kondre2000 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Here is my WR8 as it stands as of last night http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31137-img-0242/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31136-/ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Top Gun26- How does one remove the O-rings from the cups of the Diff outdrives? I have the integy universal drive shafts that you mention and I have the binding mentioned when using them with the other integy AL parts. Thanks Kevin Just take the dogbone out of the diff output shaft and look inside the shaft. You will see a little black o-ring in there, fish it out with a toothpick or bobby pin and you should be good to reassemble it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopGun26 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) Top Gun26- How does one remove the O-rings from the cups of the Diff outdrives? I have the integy universal drive shafts that you mention and I have the binding mentioned when using them with the other integy AL parts. Thanks KevinI used a toothpick to get extract the o-rings out of the drive cups. You can use anything small enough to get in there preferably with a pointy tip. Ps. Nice ride! I see you're going for that Orange theme. Mine is decked out with Integy's gunmetal color since it closely matches with HPI's gunmetal bits =) Please report back any issues with the CVD's whilst running if you end up taking yours out before I do! I'm sure many are dying to find out. Mine runs butter smooth after Endpoint adjustments. Cheers. Edited December 13, 2014 by TopGun26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) I had some JaZRider parts show up today 8-) $24 for both front and rear parts... not bad! Can't wait to see how they hold up. I'm hoping they work better than the stock parts, I'm sure they will. Edit: Woo! It's christmas ;-) 2 of these bad larries also showed up! Damn, I'm excited now! Edited December 15, 2014 by Mgozzz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 +1 Good batts, great price. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Sweet! I've heard good things about them but this is my first time giving them a shot. I've been running a Skylipo 5000mah 40c and a Duratrax 5000mah 30c for almost 2 years now. The Skylipo ended up puffing this year which was mostly my fault, it puffed from being hit by debris from the front wheels on another chassis I run. Amazingly it is still going pretty strong but I'd really rather not take a chance with it anymore. The Duratrax is still going strong like a beast though so that one will still be in rotation. I can only hope the Turnigys hold up as well as the Duratrax has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 I been running a variety of Nano-Tech batts on helis, quads and cars for years. No quality complaints at all. Just swap out the connectors for Deans. Really good pricing, shipping used to be peanuts too, but now one must use Fed Ex (or similar) to deliver Lipos over a certain mAh to Canada. It's still a great deal if you buy a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Argh... I just test fit them in the WR8 battery tray and it is a super tight fit length wise. I had to basically cut out a relief for the leads so it would fit in the tray! I didn't realize these batteries were so much longer then the Duratrax 5000mah... Crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridge Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Ok, I took the plunge and bought the HK 1/8 Basher Rally. Here is a buddy code if anyone is interested. You can buy the car for $279 US. http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=FEC36FBF-F7EC-4DC7-AAFB-ED16E08E4E66 Christmas present to myself. I think the first step is admitting you have a problem! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridge Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Mgozz, Where did you find the jazrider parts? What's the quality like? HK has been my battery supplier for years now. They are great. Thinking of buying some of the roar approved 7500 mah 2s hard case ultra nano-techs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) I actually found them on eBay UK but they are based out of Hong Kong so I sent them a message and asked them to combine shipping on both items for me. They sent me an invoice through paypal and I got them a week later. If you search ebay.co.uk for "Jazrider HPI Bullet" you will see what I'm talking about. Don't search for them through ebay.com (us) because the only supplier is in AUS and the price is totally out there. The eBay UK seller is pretty darned cheap. Quality looks pretty good. I can't say they are better or worse than Integy but they do come with hardware (hex and ball studs) and bearing (for the front at least) so that is pretty nice. I'll be able to get a better gauge on how they hold up once I start bashing on them but they are alloy so I can't see them being any worse than the stock parts. BTW- Super jealous about the Basher Rally! I