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MTA4/MGT Owners thread


jari

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Bleeding things broken again!

Suddenly lost drive, no forward or reverse, tried pushing it forward or backward in visa versa gears with the engine running and you could hear the gears scream so nothing wrong with the gears as such i.e stopped it go backwards when in forward gears.

Got hoke stripped down the box to find

... the reverse gear has a tooth missing, the two plastic 1st and second gears were okay.. except for the tooth that was missing from the reverse gear had embeded itself in the bigger of the 2 plastic gears ( is the bigger gear first gear )

Help me out here guys.... i wanted a toy to stomp around with that wouldnt break nearly every time i took it out.. i know nitros of old and well.. they arent built terribly tough. This happened at low speed on tarmac!

Are petrol rc's built stronger so.... you fuel up take out have a bash for a few hours, return hoke, clean it up and put it away until ya wanna play again?.. i know at times it will break but is it possible to have someform of rc that you can take out and bash/run say 7-8 times for a few hours each time without something breaking?... if this nitro rc was a car nobody would have a job bloody unreliable heap! Fun when it works but c'mon... every time its gone out its broken?..

Are petrol rc's more reliable ?

you've been ramping the truck and getting 20ft of air the drivetrain will be getting mauled to death as above it'll be a grub screw that's come out.

If you are bashing hard you'll need to check it over more often then not as things will work loose I'd loctite the grub screws there a known PITA.

Petrol is easier to run and maintain in most instances but bashing them hard, again usually ends in tears.

1/8th electric is where you can get airbourne and not wince as much as there light and powerful.

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I haven't done that for a long time and that was only done once. the damage since then has been resolved, it's been fine up until last night when it decided to eat its own gearbox!

I've removed the grub screws from the prop shafts (from either end of the gearbox) noway they were coming out without some force! as I'd again.. using lockingwire and lockthread so they didn't come loose, end result was yes they came out fine, but 3 allen keys came out bent.

 

last night was being run on tarmac, totally smooth tarmac just up and down more than anything as the grass was too long, too wet etc I didn't want the electrics to get all messed up neither I don't bash them hard in all fairness.. theres a mx track in a woods (but you can't bash hard in a wood, trees in the way.. ) big open playing field thats flat and just grass.. and an old pit that closed in the 80s mainly a grassed area with a tarmac road that doesn't get used... thats it. 

 

if you can't run the thing on tarmac without it breaking theres something seriously wrong.

 

I've seen the kind of "bashing" some folk do on here in big open MX skate park type stuff i'm not going to those length to jump etc, I dont have places like that near me. the MX track is more hills and dips and crests (if you were riding an MX bike you could jump the bike)

 

rob

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I think your on the right path with the truck as all your really doing is breaking the parts that are well known to do so, hence this thread and the fixes in place to stop it happening again.

Research would of helped in regards to this as the trucks been out along time.

Tarmac is very harsh on a monsters drivetrain and you need a weak link I've since loctited my grub screws and they have been fine.

There's also the fact you may of just been unlucky lol in which case just grin and bare it.

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i no longer have the leaning out issues as previously experienced with just the one tank,

 

I also have no more issues for stripping the wheel hexs etc now, 

 

the steering servo i know can be a weak  point but ive replaced the oirignal with another ace original servo and seems to work fine at the minute... but fear it will go soon (already tried a hd1501mg servo that failed within 10 minutes of use.. :/

 

what other weak area's do I have? also... whats the best surface to run on? regularly cut grass that isn't too long or dirt i.e woods ?

 

also.. how long do you expect or want to run your nitro for in one go? i.e go out and want to be out for hours on end or just a quick blast for an hour?

 

Rob

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also... my grub screws aren't the issue, my issue is the reverse gear lost a tooth and that got embedded into my first motion gear forward gear and knackered it.. what weak points do I need in my gearbox? sounds a bit strange needing a weak point in drivetrain lol

 

rob

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I usually run until I break something lol can be 30mins or an hour or 2 always take more then 1 RC out though.

Hex's

Servo's

Gearbox

Grub Screws

Several posts all relating to these points that need addressing on all boards.

a weak point can be described as a plastic spur or play in a hub to stop all the force going right the way through the truck all rc's have these in one shape or form.

You've ironed a lot of these out so not much more needed just a new gearbox lol go for the s50 option it's much more robust.

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i run my 28 on most things it likes it :P

 

have any of you guys took your trucks to the beach? i took my 28 and my hpi nitro firestorm, i took them to st Andrews it was nice and sunny likes, they both loved the sand.......wish i had my camera tho  :crybaby: 

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dunno if theres any upgrade head

if its the colour you dont fancy theres ways to get rid of it look back in this thread

. It's not so much the colour of it but more that mine is a bit beat up. Thought if I was going to replace it may as well get a better one
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