philbr Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 I added a foam insert into the bumber brace today as I thought it collapsed a little too easy. Then I set about waterproofing my new servo. corrosionx and marine grease and a coat of plasti dip on top. it is a Savox SB-2270S with an axial 25t horn just like zombi's 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Close up of prop and battery bumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I added a foam insert into the bumber brace today as I thought it collapsed a little too easy. Then I set about waterproofing my new servo. corrosionx and marine grease and a coat of plasti dip on top. it is a Savox SB-2270S with an axial 25t horn just like zombi's Blimey belt and braces on the servo lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 yes but now I need to order a metal receiver box cover and drive shaft. damm it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 yes but now I need to order a metal receiver box cover and drive shaft. damm it Hahaha! To be honest, at 10 quid that drive shaft is a must. If that was available before i had my MIP shaft i'd have swooped in right away to give it a bash. It'll be interesting to see what you make of it, Shaun. Please do feed back once you've put it through its paces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Hahaha! To be honest, at 10 quid that drive shaft is a must. If that was available before i had my MIP shaft i'd have swooped in right away to give it a bash. It'll be interesting to see what you make of it, Shaun. Please do feed back once you've put it through its paces. Will do but it probably won't be for a while sorting mot and service on my motorhome and 4x4 this week so all a bit hectic were going to sufolk over easter so should get some run time then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) yh mate ive had problems with the kit turnbuckles on the from ,on the first outing withing 5 minutes i broke it .i want to get the vanquish set from amain for $20 but the postage is gonna be very expensive I've found that postage from Amain and RPP are more than reasonable, especially on small items like the front links. Edited March 17, 2015 by Zombi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) well after only one very short beach bash my front bearings are a rust mess can I buy individual bearings or do I have to but a complete set I also added a t bone front bumper/skip plate http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351316868851?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Edited March 19, 2015 by philbr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Salt water is not your friend, if you don't look after your steel bits, they're going to rust really quick on you. You don't need to buy a complete set, but in the long run it'll work out cheaper, and all the sets consist of is two sizes of bearing. Here are the two types I buy which I always get from RCBearings.co.uk or their eBay shop (postage is free then). They're not cheap but they're well shielded, however you can buy similar somewhat cheaper options from them but the quality is naturally lower. 10x15 bearing (larger ones for the inner knuckle and diff ring gears) 5x11 bearing (for everywhere else except the steering posts, which as stock aren't bearings anyways, just plastic spacers) And here is the set you can get from them Yeti full bearing set Enjoy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 the kit has metal steering posts with bearings included Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Well that's good - look in the manual for their sizes then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) Well that's good - look in the manual for their sizes then.it was only the bearings in the front hubs that were affected. that is why I did not want a full set. I have orderd the ones from yor link in the previous post. thanks for the help Edited March 19, 2015 by philbr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 NP. Remember that no bearings will last forever though, so I'd also get yourself a tube of the 10x15s too so you have them to hand. You never know when you'll need to swap a bearing out, then can just randomly blow on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 well I still seem to have alot of problems rolling my yeti. Is this all down to the driver (ie me) how do I improve this.is there anything I can do to the model to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Sounds like a combination of driving style, terrain and tyre/shock setup. Describe the instances when you've roll it - how fast are you going, what were you doing, and on what sort of terrain. More info required...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) its on higher speed runs. as the car bounces up from rough ground it can change direction an as it lands it rolls. It may be me over compensating for the change of direction or it may be the model landing slightly sideways to its direction of travel im not sureI can understand it rolling in turns that is just turning to sharp for the speed Edited March 20, 2015 by philbr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunm Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 its on higher speed runs. as the car bounces up from rough ground it can change direction an as it lands it rolls. It may be me over compensating for the change of direction or it may br the model landing slightly sideways to its direction of travel im noy sure I can understand it rolling in turns that is just turning to sharp for the speed Sounds like you may be over compensating as you say basically one front corner is compressing more than the other and on rebound is unballancing the car in adition to over stearing tesults in a roll, you could try upping the oil weight in the front shocks if its standard then its 30cwt go up to 40cwt thicker oil will slow down the damping reaction also change the rear to 30cwt it does help i changed it on zombies recomendation it does work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Terrain? Sounds like you need to get used to driving it for the most part. And if it's bouncing too much then you'll need to tune your suspension & tyres to cope with it. But remember that no suspension setup will be a catch-all. Mine for example is set up for crawling, and when i race my mates i can clearly see that a stiffer setup would make it handle much better at speed. Given what you said above, the other thing to consider here is the servo saver which lends itself to sloppy steering. As you land after the bounces, the wheels probs get caught up for a moment and the saver kicks in allowing the wheels to turn even though you don't want it to. It can cause havoc with handling. That's why I locked mine out to stop that foolishness from happening. But bear in mind when you do that, you run a higher risk of damaging your bellcrank. I've destroyed 2 now as you'll have seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) :thumbsup:well more practice required but now you mention it there is a lot of play in the steering due to the servo saver but I will leave it as is for now if I change the front diff oil to 500000 wt is this going to make things worse for me? Edited March 20, 2015 by philbr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Worse? Probably not. The main benefit for doing that is helping with crawling and scaling slippery/loose surface inclines, as it simulates having limited slip control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 I got some new grp parts today from asiatees some I ordered in gun metal grey but they just look silver to me. I am a little disappointed with the colour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Pics or they don't exist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32808-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32807-/ upper trailing arms and front knuckle arm. they look very silver I wish I ordered a different colour now Edited March 20, 2015 by philbr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 You're right, silver. I'm interested to hear more about the knuckles once you've run them for a while. I'd never choose them over my VP knuckles, but the 3 optional connection points on the arm intrigues me. And more importantly how much clearance those arms would have on the inside of the wheels. I'm guessing you don't have the VP Methods with 1.250 inch cans though, so I'll continue to wonder on that one methinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbr Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 You're right, silver. I'm interested to hear more about the knuckles once you've run them for a while. I'd never choose them over my VP knuckles, but the 3 optional connection points on the arm intrigues me. And more importantly how much clearance those arms would have on the inside of the wheels. I'm guessing you don't have the VP Methods with 1.250 inch cans though, so I'll continue to wonder on that one methinks. I still have the stock wheels. the knuckles are the same dimentions as the stock plastic ones apart from the arm thickness so wheel clearance will be the same. the arm is a little thinner than the plastic and this allowed me to add a lock nut to the bottom of the screw as one worked itself out on the first run. I dont know why the three holes they are so close together it does not make a difference what one you use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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