really want to pick one up... next month maybe ;-) Edited December 16, 2014 by Mgozzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Argh... I just test fit them in the WR8 battery tray and it is a super tight fit length wise. I had to basically cut out a relief for the leads so it would fit in the tray! I didn't realize these batteries were so much longer then the Duratrax 5000mah... Crazy! Same. No biggie. I have the leads exiting the batt tray from the front right corner, this way all my wires lay flat when connected. Works for me with the low profile J Concepts over tray. Same with the NT 5000 mAh 2s 35-70 and NT 5000 mAh 3s 35-70 sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Cool. I've thought about running the wires up front but I always run them to the back. It just seems easier with the relief built into the box. Then I just strap down the wires with the velcro. I'm getting excited though! I'm planning to run the threaded Blitz shocks bodies all around and I ended up ordering a screw kit for the Blitz and it came with the proper shock pistons in the package. The WR8 pistons are a bit too small for the Blitz shock bodies. So now that should be all set but... I also bid on and won a set of the upgraded threaded alloy 103395 shocks on eBay. I ended up getting them for like $12 shipped! lol... so now I may have to order another set of the upgraded shocks to make a complete set. They are really nice shocks! HPI did a hell of a job with them but I don't really want to plunk down $50 for another set. Maybe I'll get lucky again and find another set for cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridge Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) Well I have to share. Christmas came early. This thing is huge. Have a look. Super fast shipping. Toobad someone dropped it! I have to talk to Purolator and HK. Don't know who dropped it. I suspect Purolator. Plastic likes to crack when cold. It is cold here. Just some body damage on the bottom rear and the wing. Hopefully someone buys me a new body when they release them. Edited December 19, 2014 by Bridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridge Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Purolator came through with a quick email saying the cheque is in the mail for a new shell! Now all I have to do is wait for one to be made available! I hope everyone's Christmas was very merry! What RC stuff did everyone get? This includes what we bought for our selves! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) GPM has released a few new goodies for the WR8.http://www.asiatees.com/model?HPI-WR8-Upgrades-Parts-Hop-Ups&brand=HPI&model=WR8&c=search_enter Including CVDs...http://www.asiatees.com/display?HPI-WR8-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=HPI&model=WR8&id=101772&pid=1 and a rather nice looking (IMO) set of tie rods...http://www.asiatees.com/display?HPI-WR8-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=HPI&model=WR8&id=101771&pid=1 Not up on GPMs site yet. Edited January 4, 2015 by Hotshot888 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Nice! Those are priced well too! I got anxious and purchased a set of the Integy CVDs last week. I wish I has waited for the GPM ones to be released... which of course was the day after I made the purchase. 8-( Oh well they should be here today so at least I'll have a set! I also ordered a set of TopCad CVDs for my Bullet. It should be pretty much bullet proof once those are installed 8-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
888racer Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Those tie rods look nice! Decent price aswell Ive done a little mod on my WR8. The front bumper seems to be very weak where the body post screws through, and even the slightest roll over can lead to it breaking the top half of the bumper bar. So ive made a carbon plate to sit under the top section of bumper and screw through to the lower one, then the bodypost screw goes through this carbon plate and the plastic to give it a fighting chance of surviving for once lol Top section where they always break (in the red ring) ! Template was made of the top section of bumper, then added an extra 3-4mm around it, to give abit more strength. Modified the underneath of the top section of bumper (see the cut marks - removed 8mm either side) to allow for the sweep of the carbon plate. So it sits like this! Then all bolted back together, ready to be fitted. Edited January 6, 2015 by 888racer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Top section where they always break (in the red ring) ! Indeed. Nice work 888racer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Sweet yab! