don't clear on full suspension compression.  At the moment they have a faint rub right on the outer edge of the tyre wall on max compression so reducing the height any more is going to make this worse.
 
I could trim the rear arches but I am extremely clumsy when it comes to cutting shells so it would turn it to a right mess.
Edited by andyknight
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That looks great Andy, you got any lights fitted to the front?

 

Are you still using the buggy front wheels? Maybe move to putting rear tires on the front till help fill the arches a bit more?

 

I have proline desparado's all round (fronts) with trencher tyres.  I reckon the issue is (as pointed out by Gary) I still have the axle extenders on which come as standard with the KM002C.  I'm trawling ebay now for the standard versions which also have the front screw fittings rather than e-clip.

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I have proline desparado's all round (fronts) with trencher tyres.  I reckon the issue is (as pointed out by Gary) I still have the axle extenders on which come as standard with the KM002C.  I'm trawling ebay now for the standard versions which also have the front screw fittings rather than e-clip.

 

http://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/normal-axle-utilized-screw-a024.html

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Replaced the front and rear top rose joints with these little things from RCModelz.

 

 
 
The rear threaded bars were too large for the standard size hole in the rear upper arms as they were meant for a different type of alloy arms so I had to re-drill and re-tap the holes in the arms to an M8 size, problem solved ;-)
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So this is what the profile looks like with everything fitted.

 

 

I could do with bringing the shell height down a bit as the front arch gaps are massive but if i do that then the rear arches don't clear on full suspension compression.  At the moment they have a faint rub right on the outer edge of the tyre wall on max compression so reducing the height any more is going to make this worse.

 

I could trim the rear arches but I am extremely clumsy when it comes to cutting shells so it would turn it to a right mess.

I think you should leave it just like you have it there matey, purfect for jumping pal, no tyre rub on the shell like that, that's for sure ;)

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Replaced the front and rear top rose joints with these little things from RCModelz.

 

 

 

The rear threaded bars were too large for the standard size hole in the rear upper arms as they were meant for a different type of alloy arms so I had to re-drill and re-tap the holes in the arms to an M8 size, problem solved ;-)

Good job you've got them meaty krakens on then kid, I wouldnt like to drill the standed stock arm out to 8mm it woukd be close hey!

Loving it thou kidda looking sweat! ;)

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Good job you've got them meaty krakens on then kid, I wouldnt like to drill the standed stock arm out to 8mm it woukd be close hey!

Loving it thou kidda looking sweat! ;)

Hey took you a while before you commented and there was me thinking you live in here lol

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Picked up some pitbull inner wells from carpmart the other day.  thought they were going to be the ones that fit on the  team chase cage but as it turned out they were the standard 5t versions.  no problems, had them anyway, cheers mate!

 

The rears work on the 5sc shell with a tiny bit of rubber trimming but the fronts don't, not fussed though.  also got some pitbull edging from abbots so wacked that on as well.

 

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/33331-win-20150508-161456/

 

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/33332-win-20150508-161532/

Edited by andyknight
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You been out with your motor lately pal?

No to busy sorting out the site.

Picked up some pitbull inner wells from carpmart the other day. thought they were going to be the ones that fit on the team chase cage but as it turned out they were the standard 5t versions. no problems, had them anyway, cheers mate!

The rears work on the 5sc shell with a tiny bit of rubber trimming but the fronts don't, not fussed though. also got some pitbull edging from abbots so wacked that on as well.

Looking good

Edited by John_RCModelz
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  • 2 weeks later...

So took the old girl out for a real bashing today and had a few annoying failures.  Firstly i had 2 carbon steel hub bolts give up on me (I use these instead of the standard hub pins as they come out alot), one resulting in my rear wheel over taking me on the track.  Then the steering servo turnbuckle popped off the servo saver after carpmart rammed me (accident so he says, likely story) and I stripped the thread in the servo saver re-attaching everything.

I think I also collected a whole fields worth of grass in the chassis judging by what my garden table has on it now.

 

So filter foams are all now washed and dried, new bolts, ball joints and diff oil ordered ready for the diff strip and gearbox replacement next week along with fixing the servo saver.

 

All in all though, cracking day!

 

Oh and matt 5SC shell is trashed, paintwork well and truly scuffed on every panel after multiple flips and body rolls.  Next shell won't be a matt one!

Edited by andyknight
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Tonight I began the tedious process of pulling the gearbox out to change the diff oil and gearbox case.  I've got this far
 

 

So first question is how much gear grease do I put in the box and where do I put it?  just the gears or bearings as well?  old box had it everywhere but I cant work out whether that's just how it migrated around the gearbox or whether everything was coated including the bearings.

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You want plenty of good quality grease, you don't really need to go overboard on the bearings.

You do want a nice coating on the gears though, don't pack the box full of it, but a nice coating on all the gears should see you right.

It will pretty soon get spread around good anyway :)

Edited by Oh How Original
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Diff re-assembled and gearbox back in the car.  what a ball ache to pull the gearbox out, so many parts to remove.  also took the opportunity to fix a loose steering servo arm and prep a new pull start with mesh as the current one is almost worn out.
 

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/33595-imag0096/

 

Edited by andyknight
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Some good bashing today with carpmart and the guys.  yet again I've come away with a broken car (those losi 5ive guys race rough lol).  the damage list is as follows.

 

Broken front bumper on one side

Split shell in 3 places

Front wheel that over took me at the end of the start/finish straight (thankfully just un-did itself as they're bolt modded axles)

Broken IRP v2 turnbuckle (this is the one I'm annoyed at, email already sent to IRP)

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