cookie666uk Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Looks like a nice little bash spot there. I'd make sure the can is clear of water after that puddle. A few have had issues with water getting in 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Thanks for the heads up. It was always ok on the Firestorm but I'll start checking it after a wet bash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Best Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Thanks for the heads up. It was always ok on the Firestorm but I'll start checking it after a wet bash.Unfortunately the stock flux motor on the blitz isn't waterproof at all. The slightest puddle or drizzle of rain and water droplets will get in to the motor through the cables and end capsSent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) After wasting hours on a nitro savage I've decided to sell it...I thought id direct some love on the Blitz Took some time on the blitz replacing the diff out drives. I didn't notice I need stub axles too as they're worn too, not too bad. Worn diffs Edited November 1, 2015 by Derka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Best Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 After wasting hours on a nitro savage I've decided to sell it...I thought id direct some love on the Blitz Took some time on the blitz replacing the diff out drives. I didn't notice I need stub axles too as they're worn too, not too bad. Worn diffs Did you heat treat them. Wasting your time otherwise they wear out so quickly. Mine last much much longer when I heat treat the outdrivesSent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I didn't heat them, but I have read about people doing it and been sucessful.I've adjusted my ESC from the stock punch setting of 7/10 to 5/10 and more recently I have reduced it to 1/10.My thoughts are maybe lower initially punch may help prolong them. If not, I shall heat treat them and see how much of an improvement it is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I've just set my esc to max punch control and I'm about to go test it. Do I need to worry about battery temps? I seem to remember reading somewhere that rasing the punch control increases strain on the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) As long as you have decent quality battery with a good discharge (C) rating it should be fine. Look out for signs of trembling from the car at full chat as that would indicate the battery is not upto the job.As I understand, without checking(!) as long as your battery amps are higher than your max esc rating you should be ok.You can work out how many amps your battery can supply by using this forumula - (C-Rating) X (AH) = Maximum Constant Amp DrawExample my Gens Ace 5000mah 2s Lipo would be 50 x 5.0 = 250 Amps Edited November 4, 2015 by Derka Font colour 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Ideal, all my batteries are at least 30c 4500mah so should be fine. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I've just finished swapping the rear suspension arms over to extend the wheebase and also moved the shocks on the rear to the outer hole on the suspension arm, hoping to try and tweak the suspension to get more weight over the rear.Then I need to sort out its crap servo/steering setup as at any speed I have hardly any steering. I guess I could complety lock down the servo saver but meh, thats more screws and its not good now its dark with lights on, too much shadows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Best Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I didn't heat them, but I have read about people doing it and been sucessful.I've adjusted my ESC from the stock punch setting of 7/10 to 5/10 and more recently I have reduced it to 1/10.My thoughts are maybe lower initially punch may help prolong them. If not, I shall heat treat them and see how much of an improvement it is.I lowered punch to 3 and tighten up the slipper clutch a but still get fast acceleration that way but the driveetrain should be under less stressSent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Best Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Just read derka's post about battery. Was going to reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Best Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I've just finished swapping the rear suspension arms over to extend the wheebase and also moved the shocks on the rear to the outer hole on the suspension arm, hoping to try and tweak the suspension to get more weight over the rear.Then I need to sort out its crap servo/steering setup as at any speed I have hardly any steering. I guess I could complety lock down the servo saver but meh, thats more screws and its not good now its dark with lights on, too much shadows!http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-high-performance-race-servo-high-torque-/rc-car-products/359784Good servoSent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Just got back from an awesome bashing session I'll post a vid up in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) Here it ishttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6jG2hkaDfc Edited November 4, 2015 by everclear1984 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Nice. I need to find a good jump spot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie666uk Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Me too. Not much going on locally. I did find an old jump in a bombhole in the woods but a tree has fallen across it. Not sure where I stand on taking a chainsaw down there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Is anyone running Proline Trencher rears with different fronts? I'm thinking about picking up a set but I can't afford to replace both front and rear together right now and I've heard the Trenchers are huge. Will they look/handle odd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Not trenchers but im running stock hot bodies fronts and Dynamite Speedtreads Shootout rears and Dynamite Speedtreads Robber for on-roadhttp://www.modelsport.co.uk/dynamite-traxxas-slash-4x4-front-and-rear-mounted-speedtreads-shootout-sct-tyres-2-/rc-car-products/376735http://www.modelsport.co.uk/dynamite-speedtreads-robber-sc-tires-mounted-slash-rear-slash-4x4-front-rear-ecx-2-/rc-car-products/376592Handling seems OK, the poor servo/saver/plastic steering bits probably hinder more than tyre choicePeople quite like nanda blocks as a Badlands copy. The trenchers look similar to the Dynamite shootouts too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I tried nanda blocks on my Firestorm and really liked them for hardpack. However, being taller the Trenchers seem more suited to grass which is where I mainly bash at the moment, with the occasional hardpack session thrown in for good measure I totally agree that the steering rack needs sorting before bothering with the front, the Firestorm setup seemed much better, there's just too much flex in the plastic parts on the Blitz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Yup, its a weak point but unless I win the lotto im not throwing the best part of £60+ on HPI's aluminium rack. STRC do a similar one but its not as good by all accounts, but better than stock.Im going to check the servo saver tightness as its a good few months since I last had the front end apart. Some run with the saver as tight as possible and then glue it, but then the servo would be at risk... but saying that im sure the plastic links would flex. Have a read of some threads on the american sites.As you say, the Firestorm has a lot better steering Edited November 8, 2015 by Derka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I've locked my servo as tight as I could get it. There's so much flex in the plastic that I'm not at all worried about the servo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Think ill have a look at mine tomorrow then. Its frustrating as I initially thought it was a weak steering servo. At any half decent speed or bumpy surface you dont get full turning unless you slow down.Have you got the stock steering knuckles installed? Apparently the in-line instead of the stock trailing help a little too depending on your driving style Edited November 8, 2015 by Derka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Mine is completely stock at the moment. I was tempted by the STRC one but I think I'll get myself some decent tyres first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derka Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 If you bought it new, the in-line steering knuckles will be in the parts bag. In the manual there is a diagram showing the pro's and cons of each. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.