Feedtheinferno's Losi 5ive - Melty connections hmmm?

[Feedtheinferno]

for connecting the servos, a baja steering bit works well.

from servo horn to servo saver.

 

I think these are the ones the GFR tray come with http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/2-sided-alloy-horn-for-multiplex-rhino-digi-4-hitec-5755mg-savox-235-and-236.html

 

Thanks guys you have saved me some agro!

[Feedtheinferno]

Well with all this rain so no running I find myself buying more stuff for my petrols. Here is what came today, my GFR full alloy servo mount. These are $299 new and because this one is a little rough I got it for

[Feedtheinferno]

Right.

 

I am contemplating the set-up of these servos now in regards to how they will be connected and would work at steering the car. I have two choices (although I am swaying towards the one)

 

Firstly the standard set-up where both servos are linked on the horns themselves and both force the steering in conjunction to one another. So I would need two double servo arms 4 links and a Y cable.

 

Secondly (and this is one I am liking the look of)

 

I was thinking of doing it this way as you don't see it very often:-

 

https://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/n-r-p-losi-5ive-t-double-servosaver-turnbuckle-kit.html

https://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/n-r-p-losi-5ive-t-double-servosaver-arm.html

 

Steering is achieved by one arm on each servo facing different directions and steering independently of one another. The thing I like is there is less stress on the servos this way and if one was to fail it does not mean the necessarily will as much as them being linked together would do.

 

I am wondering if anyone has any experience with this kind of steering that could advice as to what it is like to use?

[Thunderwolf]

you 2nd way isn't too far from the fg marder set up.

 

both options work and i don't see an issue with either but don't forget you will need to make sure the servos are even in the rotation, otherwise you will burn on of them out

[Feedtheinferno]

Yeah that was the one thing I was a little concerned about. One servo arm sits at the normal 90 degrees neutral and the other is reversed at maybe 195-210 degrees so I would be worried to get that wrong. I would rather not burn out the large scale servos

 

Ah I am talking myself out of it now.....and I would be saving

[Rossyra]

Yeah that was the one thing I was a little concerned about. One servo arm sits at the normal 90 degrees neutral and the other is reversed at maybe 195-210 degrees so I would be worried to get that wrong. I would rather not burn out the large scale servos

 

Ah I am talking myself out of it now.....and I would be saving

[Oh How Original]

Talking yourself out of what? Dual servo set-up? I ran a Savox 0236, even just in a NiMh, and at no point did I think it needed to be faster.

If you ran it with a LiPo for extra speed, I can't imagine you'd miss a dual set-up at all.

Although on a NiMh it was fine didn't notice at fade at all.

[Feedtheinferno]

No, talking myself out of the set-up type. If you read above you will understand you can place the horns differently on the servos....I won't be running savox's either

Edited February 12, 2014 by Feedtheinferno

[supersavage]

I had a lot bad luck using the Savox servos and I found them to fade after about ten minutes. I'm now using dual HiTecs and so far they seem to be lasting a lot longer than the Savox ones did.

[Feedtheinferno]

I had a lot bad luck using the Savox servos and I found them to fade after about ten minutes. I'm now using dual HiTecs and so far they seem to be lasting a lot longer than the Savox ones did.

 

Hitech's are the ones I am putting in.

 

For some reason the heads of them were swapped with their Rhino counterparts. So they will be a nice shade of red

[Pharrel]

I'm using a Savox 0236 for steering and I've never had a fade issue while bashing but I do want to buy the dual servo saver arm at one point and see how this goes.

[Jolly_roger_uk]

If you haven't got one already, get yourself a hitec servo programmer.

Open up the dead band width to 4, and use it to set end points and sub trim to give perfect geometry. It's the only way setup a dual servo linkage like this and not end up with the servos fighting each other.

Edited February 12, 2014 by Jolly_roger_uk

[Feedtheinferno]

If you haven't got one already, get yourself a hitec servo programmer.

Open up the dead band width to 4, and use it to set end points and sub trim to give perfect geometry. It's the only way setup a dual servo linkage like this and not end up with the servos fighting each other.

 

Oh right so one of these?

