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Possible 1/10 Bodyshells To Get Vacuum Formed - Suggestions And Feedback Welcome


lowen93

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Looking good so far!

I stillnthink you would have an easier time of it if you scaled it to fit a Tamiya M chassis in LWB mode. The chassis wheelbase is 239mm, so you would only need to stretch the body by 2mm. And with a track width of 174mm, you wouldn't need to enlarge the arches so much.

As for making the car the right width, might I suggest keeping the arches in proportion with the body, and simply stretching the whole thing to fit? The width increase wod be a lot less noticeable this way. You would also then have more chance of fitting it over the longitudinally mounted battery.

Edited by XV Pilot
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Thank you. I've got the top one saved as like a template now for tweaking etc so i don't lose the original sizing. Ill stretch it up to 239 and check battery sizing too.

I looked at the hpi Saxo and kamtec 1/12 nova when i got to the width problem so i tried the kamtec way with big arches first after seeing some rally cars like it. The Saxo looks right and appears to have been stretched sideways with some subtle arches so ill try that way.

Nova wheels tuck inside width ways slightly so ill make sure that its a bit wider to match this and still allow suspension travel. I would think 2mm gap between wheel and body is enough which makes it to 180 overall.

One thing i wanted to try was making a closely scaled body to suit the m series or similar then have some extensions for the mold to make it upto 190 width for chassis' like the hpi sprint gti or ta02s.

Plus my eyes now need burning out from the "things" Google brings up when searching nova and wide arch lol

Edited by lowen93
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This got delivered today :sweeeet:  Tamiya TA02SW Porsche 911 Taisan shell so I'll have plenty of fun trying to make a mold of this and not get it stuck inside the shell

 

2013-06-13162535.jpg

 

Also scaled the Nova shell to a 239mm wheelbase and 174mm overall wheel width, giving a 182mm wide shell (180mm wide mold shown in the pictures) I've done it to this width due to wheel to arch clearance if somebody lowered it but thinking of making it 184mm wide?

 

VauxhallNovaWideBody3.jpg

 

VauxhallNovaWideBody2.jpg

 

VauxhallNovaWideBody1.jpg

Edited by lowen93
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I think you have pretty much nailed it width-wise judging by the pictures. I wouldn't make the M-chassis version any wider - if people want to lower it, they would probably also want to increase the camber, which would sort out any clearance issues with the tops of the wheels.

 

The narrow wheels fitted to the base model Novas tucked quite far into the arches, but the wider wheels fitted to the sportier models (and most if not all modified Novas) fill the arches pretty much completely. There aren't many M-chassis wheel options with increased offset, so if the arches look nicely filled with the stock M-chassis wheels, I think you are onto a winner!

Edited by XV Pilot
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I think you have pretty much nailed it width-wise judging by the pictures. I wouldn't make the M-chassis version any wider - if people want to lower it, they would probably also want to increase the camber, which would sort out any clearance issues with the tops of the wheels.

 

The narrow wheels fitted to the base model Novas tucked quite far into the arches, but the wider wheels fitted to the sportier models (and most if not all modified Novas) fill the arches pretty much completely. There aren't many M-chassis wheel options with increased offset, so if the arches look nicely filled with the stock M-chassis wheels, I think you are onto a winner!

 

Good news to hear. It will just about fit my chassis too if I finally made some adjustable top arms. I did think of the camber thing as it seems most real Novas are actually like it now. Plus a transverse battery fits aswell which is always a help.

 

I dug out the saw and file tonight and cut out the overall shape in the foam, got some Lexan on its way soon so time to start building a prototype methinks. After looking at the Tamiya shell there is a lot of detail put into them such as inset features in the bumpers etc so I'll see how a bland one looks then move onto detailing if people would prefer a more detailed shell

Edited by lowen93
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Looking forward to seeing the prototype!

 

I think the more detail you can put in, the better, especially around the headlights, grille and bumpers, as these are the areas that give cars a lot of their character.

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Me too! Definitely something new and interesting to me. The foam is very easy to file away so should make it a fairly easy process.

 

Recessing windows seems to be the main thing, aswell as recessing outlines to mimick panel gaps like the headlight fitment. Although I have noticed that alot of shells also rely on the decals being applied to make it seem like they have shape, but mold detail is more important here.

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theres a place in uk that sells these shell in either abs or carbon fibre look ive just had a quick look but cant find them now they had the rs200 , audi quattro , metro 6r4 , seirra cosworth , sapphire shape too mk2 escort there was loads of classics.

 

edit.

 

i just found this one which is very similar but not in england and doesnt look like they do the carbon fibre ones.

 

http://www.rcbodyshop.fr/carrosseries/carrosseries-voitures-rallye-groupe-b.html?___store=en&___from_store=default

 

Edited by RCbutcher
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  • 10 months later...

Sorry but I can't believe  :fish:  the 2 cars that are the pinnacle of hatchbacks are the Audi Quattro rally car and the Lancia delta integrale hf turbo :mf_dribble:

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Sorry but I can't believe :fish: the 2 cars that are the pinnacle of hatchbacks are the Audi Quattro rally car and the Lancia delta integrale hf turbo :mf_dribble:

agree 100%...hf turbo best looking car ever made.......stuff all these rounded blended flowing body lines of 98% of the crap on the roads......looks pants!!! Edited by evssv
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The only problem I can see with the nova you have drawn up is the fact the arches undercut in the mould.  You need a draft angle on all sides or you'll never remove the mould without destroying it. 

Draft angle meaning all four sides must go up like a pyramid where everything below has to be wider than above. 

With wooden moulds with release agent I struggled at 5degrees draft angle. 

Those wheel arches will cause a problem. 

Another thing is the mould needs to be as smooth as a mirror near enough. I've had a hair drop on top of a mould before and one it's moulded the detail of the hair will be visible in the finished product. 

Also on the windows detail headlights etc. Each inwards cut makes the mould much harder to release. That's why tamiya etc generally leave the finer details out. 

If you can Mill The mould on a 3axis with a vertical tool you can vac form it.  :) 

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