NITO Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) Funny you should bring that up, no it doesn't have extra towers but there are holes there that could be used; But, I meant to add to this thread, in order for that to work, you would need to modify the steering. Currently the steering arm on the offside front would get in the way. I have seen people mount the servo up front and do away with the extended steering rod but it would involve a bit of messing around. I don't think I'll be exploring that option. Thank you for the comments on the thread and build so far. One other thing to add, I almost got to the end of the build with the supplied threadlock. I'm going to buy another pot Edited January 9, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 You tube video of transmission shifting. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Very smoooooooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) Bodyshell placed on last night. The two halves are obviously not screwed together yet. I've part sanded down some of the flash lines, I'll take some close ups of it tonight. I was a little worried about the christmas tree bits attached to the bodyshell at the windscreen and on/off switch on the rear bed but it's come out great. used side cutters, then modelling knife then some 800 grit paper. Used the 800 grit on the flash lines on the bonnet edges, I've left some raised deliberately to take a picture of it tonight. There are quite a few items on the body shell instructions that need glue, so I'll be ordering some of that very soon. Planning to order the following into 'stock'! ; Tamiya 3g CA cement strong 87139 Edited January 9, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Why spend on tamiya branded glues when other products are cheaper? I'm sure no one will know once built Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 If by any chance you're referring to superglue, forget it, lol, the only results I get from that rubbish is to stick my fingers together! I've had some great model glues in the past when I was a kid (best one was from Italy in a plastic squeedgy pot with a needle tube. For something so generic, the results can vary wildy, maybe its ignorance on my part, but there are clearly different types of glue and different dispensing methods. I haven't found one I'm happy with of late so don't want to leave it to chance, I'm ordering the stuff in the instructions booklet, especially the strong ca for photo etched parts as these hold tiny things like the indicators on which you'll only get one chance at and I really don't want to mess it up. For things like tyres I see your point, the rest of the items there are fairly small change for which I'm happy with sticking with the Tamiya stuff. However I'm open to any recommendations anyone has on alternatives that work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 RJJ, Here's a picture I found on the net showing the double dampers on the rear and how they mount; All the holes are there to accept the new turrets, so all you need is turrets, dampers and mounting hardware. The front steering arm will clash with one side on the front. I think from the videos that I have seen, it's the front that bounces all over the place and there isn't much clearance between the front drive shaft and bottom of gearbox. Apparently Juggernaut springs can be used to increase the height. Here's the front servo mod, again not my pictures just found on the net from this thread; http://www.rcmt.net/forums/showthread.php?12864-My-bruiser-mods-FULLY-detailed Regards Nito 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Here's another interesting Bruiser thread that covers quite a lot of potential mods. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-bruiser/424412-jhtreyiiis-bruiser-build.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 So onto the bodyshell proper now. First I'm cleaning up the sprue left overs around the windshield and rear on/off switch. I didn't get a before picture but here it is now all cleaned up; Here's the type of mould flashing I referred to earlier, there's a lot of it on this shell, also on the practice mad bull shells I have too actually. There are a lot more examples elsewhere. There's a bit of a dichotomy here, who is ever really going to get up close enough to notice these things. Just a quick primer and rattle spray can and really it'll still look great. You'll only really notice this stuff up close but seeing as I'm taking my time to try and push myself to do the best job I can at my current level of experience it needs doing. I really am petrified of messing it all up with airbrush and particularly lacquer but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. There's a familiarity with the rattle cans that is still calling out to me! Anyway enough moaning about that, I'm going for it and "que sera, sera!!" You can see towards the front grille area where I have started. I've left the rest for this shot to try and show the difference. Same here; To be honest, rattle can or not, it's worth going to the effort of doing this. I'm pretty sure the smoother edges will help the paint adhere better anyway and give it less of an edge/line to catch! This mould flash is pretty pronounced here...before... and after... again showing it on the other side; This is all around the windows, rear tailgate etc etc. While doing this, I notice that the shell isn't actually ABS, but Polystyrene, I thought it was quite