 

 http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/p6313/HPP21_PC_Programmer_For_Hitec_Digital_Servos-ON_ORDER/product_info.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=xigen_shopping_feed&gclid=CJPT15igx7wCFSTMtAodDWwAhQ

 

Do you know of any videos in regards to help doing what you say as I have never had to do anything like this before?

[Jolly_roger_uk]

Yes, I think that'll do it, although I haven't used the pc version myself. I use the standalone programmer.... http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/Servos_Servo%20Testers%20and%20Programmers/c63_184/p1258/Hitec_HFP-25_New_Digital_Servo_Programmer/product_info.html

[Oh How Original]

People have burned both Hitec and Savox out, I don't think it makes much odds if it's not set-up right.

And I thought you meant talking yourself out of a dual set-up.

[Feedtheinferno]

This is a question for anyone else for a GFR mount, could anyone answer these?:-

 

1) On DDM's site you can see a little star shaped piece of alloy, can someone tell me what that does as mine didn't come with one? Is it necessary to make the kit fit?

2) I have taken the mount apart to clean it and when putting it back together it looks like some of the legs don't fit at a complete vertical from the top plate. I presume this is normal until its mounted to the chassis due to alloy flex?

3) Is there a way of fitting a hitec size servo into the throttle position of the mount as I only have hitecs and only have a adaptor for the two steering servos.

4) How does the RX box actually attach to the mount? It came bolted up, which is fine for the lower section, however when you put the lid on the box it fouls on the bolts and won't close fully. Is that normal? As the lid would be a bit loose (even with the body clips on)

5) I have seen people fitting the standard battery box over the top of the GFR plate, is that a case of drilling holes into the plate in order to make it fit?

Edited February 13, 2014 by Feedtheinferno

[supersavage]

1. That's the transponder mount so I wouldn't of thought you would need unless you have plans on racing. 2. I think mines similar but it all straightens up. 3. Yes you need the Jofer adapter thing but with mine the servo is only held in by two screws as the other holes don't line up properly. I'll try and get a pic later to show what I mean. 4. This I'm not sure can't remember at the moment will have look in a bit. 5. Yes just drill two holes and counter sink them. You should be able to use the two screws on the battery plate to secure the box. If you want I will get a pic of that as well.

Edited February 13, 2014 by supersavage

[Feedtheinferno]

1. That's the transponder mount so I wouldn't of thought you would need unless you have plans on racing. 2. I think mines similar but it all straightens up. 3. Yes you need the Jofer adapter thing but with mine the servo is only held in by two screws as the other holes don't line up properly. I'll try and get a pic later to show what I mean. 4. This I'm not sure can't remember at the moment will have look in a bit. 5. Yes just drill two holes and counter sink them. You should be able to use the two screws on the battery plate to secure the box. If you want I will get a pic of that as well.

 

You absolute beast! Cheers bud that is all really helpful. I will just use my Losi servo for now in that case

 

Brilliant, if you can get some pictures just for reference that would be perfect bud!

[supersavage]

No problem.

[Feedtheinferno]

Yes, I think that'll do it, although I haven't used the pc version myself. I use the standalone programmer.... http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/Servos_Servo%20Testers%20and%20Programmers/c63_184/p1258/Hitec_HFP-25_New_Digital_Servo_Programmer/product_info.html

Thanks Lee.

 

However I think the servos I am fitting to this Losi are actually you old ones. Apparently they were used in your punisher quite a while ago? Rhino topped hitecs if you remember them. So presumably you will have already matched them?

[supersavage]

I will try and upload pics in a bit having issues my computer.

Edited February 13, 2014 by supersavage

[Feedtheinferno]

Cheers bud....but how do you actually have it secured? I presume with just some screws and bolts? Could you do a top down picture?

[supersavage]

Let me try this again.

 

 

 

 

 

[Feedtheinferno]

Fair enough.

 

Yeah that's how my box looks I just thought it should fully close but maybe that's just a silly assumption Thanks for the pictures. I will get some holes drilled on the battery box and plate. 

[Feedtheinferno]

So the dual set-up is coming along nicely. I have been looking again and again at shells and I have definitely made my mind up as to design and shell choice.

 

I am going with the standard shell as I like the look of a truck...seeing as I already have two buggies! I am also sticking with the "urban camo/confusion camo" look, however I am stealing Audi's new limited paint design...because frankly it's brilliant! Here is a picture:-