brit_bulldog Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Yes, Although im not sure its actually 4 and 2mm just the 2 and 4 spacer as per the amount of bumps on the spacer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Another awesome build Charles One of the guys at the local has one of these and it goes very well indeed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Did you buy the Turnbuckles direct from Lunsfords? If so, which ones did you use as they don't seem to list a set for the Lazer ZX6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Anyone else have any thoughts on Pro's and Con's of Saddle or Shorty setups for this car, I'm going to build one and as a Newbie with neither type of Lipo at the moment would like all the advice I can get, this will be my first 1/10 buggy. How do you like the Orion Charles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 (edited) Did you buy the Turnbuckles direct from Lunsfords? If so, which ones did you use as they don't seem to list a set for the Lazer ZX6? I used these:http://www.rudebits.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=111_195&products_id=488 Tbh I use these on the rb6 too. Edited November 18, 2014 by charlesk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Another awesome build Charles One of the guys at the local has one of these and it goes very well indeed! Thanks David. It is a good car indeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 (edited) Anyone else have any thoughts on Pro's and Con's of Saddle or Shorty setups for this car, I'm going to build one and as a Newbie with neither type of Lipo at the moment would like all the advice I can get, this will be my first 1/10 buggy. How do you like the Orion Charles?With saddle packs the car is heavier esp to the rear, which should make the car more docille, and possibly better on ripply tracks. Shorty and rear motor makes the car lighter, which makes for a more agile/direct car. Probably better on high grip. Don't use any Orion gear on this car I'm afraid bud... Edited November 18, 2014 by charlesk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Thanks Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 My mistake, it was the Orca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 My mistake, it was the Orca The Orca is a v.good motor. Smooth as silk at the bottom end and just keeps reving so got good top end too. I use Thunder Power motors in my 2wds which are also good, but the Orca is smoother without lacking top end. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 My kit arrived today and I'm looking forward to building it, won't have time to start it for a few days though. When it's built I would like to test it on a tarmac surface as that's the only option locally at the moment until I can get down to the track, problem is I'm not sure what tyres to use. I like the Proline Road Rage tyres on my 1/8 scale buggy but they don't do fronts for 1/10 buggies, any suggestions as to what I could use with these or should I use something completely different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Without sounding daft, what is the purpose of testing on Tarmac? A quick run to check everything works/car tracks true or a full blown run? If it's the first then you can get away with your race tyres, just don't do to many slides/ harsh launches for the second not sure, suspect that a set of worn tyres should be fine but not really got any suggestions I'm afraid... What surface is it going to be mainly used on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Grass is too long and wet now but there is a flat area of tarmac which was originally a couple of Badminton courts that I sometimes run my 1/8 buggy on, I am relatively new to RC cars and don't want to turn up at the club and start bashing into everyone and everything making a complete nob of myself so would like a little maneuverability practice as well as a test run for the new build. don't have any worn tyres as this is my first 1/10. Surface is typical old type hard court (tennis, netball, badminton). I do want to give it a bit of stick once I know I can control the car but don't want to shred good racing tyres, rather have some road tyres I can use next time I want to practice or test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 For what is worth, imo running a car on open area with a surface that is v different to what the track is, will do little to simulate track driving. Use the court to make sure everything works as it should, and then pop to the local track on their club night for a nosey and have a chat with the chairman/race director about some alone time on the track when they're not using it. It will be far more valuable and haven't come across any clubs that are unhappy to help newbies. Explain that you don't want to be a moving road block, practice till you can lap without crashing for 5min (pace irrelevant) and then join the club nights. If you're set on extended running on Tarmac, I'm sure I'll hVe some part worns in a few days that won't be any good to me for racing... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Thanks for that Charles, that would be very helpful and I may have a chat with the relevant person to see if I can arrange a little 'alone' time which would be really good. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Charles, we change rear antisquat to lose some rear end grip. It makes car lot smoother in corners where grip is high, You will need to Dremel gearbox as the wishbones snag. Have a look at Elliott Boots setup on kyoshoeurope.com To clarify, I take it you are reducing the Anti-squat by shimming up the Rear/Rear hinge pin holder and the shims go directly under it, any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 The gears are a combination of delrin/normal plastic. I do not believe metal ones are available for the ball diffs, at least yet. Saying that and having another 2 Kyosho racers I've not had any issues with their plastics yet. Time will tell but don't expect any issues. What do you use for lubricant on the plastic gears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 What do you use for lubricant on the plastic gears? Any grease that is safe on plastics. Personally I use a tub PTFE clear grease that I've had for ages... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 (edited) To clarify, I take it you are reducing the Anti-squat by shimming up the Rear/Rear hinge pin holder and the shims go directly under it, any pics?No reduction of antiquat. The 4 notch shim under the RF holder and the 2 notch on under the RR holder. The difference between the 2 is about 2mm, which gives a decent amount of antiquat, but also raises the rear hinge pin holders. (Compared to using say the 2 notch under RF and nothing under RR) Edited November 24, 2014 by charlesk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Thanks for the answers, still learning here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 No prob bud, anytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jony nitro Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Learning but ou got a very good car, and they are easy to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 One of the best out there atm, if not the best... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stilli Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 That's good then, needs to be easy for me to even get round the track. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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