soft. This also explains why the side bars are always a different colour to the bumpers and sleeper cab. I always wondered about this when I saw it in pics. It's not a great pic for lighting but you can see the different white on the sleeper cab. The front and rear bumpers are also abs. The side ones are PS like the body! So a fair bit of gentle work here. I'm using 800 grit paper, sometimes wet. To be honest, it's quite therapeutic, I'm a bit disappointed in myself for not prepping my sons Mad Bull shell this well the first time. Although to be fair, that was my first attempt and I did key it all up etc, first go with primer, rattle can and all that. That shell still took me ages doing it over a few days each night when I got in for work!! Back to the Bruiser, I can run lipo's on my ESC, both 2S and 3S. Looking at specs on 3S, the Mabuchi falls within those specs. It's 12T for a 2S or 18T for a 3S and less than 20,000k rpm at 7.2 from memory. So I'm imaging this mabuchi on 3S at 11.1v. Will the motor just fry. I have 2S batteries if not, or 11.1v heli flight packs which are well enough protected on the bruiser that they could be run there....hmmm, would certainly give an idea of what the Bruiser would be like with more oomph. Think I'll work up to that, the esc is easy enough to adjust using a simple jumper to select between Nimh and lipo, I guess it self detects if it's using a 2s or 3s. Cheers for now... Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJJ Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Thanks for that info Nito, it's an intresting mod. Don't blame you for removing those flash lines as you say it's nice to do all the bits and be meticulous like you have. Now we all will be removing them lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Sanding and filling, to be expected on a hard body shell, in fact, any tamiya plastic sprue parts... Considered an aftermarket interior? Couple on eBay using nice PE details for the dash and console, also some door cards available too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Cheers Noj, Yes I've seen all of them, some on RC4WD too, including black or brown leather upholstery lol. I think I'll add to it slowly, there are quite a few things I have in mind. Nothing drastic but just to personalise it a bit! gtg, being nagged by the missus now!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Defo me,now you have pointed them out,nice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) I think they will transform the interior myself, the tamiya parts are just a little plain for my taste... Ordered...figured if I hung about, you chaps would buy 'em up Edited January 10, 2015 by Noj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Haha...where from? Ebay or rc4wd? It's not cheap the interior bits! What did you go with, super detailed dash, door cards and leather seats?? I meant to say, I thought the Bruiser came with a driver, I didn't notice previously because the body parts were all kept in the box untouched while I did the build, but there is no driver included, which is a shame...something else that needs buying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Looking at my DIY booth today. It's the outer box that the bruiser came in. The rear cab is hanging from the ceiling of the box, I made a little fitting there, the other two items are perched on one of my crimbo presents, the tamiya painting turntable kit which is pretty cool! None of the items are ready for paint, I'm just trying to figure out the best approach. So I went into town to look at extractors, looked at computer fans, bathroom extractors (approx 70m3/hr) proper spray booths are around 750m3/hr, then I checked out cooker hoods, found one that could be decent (450m3/hr), but too dear, here are some pics though, this would have been mounted at the rear of the box but without the trunking... I'm unlikely to be spraying anything until this is sorted. Anyway, while out I did buy something, from Maplin, bit of an impulse purchase as I'd been looking to buy one for a while, it's a bit bigger than I needed, but its harder to remember the size of something when its out of sight and the other case looked too small... To house my transmitter... This has the pre cut strips so you can shape it to whatever you want. The quality of the outer case isn't that great, mainly because one side has about 3 rivets on the outside face of the case!! Albeit the underside, and the handle is of a funny colour, otherwise fit and protection is great. Was around Edited January 10, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Hang on Noj, Have you just joined the party, or did you have one before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Nito, can i just ask you a question buddy, the hpi esc you are using, does it have programable drag brakes ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) No, I haven't seen any reference to that in the instructions. It's another reason I was going to go brushless, fully mappable esc, better runtimes, less resistance in the drivetrain, better performance. Originally I had planned this HPI esc;http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-flux-emh-3s-brushless-esc/rc-car-products/380924 I run the predecessor in my WT01 and I really couldn't be happier, drag brakes, ABS, you name it, fully configurable. I use it with this motor and again, couldn't be happier...http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-flux-shot-4300kv-brushless-motor/rc-car-products/363294 