Vr5fx Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 lol adjust the bed and get something printed for calibration. nip over to thingyverse -solidworks site and find a wing nut. print said wingnut 6 times ( two for spares ) Haha, and I'm like.... "I'll order some off Ebay in a few days".... I'll have a go tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 just got home Vr5fx , the cura compatible is cura 15.04. you wont be able to print fine enough to do the wingnuts im afraid but a little tip once you get the nuts put a little medium threadlock on the bolts and this will prevent the nuts from moving once the bed is level.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Hmmm, okay! So the glass plate is being delivered today with the clips. Now, in Cura, our machine isn't listed. So I chose the Prusa Mendel I3, changed the size of the filament to 1.75mm, and the bed size to 200mm all round (a little short of what it offers) I also changed the temp of the nozzle and hot plate for PLA. What temperatures do you use? Just so I have a rough idea where to start. So my next step will be to re-level the bed with the glass, and do the "paper" test all round. Get the filament loaded and do a test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 not 100% sure but around 190-210 for hotend and around 60-90 on the bed Baorevo will be able to give you better hints on heat. the glass sheet, glass sheets are made by pouring molten glass upon liquid tin metal. so re-leveling should be fairly minimal if any at all. one part will be the hotend this may need adjusting as your adding thickness to the bed top. this is from the glass thickness , but you should find the bed the same as it was when first set level. not much changes just the high of the hotend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Just got up sorry i didnt get back to you earlier .... for the bed temp 50 is fine as you dont really need to heat much with pla and for the extruder temp 210 is what i get the best results with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I've done my first print. I grabbed a hollow calibration cube from thingiverse. Here she is! Pretty pleased if I'm honest! Woot! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) thats looking awesome buddy am loading Cura on my notebook and trying to get that website to work. kinda miffed i am getting warnings for SSL certs not matching , thats why it wont let me buy anything. are there other sites like that one can use ? Oh and i have a full folder of halo 4 helmet files ready for printing ( gonna see if they fit a smaller bed first in cura(ie the tiny bot on hobbyking) Edited September 17, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 now thats what i call a great print !!!!!!!!!!!!! When you read how many horror stories about getting a first print to work , im stoked for you !!!! looks like your in the 3d printing business 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Just doing my first ABS prints before going to work , some parts for the dishwasher :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) I'm now printing a N64 logo. I need to sort something out the filament, as it isn't taking from the spool. (it doesn't roll smoothly) How do you change the filament? And how bad are the fumes with ABS? Edited September 17, 2015 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderwolf Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I've done my first print. I grabbed a hollow calibration cube from thingiverse. Here she is! Pretty pleased if I'm honest! Woot! This post annoys me very much. it took ages to get the turnigy to print something like that and its still not doing it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I'm now printing a N64 logo. I need to sort something out the filament, as it isn't taking from the spool. (it doesn't roll smoothly) How do you change the filament? And how bad are the fumes with ABS? There will be a change filament utility on the printer. With ABS I wouldn't even call them fumes. No big deal. Have a window open for some fresh air and that should be enough. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) well i have the bang upto date Cura running on a 1.5ghz atom core notebook pc lol its a little laggy moving models around but those prusa i3 with the 210 beds could print out the halo 4 mask stl's without any need to rescale. ( search thingiverse for halo helmet and you wnat the red verson for medium size kiddies - or the small version) another testing model for you guys would be the pink panther woman another note still trawling to find a differnet site without security issues popping up. Edit: and i found an egg cup, a super awesome egg cup in the shape of a stormtrooper what an awesome find for a starwars geek head lol, i gotta have me a starwars egg cup for my dippy egg and dunkers Edited September 17, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Changing filament heat the hotend to 170 unscrew the bolt about 1cm on top of the charger (next to the filement entry) and push the bolt down thin pull the filement out (only when the hotend is at 170) push the new filement in and push so it e trudes this is fiddely to get through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Second print and I encountered a small issue. The nozzle when transferring from corner to corner was catching on the edge, I'm not sure if this was because the print lifted slightly on that corner. Still pleased though. Already printing a cam holder for a friend lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Overhangs are d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 thats a little bit of an error somewhere, but nothing you cannot clean up. tools are good here, so a rasp and some files. dont go made with the files slow and easy wanna remove the plastic not remelt it with friction. sandpaper go with the good old nail file boards . you will find your learn to add support on some models and others dont need it. you will also learn that some models print better when they are flipped upside down and the likes your constantly looking to create/have less overhangs but also less support printed. and that means less final touching up work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Well I've done a few prints that I'm happy with. The cam mount looks good, a few rough edges, but totally acceptable. Now printing a spool adapter, as my spool is dragging in it's current state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Been watching this thread. Very tempted to hit the buy button... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) freaking headache the guys purchased without no hassle, i go click buy it button and my browser explodes with warnings about un secure connection and its not advised to give detail to site happens with IE - chrome and opera Edited September 17, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Well I've done a few prints that I'm happy with. The cam mount looks good, a few rough edges, but totally acceptable. Now printing a spool adapter, as my spool is dragging in it's current state. I was going to suggest the spool adapters ..... forgot Y ou should print a set for the 2 spools so y ou dont have to swap them out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 freaking headache the guys purchased without no hassle, i go click buy it button and my browser explodes with warnings about un secure connection and its not advised to give detail to site happens with IE - chrome and opera Its strange !!!!!! Its hugely popular site with a very strong reputation Ive been using aliexpress for a few years now. Never has a problem, i use chrome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlton Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) been looking one aliexpress and there are several printers from different suppliers that claim to be Reprap Prusa i3 DIY are they all the same on from a different seller or do you have to be careful that some are not the same as the one being discussed here http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Full-Acylic-Upgraded-Prusa-i3-3d-Printer-DIY-kit-P802-High-Precision-Reprap-Bowden-extruder-single/32340184418.html?spm=2114.031010208.3.113.hFiXOZ&ws_ab_test=201526_4,201527_2_71_72_73_74_75,201409_2 and http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Upgraded-Quality-High-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-P802-with-2-Rolls/32339412713.html?spm=2114.031010208.3.139.hFiXOZ&ws_ab_test=201526_4,201527_2_71_72_73_74_75,201409_2 and http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-High-Quality-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-with-2-Roll-Filament/32424257787.html?spm=2114.031010208.3.104.hFiXOZ&ws_ab_test=201526_4,201527_2_71_72_73_74_75,201409_2 for example. Edited September 18, 2015 by Carlton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Most of the prusa i3 designs are different seeing as theres no copyright so there really is no "genuine" reprap on the chinese sites after its a little hit and miss... i have this one and its been very good http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Factory-High-Quality-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-with-2-Rolls-Filament/32357171936.html?spm=2114.031010208.0.673.7roRhZ thay are not all the same no Edited September 18, 2015 by baorevo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 I have the same as Baorevo. I had my first issue with it today. 2 fails on the same print. 30 minutes of fixing and testing we are back in action. Spool adapters are working and in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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