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Trophy truggy nitro to electric conversion!


savageking

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Okay, so, I had enough of the Nitro. been in nitro for a few years and finaly had enough. so, brushless it was. doing this conversion with the battery and charger was cheaper than buying the model without any batterys or charger. and is fun. so worth doing. I havent got any pictures of the procces, but i do have what i am left with.

First, strip out all the nitro. clean and get ready to mount new stuff up. remeove the center diff (now would be a good time to shim if required), remove all the old brake stuff, then add the trophy truggy flux mount #101674, this will need washers underneth to level it out. I have loads of screws ect so i had no issue with finding any mechined screws, you cant use the stock so you may have to go to your hobbyshop or your nearyest B and Q, and use loketite) But you will ahve to cut your vero place down so you have the cleance for the mount. just use a hacksaw and a file will be good enough.

Then it was a case of mounting the batery tray ( i use dthe hpi one, but you can uise what you like.) there isnt much room between the spur and battery box, but it will clear. very close though. I just strilled 3 new holes, and used bolts, wahsers and a nut. no poroblem. it isnt going to move. again, use some loketite. (if you dont want any screws poking from the bottom you can contersink some bolt heads and have the nut facing the battery, but it will be differecult to cut the bolts down like i had to do so it doesnt puncture the battery.) i used one exciting nitro mount hole.

Mount the motor, add the pinion (Locktite) and mount your esc at the back, i used servo take. it doenst moove a mm. i mounted my reciver up top. velcro and a zip tie, again, solid and wont move. And yu now have a trophy truggy flux which cost less than the model new!
Im using a 2000kv Xerun hobbywing motor and the Quicrun 150amp ESC. i also hav ethe hex conversion done. just so the truck can handle the power. I will post pictures shortly.

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I hope so. I took my nitro out to Yarmouth and the carb blocked up. that was the last straw, i cant take nitros anywhere without them going wrong. also the clutch keept sticking and jamming because the flywheel nut kept coming loose, even after using locktite, and really cranking it down. had any problems with busted diffs or anything with yours? my truggy is 6s compatiable.

Edited by savageking
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I hope so. I took my nitro out to Yarmouth and the carb blocked up. that was the last straw, i cant take nitros anywhere without them going wrong. also the clutch keept sticking and jamming because the flywheel nut kept coming loose, even after using locktite, and really cranking it down. had any problems with busted diffs or anything with yours? my truggy is 6s compatiable.

the diff lid came lose on my mt4g3 rear diff.....which I run quite a lot on 6s....my converted hyper has been sweet...again run 6s quite a lot in this also...no issues. ..haven't really used my hyper st much yet...but that seems fine the few times I have run it. ..6s... Edited by evssv
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the diff lid came lose on my mt4g3 rear diff.....which I run quite a lot on 6s....my converted hyper has been sweet...again run 6s quite a lot in this also...no issues. ..haven't really used my hyper st much yet...but that seems fine the few times I have run it. ..6s...

 I plan to run 4s mostly.

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I would probably be quite careful with those screws sticking out of the bottom as they are....if they just happen to catch something at speed then you may have a very wonky truggy! - personally I would just used countersunk screws and countersink them properly. I also recommend that you get the side guards to offer a little better protection to the batteries.

 

There were a few who I used to bash with which had the Trophy truggy, they had issues with the front and rear diffs and also had alot of issues with the front hubs either ripping screws out or breaking.

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I would probably be quite careful with those screws sticking out of the bottom as they are....if they just happen to catch something at speed then you may have a very wonky truggy! - personally I would just used countersunk screws and countersink them properly. I also recommend that you get the side guards to offer a little better protection to the batteries.

 

There were a few who I used to bash with which had the Trophy truggy, they had issues with the front and rear diffs and also had alot of issues with the front hubs either ripping screws out or breaking.

The hub issue i did have, the stock hubs are useless, i plan to get the bullet aliminum ones from hpi soon to solve that, and i run on mostly grass, and soft serfices, so i dont have to much worry. if they do prove to be an issue, i will countersing some screws in, and when i find some contersunk screws for the diff/motor mount i will be useing them. and regarding the gards, again, i will see how things go. may get them eventurly though.

Edited by savageking
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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, so, I had enough of the Nitro. been in nitro for a few years and finaly had enough. so, brushless it was. doing this conversion with the battery and charger was cheaper than buying the model without any batterys or charger. and is fun. so worth doing. I havent got any pictures of the procces, but i do have what i am left with.

First, strip out all the nitro. clean and get ready to mount new stuff up. remeove the center diff (now would be a good time to shim if required), remove all the old brake stuff, then add the trophy truggy flux mount #101674, this will need washers underneth to level it out. I have loads of screws ect so i had no issue with finding any mechined screws, you cant use the stock so you may have to go to your hobbyshop or your nearyest B and Q, and use loketite) But you will ahve to cut your vero place down so you have the cleance for the mount. just use a hacksaw and a file will be good enough.

Then it was a case of mounting the batery tray ( i use dthe hpi one, but you can uise what you like.) there isnt much room between the spur and battery box, but it will clear. very close though. I just strilled 3 new holes, and used bolts, wahsers and a nut. no poroblem. it isnt going to move. again, use some loketite. (if you dont want any screws poking from the bottom you can contersink some bolt heads and have the nut facing the battery, but it will be differecult to cut the bolts down like i had to do so it doesnt puncture the battery.) i used one exciting nitro mount hole.

Mount the motor, add the pinion (Locktite) and mount your esc at the back, i used servo take. it doenst moove a mm. i mounted my reciver up top. velcro and a zip tie, again, solid and wont move. And yu now have a trophy truggy flux which cost less than the model new!

Im using a 2000kv Xerun hobbywing motor and the Quicrun 150amp ESC. i also hav ethe hex conversion done. just so the truck can handle the power. I will post pictures shortly.

Approximately how much does it cost to convert it. I am wondering if it's more cost effective to sell the Nitro and just buy the Flux.

 

Thanks.

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