Want to learn airbrushing

[Noj]

Chaps, is Iwata kit not recommended for beginners? Looking at their set ups last night and tbh, I don't think their prices are Ott for quality, long lasting kit. I work on the theory that better kit has fewer issues, is easier to work with, ergo helps in the learning process of something new.

[fatboyneil]

A good beginner kit from iwata would set you back about

Edited November 28, 2014 by fatboyneil

[Noj]

Thanks Neil, I'll have a read through and check the links. I was thinking of their brushes only tbh, as the compressors did seem overpriced compared to some others I've seen.

[Sharkfat78]

I got a cheapo set up for Christmas a few years back and haven't yet used it. I might hate it/be totally crap at it, so just spent about

[johninderby]

I have that compressor and works very well indeed and not too noisy. Didn't bother with the airbrushes thay bundle with them, rather low quality. Already had a decent airbrush and bought a new trigger (or gun) type one to try out as well.

John

[fatboyneil]

Sharkfat78 if you got one without a tank you will not enjoy airbrushing as much but they are ok just give it a go.

Also this is for everyone any compressor can be used for airbrushing if you don't mind the extra noise and have the space get what you can even ones like this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331139846395 IT can also be used for other jobs then there's loads of bargains that could save you time and money like this one http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=141480821966

[Noj]

CO2 cylinder with an adapted nozzle: read that from ye link Neil....tempting, no water to worry about and totally silent...

[fatboyneil]

Yes but expensive in the long run Google co2 cylinder you'll see

[Noj]

Bother!

Compressor it shall have to be then

[PurcyP]

dont get too hung up on compressors n branding 

 

as long as its tanked, has a water trap and works then ya good to go.

[Sharkfat78]

I can get a new compressor with a tank later on so that's not a problem. If I had a shed to work in, I'd just use my big compressor with the 50l tank on it lol.

I'm more bothered about the paint at the moment. Which is the best stuff, whether its easy to get, how to mix it etc etc

[Deafty]

+1 on paints.  though tamy's starter ratio is about right for spraying.  Thicker needs more air presure for similar results.  It's all a balancing act.  I've done a lot of bigger application spraying fyi

[fatboyneil]

For the most a thickness like milk is best for air brushing paints well the most use faskolor or createx both require thinning slightly but can be used out the bottle the only paint I've found that don't need thinning are the spaz stix and alclad2 paints alclad2 being mainly for static models but can work well on lexen shells for tips on effects using airbrush look on YouTube oh and true fire requires a lot of patience trying it for the third time soon hope its third time lucky. Also masking and stencils are a big part of the prep for airbrushing these are other things you'll look at here's a few videos for you

I've stopped there as there's 13 videos in total and they only cover about 2% of what you can achieve with an airbrush

[NITO]

What primer and laquer do you guys recommend for airbrushing, they don't seem that readily available? Also what is a sealer coat? I thought it was always primer, paint, then optionally lacquer (clear coat?). Instead I've been coming across primer, sealer, base coat, prime coat, top coat, clear coat etc.

Just been salivating over Iwata's on the airbrushes.com website! Mmm

Ps, thanks for the video links.

Edited November 30, 2014 by NITO

[fatboyneil]

As most of us are doing polycarbonate shells the whole primer base and sealer coats aren't something I've looked into much as most the painting we do will be on the inside of the shell

And don't get too exited over iwata kit it's like anything else in this world over priced cause your paying for the name.

Oh and a sealer coat is just that using a clear coat of lacquer to stop colours from mixing between coats I use this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161440794956 but any will do if you look at the alclad paints you'll notice they do varying grades of lacquer from flat Matt to gloss Finnish I can see where they come in handy on static models but not much use on poly/lexan shells to find out what's best try asking in comments section on the YouTube videos I've found it a good source of info

[johninderby]

Iwata is fine if you don't mind paying through the nose for the brand name. I just picked up an iwata clone that takes all the iwata bits and accessories for half the price. It'll do for me.

John

[NITO]

Thanks Chaps,

 

If you were going for two airbrushes, what sizes would you go for?

 

What size airbrush do you mostly use for mass coverage on a bodyshell, 0.5?

 

0.23 for fine detailing and painting drivers?

 

On ABS shells I've always used Halfords primer and then Halfords car paint. I tried laquer from the Halfords can but have never had good results with it.

