vibrating_cake Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I know technically torque steer in a 1:1 car sense is because of un-equal length driveshafts. But i've just got a new esc on the little tamiya rising storm (df-02) with a 15t firebolt motor. Now, when i go full throttle off the line, the car veers off to the left (not drastically) maybe turns on its-self by about 10-15degrees, i'm guessing this is because of the torque from the motor trying to turn the chassis over because its mounted lengthways along the chassis? The trims are set spot on, driving at a steady pace forwards, if anything it pulls to the right very slightly. Both my steering arms are set (toe in/toe out arms?) exactly the same length left to right, with the right amount of toe for my driving style. What can i do to prevent this when running on tarmac? can i compensate for it with the suspension e.g. softer rears so it squats, or stiffer rears so it doesnt squat and pulls the front up? Not too sure, 1:1 car chassis+suspension development has its similarities to rc cars, but only to a certain point, like Toe in-out is the opposite for rc cars really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 with real cars you have FWD, RWD and 4WD like rc cars too so you set them up accordingly, same principles as the 1:1 but with a 1:1, your sitting behind the wheel so you can gauge all the inputs, rc cars you have to guess unless you have it setup exactly to your driving style. First check all bearings are running freely and also that the drive train is running freely then go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Your motor is mounted parallel to the chassis ( fore/aft) rather than transverse ( across the chassis) andthat is the problem. As the motor spins up, it forces the driveshaft round, and Newton's laws state there will be an opposite torque reaction that will try and twist the chassis/car. Not a lot you can do about it really. You won't be able to stop the chassis twist without major surgery...and any attempt to stiffen up the suspension on the side that's compressed would just compromise handling when you drive. Stiffeneing front or rear will not improve...and could make it worse. You will just need to compensate for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vibrating_cake Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Bah humbug. I'll knock the "punch" down on the esc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r083rtd Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 ive seen on some cars they have dampers instead of rods- maybe that might be a solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vibrating_cake Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 ive seen on some cars they have dampers instead of rods- maybe that might be a solution What do you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r083rtd Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 What do you mean? What I mean is instead of normal steering rods they uses te dampers from something like a tt-01 or 02 and if set up right then this might cancel out the problem because it is more flexible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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