In fact I think I may still run with this setup!! The motor can be detuned also and you can adjust initial punch control. It's also waterproof. Would need to check that the esc fits in the rear box. The older version of this probably wouldn't, as its taller, but this newer esc is much lower profile it would appear. You'd need extended motor cables goimg brushless, like you do with the stock motor. Regards Nito Edited January 10, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Cheers bud, i honestly thought that hpi esc was the exact same as the axial ae-5, which obviously has drag brake, it certainly looks the same or simlar. I wanted it for crawling with, idealy a sensored brushless is needed for crawling due to cogging issues with sensorless, cheers for letting me know though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Chuffing hell this is getting way to TECH for me,I only went to a secondry mod school and left at 15 whoops given my age away but hey keep all this TECH talk coming,Iam a fast learner, so keep it coming,brill thread NITO make sure you get this on Y-Tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Thanks ibo. Watchman, I haven't noticed any untoward cogging, in fact none at all in my brushless equipped WT01, when is it that you get cogging at its worst? From zero to slight throttle? Does low gearing make it better, or worse? I've read lots of people talk about it. I'd like to replicate the conditions to see if its an issue with that HPI motor I linked. As I say, I've never noticed it, but mine is a pretty mild brushless at 4300kv it's a 9T equiv and it'll only be running at 2S. I also thought my esc was the same as the Axial when I saw the axial one the other day, the outer case is identical! Go for the Axial one maybe? I just looked at the instructions online, mine has two jumpers to make adjustment, one is lipo to nimh, the other is reverse on or off, the Axial looks to have replaced this function with drag brakes 50% or 100%. It's also more expensive Edited January 11, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Actually, looking at it again, the drag brake function being permanently on woth the Axial would wear me out for the type of driving I do, and the instant forward/reverse with no brake in between wouldn't suit me, but if you're a crawler then I guess this is definately the way to go. Drag brakes are pre set as 100% from factory, and interesting that HPI suggest on the esc below that if in crawler mode drag brakes should be set at 100%. I presume that's to save the gearbox among other things. Here's the brushless esc instructions that I was looking to get, check out the adjustments on page 10!http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/112953-emh3s_esc-glb-m-v1.pdf Do you crawler guys generally run drag braking at 100%, so when you release the thottle the truck grinds to a halt?...no coasting but I guess you get used to this and can drive around it by running it at impulse power rather than coasting, when you want to come to a rolling halt. Reckon that covers esc's!! The Axial will fit in the case and the switch will work in the stock position, albeit the switch is much smaller than the tamiya one, but importantly you can switch it without removing the body. I'll have a measure up of the HPI brushless esc dims to see if that would work in the box, it's about 7mm taller than the current HPI I'm using. Ps. Ibo, page 11 in doc above gives a summary of many of the terms and definitions and what they do. Pps, one for the crawlers - drag brakes say they simulate the effect of a brushed motors resistance when throttle stick is at neutral, so is 100% drag brakes effectively completely braking the car, or 100% simulating a brushed motors characterisitcs on coasting?? Edited January 11, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Going back to bodyshells, there are a couple of threads on Tamiya club that I've been reading that are so worthy of sharing, really inspiring stuff showing the possibilities of what is attainable with a healthy dose of imagination and diy just by experimenting with plasticard/styrene and glue ... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=67940&page=2 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=68193 Enjoy! Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Cheers nito, on a crawler you idealy need drag brakes, when crawling over rocks or on a steep incline it automaticly holds the truck in that position whilst you figure out your route its just alot more precise for off road driving especialy if you are desending down a steep hill. Brushless cogging only happens at low rpm, and gets worse as the motor heats up, on a crawler/scale rig tiny throttle inputs are used and they also run totaly different gearing to any other rc like a buggy or touring car, plus with a scale crawler its not moving fast at all so this tends to heat up the motor much much quicker hence you can get bad cogging, really annoying in a crawler that should be silky smooth, sensored systems do away with this as they know the exact postion of the armiture inside the motor, this solves the cogging issue but a sensored system is not ideal because its not waterproof or mud proof so to speak. In all of my crawlers i run brushed systems but with lipo power, its the cheapest easiest route imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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