GPV-1

[RCbutcher]

Sounds like a right mission but I think you can pull it off. It's just funds permitting you definitely have the skills.

I would like to see the forum crowd fund a cnc machine donated to a staff member and whoever helped raise the money gets parts made at cost until they've had their money back in saved labour costs. The other members could get stuff made at a better rate but still pay some labour but also the staff or handler gets a free cnc machine lol. The Rossa guys would surly be all over the idea. But with all crowd funds there's kinks to work out.

[Tamiyacowboy]

i rebalanced the bike. 

 

put the esc on the right side of bike (offside) beside the main pinion and spur,

the motor wires go direct from motor to esc, so test first to check they dont need reversing then a direct solder.

have two mounting points for the rx , one is the nearside where esc originally sat, or under the rear seat cowling.

 

having the bike set up on the offside, and rx under seat means there are no wire cables at all to interfere with the

steering rod system, but i do have a slight catch where the steering servo knuckle rubs the body paneling.

 

can order a ezrun 12t mini brushless motor tomorrow, found one at 7800kv and costing around

[Syncro]

Instead of adding weight you could wind in the droop screw on the rear swing arm.

[Tamiyacowboy]

i thought that but the plastic pad is somewhat soft on the droop plate on the swing arm

i cant find a fix for that unless there was a alloy swing arm made up with solid seat plate.

[Syncro]

What some do is use a piece of a craft knife blade as a pad.

I've just glued on a small piece of lexan as a pad. Holding up fine.

[Tamiyacowboy]

Right back to work !!!! 

 

 

So its still white , It was motorless and in a none working state. 

 

i added an old black mantis 3600kv brushless motor, it is a 40mm long can so sticks out the side a bit.

good thing is its a 20mm OD so small enough for not rubbing the chain drive main gear set..

 

just need to remove the grubscrew from the old motor holding pinion on, its niether a 1.5mm or a 2mm allen key its a daft size inbetween.

but i need to get this grub out as its the pinion i need in the right mod and its steel not the plastic/brass rubbish. 

[leongordon234]

Just read through the whole thread , sounds like you are doing a good job

Will be good to see it running

I have one of these but I am yet to run it

[Tamiyacowboy]

The mantis 3600 kv is installed , and bullets soldered, esc is fitted in and connected up with a nice XT60 for battery coupling.

 

Problems : 

 

motor overhang, as we know these bikes ran the micro brushless systems found in 1:18th and 1:16th scale. ie novak brushless motor

coupled with a mamba sidewinder esc. like novak they ran mod 5 pinions, using imperial hex (1/16th). the motors were also a 20-24mm OD can

with a 35mm can length so sat perfect inside the bikes chassis plates. BUT a 2040 can motor is an extra 5mm and thats a lotta space in a small area.

the chassis can take upto a 24mm OD can BUT it will catch on the main chain drive.

 

spur gear, is chewed up. im gonna get a couple runs at most before its gone even running it under powered (5100kv to 7000kv rated ).

but the problem lays with the spur gear itself, the center hole is NOT round but a 50P like shape, and the spurs are discontinued.

the best fix is finding a spur adaptor that will match the OD of the main drive/layshaft and allow a still farly low profile and let you use mod 1 and likes

2mm mod 1 metal 14t pinion and a nice mod 1 64t spur, more swapable and ablility to use almost all spurs out there in small scale.

 

just need to work out how im gonna bind the rx and esc all in one go on my stick handset (neutral stick centered) but NOT have so much reverse.

i dont wanna lock up the rear and flatspot the very soft rubber im running ( looks to be grade 1 soft race rubber and not a chocolate block rubber)