 

Have seen these lacquers;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-LITRE-1K-CLEAR-COAT-LACQUER-HIGH-GLOSS-UV-RESISTANT-READY-FOR-USE-RFU-/330921898266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d0c7b711a 

 

or 2 pack Lacquer

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2K-CRYSTAL-CLEAR-ANTI-SCRATCH-CLEARCOAT-1-5LTR-LACQUER-ACTIVATOR-KIT-1LTR-0-5-/331187755547?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d1c541a1b 

 

and some info I found here;

http://carsprays.com/how-to-choose-and-apply-clear-lacquer/ 

 

 

Thanks

Nito

[fatboyneil]

What ever you've done in the past please never do again your trying to use car paint on models which won't work and especially not with airbrushing. With airbrushing for ABS SHELLS check out spaz stix base coats and then the colours of your choice then Finnish off with something like this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=111185872332

Or this http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/Ultra-Shine-Clear-Acrylic-Enamel-Aerosol-3-p/szx90109.htm It mainly helps to be acrylic where as most halfords paint are cellulose based and have been known to melt or distort some weaker model plastics

Edited December 2, 2014 by fatboyneil

[Noj]

Neil, have looked at kit from that eBay retailer previously, do you have any direct experience of buying from them/specific knowledge about the compressors and kit they sell?

[fatboyneil]

Oh and in answer to your airbrush size question 0.3 mm or 0.35 for backing off will do fine and for fine detail go with 0.2 mm like the two I linked to earlier

[fatboyneil]

Noj the seller I've used a few times for bits for my work in the building trade so can vouch for them being reliable and the compressor is as someone else said a perfect starter kit the airbrushes aren't that good but are ok for a starting point.

Also the compressor comes recommended from several other airbrush sellers on and off ebay that's why I got one.

Word of warning don't use too high a pressure especially if in your house finding a covering of paint everywhere doesn't go down well with the boss she was not happy

[NITO]

Thanks for the additional info Neil. Big help.

Would this paint also be suitable? water based non toxic etc and would it be compatible with the lacquer you linked earlier? ;

https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_27_177&products_id=1588&osCsid=78020e76efd122b60f6249500c8a1750

I had a look at Spaz Stix but could only find the lairy flip type colour change paints and the like.

Thanks

Kind regards

Nito

[Noj]

Thanks Neil, that's reassuring.

I'm not splashing out yet, overspray in the new gaff will not be appreciated, intending to have a proper spray area in the man cave (when it gets done). A big compressor has a certain appeal, but so does a desktop one, with tank... Decisions, decisions...

[Tamiyacowboy]

ok guys 

 

question about rc bodys and 1:1 bodys, 

 

the difference here is we inside spray the rc shell so our work is a little more fiddley, like blending and ghosting,

can we spray 1:1, yeah BUT we usually leave this to a larger brush set, or do something smaller like vespas and the likes.

here its more ART less about working paint but more about laying it and making an image. 

 

AirCans - Compressors 

 

i had both, yes i cheated. if my power went down and i had a full tank and used it to the limit. i could if needed pop an aircan on and finish up.

grab a pack of spray can tops, pop one on and you have an awesome airduster when you aint got the compy charged.

 

Tanks, a big tank is better, the bigger the tan the more air you hold at a higher pressure, remember you regulate this pressure

via your valve, lower psi means you use less air , to much and you risk blowing the gun to hard and making a right mess ( yeah i done it lol).

 

sealer : this is what we call clearcoat, it seals the paintwork in

primecoat is usually your main color coat

base coat: is a bit like a primer BUT is colored, we can use a yellow tint basecoat and flash it with a nice sunset yellow ( sometimes white backing does not work you wnat more difine colorings)

primer as it says, its usually a gray color, you spray this on first, it eats into your metal and sets, this is the base for all other paints to bond to.

 

in RC we use two paints or more so a single Prime coat color and something like a backing out, be it a base coat or a primer ( you can get colored primers to )

 

needles you will make a selection up for differnet work, 2mm upwards, 1mm and below for uber fine work dark arts ninja spray artist

[fatboyneil]

I wouldn't use auto air colours till you know exactly what your doing that tend to be for the pros that do cars and bikes they tend to require specific base coats and lacquers and sometimes need extra colours between coats to achieve the desired effect I tried their racing green bodged it and it now looks like pea green not a vary easy paint to use