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MTA4/MGT Owners thread


jari

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Been out with the Mta4 S50 and still trying to fine tune, only have 500ml of fuel left in container so I'm looking to change to byrons 25 or 30, my nitro's ran a lot better since changing over to RB 25% from Optifuel rtr (think 20% or 25%.)

Which should I be buying 25 or 30%, I was racing a KM Baja 5b 23cc over weekend and I was surprised how the S50 was doing (not fully tuned, well not wheelying yet) If I change to Byron 25/30 will I need to set all needles to factory and then re-tune or can I fill and tune from where needles are currently at, also will I have to do a mini break in over a couple of tanks or not.

At the moment I have stock blue springs and about 1/2 inch of preload clips on each spring, back end does dip when accelerating but when it comes to turning I've got to stop dead almost otherwise I'm on two wheels, luckily I spotted a full set of extra firm copper, firm red and medium gold springs at a good price and bough them, for grass surface whats best spring setup and preloads on each spring for take off and cornering, and is there a particular brand and number glow plug that runs better with byrons fuel 25/30

Cheers

Hope to be overtaking the 23cc Baja once I get setup/fuel and tune right

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That rtr stuff is crap try Opti 25% race. I started with that and then switched over to the race blend and have never looked back.I've got reds all the way round with 50wt oil handles well on grass. Haven't tried any big jumps yet so don't know how it will handle that.

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Managed to slip away from work and get an hour in with the truck. Gets out and it won't start. Put new glow plug in all batts charged but still nothing. So I set carb back to factory settings to see it would start that way. Engine would not idle for more than 30/45 secs before quoting,so adjusted lsn and started up again but after about 45 secs of idle the trucks clutch was kicking in. What am I doing wrong

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Managed to slip away from work and get an hour in with the truck. Gets out and it won't start. Put new glow plug in all batts charged but still nothing. So I set carb back to factory settings to see it would start that way. Engine would not idle for more than 30/45 secs before quoting,so adjusted lsn and started up again but after about 45 secs of idle the trucks clutch was kicking in. What am I doing wrong

What plug did you put in hot, cold or medium, might need to adjust your air/fuel mix screw. give it a few half blipsfor 30 seconds then a quarter throttle up and down for half a minute or so, once it gets up to temp it should be ok, mine did the same today as it's colder than it was yesterday..

Edited by chirri999
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Os8 plug. Tried to follow the follow chart on here but just could not get to grips with it. Idle 1mm, factory needle settings. 25% opti race. Started it up engine quit after 30secs so adjusted lsn as chart said. Re started engine as it idled revs got higher and clutch kicked in. What gives.

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Os8 plug. Tried to follow the follow chart on here but just could not get to grips with it. Idle 1mm, factory needle settings. 25% opti race. Started it up engine quit after 30secs so adjusted lsn as chart said. Re started engine as it idled revs got higher and clutch kicked in. What gives.

You get any where with the truck, I'm hoping to get mine out this evening...

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Keep me posted. I've got my s50 to to run perfectly now. Going to try and see if I can get a speed gun now, I'm sure it can hit the 50mph mark. I out run a quad bike today and that was doing 38mph flat out and the s50 was still going. What speed has anyone else on hear reached?

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What setup you got to hit those speeds, what brand fuel and nitro content you using, are you on stock parts clutch, spur, exhaust pipe, have you lightened your S50, what tyres you on........

 

If you're close to 50mph then please give me your setup... :omgblinky:

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It's all stock setting except springs witch r red and a full set of race bearings from germany. I will try and dig out order details of where i got them from and send them to you they seem to make a big diffrance to stock ones. Fuel is 25% opti race. It's never been this fast EVER since I switched fuels. I was using the rtr stuff before and it had a good tune on that and was fast, but nowhere near as fast as this. Going to try and get some vids over the weekend weather permitting. How fast is a baja then?

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Every Baja's got a different top speed dependant on setup and engine size and some of it has to do with the type of unleaded your using and 2 stroke oil your adding, but at a guess a standard 23cc with a

cheap tuned pipe stock setup you could hit around the 35+ mark and a 26cc around 40+ and then my mates 29cc out a losi mini 1/5 poss up to 50mph or more. When I corner I have to really really slow down or end up two wheelying or on my roof, ive got 50 weight oil in all shocks and red springs with 8-9mm of spacers on all shocks.

I ended up rounding off one of the wheel hubs front passenger and my nuts where loose, 17mm on mine are 23mm stock on the S50

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Yes mate 23 mm are stock. Ive been looKing at getting a baja but dont think the missus will suffer it. I had the same problem when cornering with 50 wt front and back so I put 40 in the front still can't corner a full wack but a bit faster back end slides more rather than lift up on two wheels and end up like a turtle lol than with 50 front and back dips a lot when braking but oh we'll. Who needs brake anyway lol.

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might change mine to 40 wt in front and see what happens, need to order a CVD drive shaft, can't get the bloody grub screw out looks like its welded in place, also need a new wheel and poss full set of hubs as the old ones have had it that's why the nuts are coming undone easily.

May have to use blue threadlock on the nuts when I get the new ones just to be safe, cvd's seem to be different mines the orange shell S50 with the orange beadlocks but not sure which manual covers my edition.

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I haven't been able to get out with the truck much since the last time apart from yesterday but had to cut the session short due to when going from stand still to wot there Is a crunching noise coming from some where i think it might be the rear diff. might need Refilling. I've got two full sets of the hubs with the 8mm hole a set from an EB4 and an alloy set from blacksmith but when fitted there's a lot of wobble on the wheel. Don't know how much damage it would cause to the wheel when driving at speed, as they cause the wheel not sit central.

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yep i wouldnt mind gettin some from blacksmith they do slightly longer hubs which would help s50 when turning.  since buying mine almost 2 yrs ago ive not greased cleaned or refilled the gearbox or front rear diffs.  weathers gone craaaap hopin tomorrows dry will have to find a car park as greens will be soaked.   :thumbsup:

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Do not use the 8mm inner diameter hexes! You will break something. Either hex, axle wheel or all three...

And a broken cvd is going to cost a lot more than sourcing hexes

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