ta05 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) I raced a mardave mini once and it was good fun. But I don't think it would keep me entertained long enough to race one for a championship, so I doubt I could justify the cost of buying one and all the electrics for it. Hobbywing and hobbyking 1s ESC's are what some of my club use for pan cars and mini stox if that helps. I think the main question is if your club uses turbo or not in their rules and that can then change what ESC to suggest. Edited July 31, 2014 by ta05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Proper GT12 racing is 13.5 motor, blinky esc & 1s lipo. Our club runs as per the current GT12 rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta05 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Our club I am not too familiar with the rules (as I only race touring cars) but I think they also do not use turbo. We usually have two heats of them, about 10 or 12 cars per meeting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 There is 2 classes, used to be GT12.1 (modified) & GT12.2 (stock), now known as Supercup (modified) & Production (stock). Plenty info on the BRCA website about both classes. GT12 is more popular up here rather than touring cars indoors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta05 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Because our club is so small in comparison to others, it was decided to not allow turbo. It was a good call imo, (as well as banning turbo for 13.5 touring cars) as it was getting too fast and eating tyres lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 GT12 has always been blinky only. Our club used to allow boost for touring cars but this is way too fast indoors so we went 13.5 blinky for touring cars too last season and was definitely a good move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta05 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 After a lot of testing by the committee, we allow either 13.5 blinky or 17.5 turbo. It's worked very well. A top spec 13.5 motor with turbo was great fun for a lap and incredible to drive for a whole race but it turned some people away from the class imo, and that's not in anyones interest from a club perspective. Any problems with car setup really got multiplied. In any classes of racing you get different eras and I was glad I was able to experience 13.5 turbo in such a confined track space. It's similar to 12th scale when it first evolved and you had modified motors in them. Great to watch but times change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TamiyaM05Mini Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Finally got my Supastox working better. I messed around with springs, bodies, O rings, tyres and moved the electronics around. At our club we run 13.5t 1S or 21.5t 2S (Even though no one does run 2S). Here's my new set up, in full detail. ESC- Orion Vortex R10 Pro 1S Motor- Thunder Power 13.5t with High Torque Rotor Servo- Savox 1251 (Although going to be swapping it for a Sanwa SDX-801 from my Tamiya M05) Springs- Green on front, Yellow on the back one hole from the middle Tyres- 50SH Front Tyres, 40SH Rear Battery- Orion Carbon Pro 90C 1S Body- ProtoForm PFM-12 Hop Ups- Mi5 Wishbone Socket Mod. Alloy screw set and Zinc nuts all round Hope this can give you something new to try. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpicLURcher Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Im thinking of getting the wheelbase conversion set, it comes with the mi5 mod already in it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Justock works fine.on 1s with 13.5, i used to run one when i had mine. No voltage booster or servo eitherYou do hav 2 plug a 2s in to program it with box though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Justock works fine.on 1s with 13.5, i used to run one when i had mine. No voltage booster or servo either You do hav 2 plug a 2s in to program it with box though I may give one a go as I spare one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Justock works fine.on 1s with 13.5, i used to run one when i had mine. No voltage booster or servo either You do hav 2 plug a 2s in to program it with box though really? as soon as you start running a race it browns out like nobodies business ..well mine did anyway but there ya go lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Browns out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Well looks like I'll be going back to GT12 once the indoor season starts, had an interesting race with my touring car indoors on Friday just past. Was definitely challenging but wasn't as fun for me as when raced GT12. The local club always runs an open day before the proper championship starts so I'll try out my spare HW Justock then running 13.5t motor & 1S lipo. It's my old spare speedo, so if it goes pop, it's not the end of the world. Ratman, did you use 16g or 14g wire on yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 It was as it came from hw so think it was 14awg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Ok cool, yeah it comes with 14g, I'll solder it up with 16g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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