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) I had some delrin reinforcers made for my rear body post mount to help reduce body roll. You can see one of them installed here in one of Mikes (Mgozzz) build shots: Huge improvement (in body roll) with the Ford body. Also, much less likely to break if I roll her. Edited January 6, 2015 by Hotshot888 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridge Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Hotshot888, thanks for the info on the CVDs at Aisiatees. Might have to pick some up. Nice work on the carbon reinforcement. Looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I had some delrin reinforcers made for my rear body post mount to help reduce body roll. You can see one of them installed here in one of Mikes (Mgozzz) build shots: Huge improvement (in body roll) with the Ford body. Also, much less likely to break if I roll her. Yeah! They fit perfectly too! Thanks HotShot888! BTW 888Racer (haha you guys must have similar thought processes... with the 888 in both your names ;-) - I also broke my front bumper where the red ring is. I'm going to look into making a custom reinforcement like yours. It looks good. I really wish I still had access to my old jobs cnc drill/rout machines. That would be so awesome. So on to my WR8 Redux... I got my Integy CVDs in today. They look pretty good to me. The pin retainer is made out of metal and everything else on them looks solid. I'd like to see comparison between the GPM CVDs and these ones... Here they are- The pin retainer is fairly thin but it is secured to the axle housing so it should stay put. Here you can see where it is hooked into the axle housing. It protrudes into the CVD retainer block a bit but I don't see it causing any issues. There was no binding to speak of. And the pin looks to be about 2mm (about stock width). So when someone gets a GPM set in post up some pictures! I'd like to see the differences if any. Also once I get the car together I'll be sure to put them through some rigorous testing. We'll see how they hold up 8-) Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Received a set of these today.http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251636312772?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 They don't look too bad for the price. With the Tarmac sized wheel they should have less sidewall flex than the HPI rally tires do. The wheels seem to be a softer plastic when compared to HPIs. They ship unglued so I might just mount the tires on HPI wheels. I would describe the tires as soft and a bit "plasticky", whereas you might say the Tarmacs or Gyms are soft and "spongy" (I know, that was very technical comparison). Much softer than standard Rally tire anyways, so they might be good on icy roads this winter.So I decided to give these a go. Mounted them on the included wheels with the included foam inserts.I figured the (seemingly) softer wheel plastic might actually be a good thing for sub zero temps. FYI, the foam inserts are super soft, maybe they thought it would help "cushion" the ride, like the higher sidewall HPI off-road/rally tires do. Regardless, they are way too soft IMO, the tires looked a bit "crushed" under the AUW (3s) of the car. No good. So I taped the wheel vent holes closed, now with the airflow restricted, the tires hold their shape and recover from compression nicely. In fact, I was feeling pretty good about the "feel" of them. The tread design is the same as the HPIs, but as for the tire compound, if you grab and "squish" the HPI tires they compress all around, with these the sidewall holds it's shape longer (as you squeeze, the tread compresses first and you can feel the sidewall pushing into you're fingers). Took the car out today for a few batts. -6 Celsius, but sunny. Ran on hard packed snow mostly, with some spots of light snow over ice. A few mounds to get some mild/ "scale-ish" air (no more than a foot). Even did a "hill climb" up a very steep 200 ft snowy/ icy driveway. Also hit another spot for some ashphalt that was a good even mix of hard packed snow and "melted off" spots, some dry, some wet. A rather interesting surface to drive on; it varies from super greasy snow to slick/ wet ashphalt to super high bite warm ashphalt. Potentially hard on the drivetrain, think fast hard 3s drifting around a snowy corner that becomes warm dry ashphalt (Bite!), then back to snow... Can you say throttle management? If not, how about "jackknife" or "traction roll"? I have to admit (and I'm surprised I'm writing this) the performance of these tires was outstandingl! I was loving my ride today, big time! Lots more side bite than the HPI O-R/rally tires, way less sidewall flex, due to the lower profile design, I'm sure. Lots of steering, even in greasy snow. Not bad at all on ice either. Seems to bite hard cornering on dry ashphalt. A+ Forward bite was also great, much like the HPIs (which I think are great tires BTW). No complaints about braking. The tire compound might not have as much fwd bite on dry ashphalt though (compared to the HPIs). But good stuff, none the less. Keep in mind, I'm running on an uneven surface, but without gravel or pebbles. The HPIs might fare better over chunkier terrain (more cushioning). Not much wear on 3s after 3 packs. But I was running on pretty "wear friendly" surfaces. The wheels held up fine, and I threw the car around hard, some jumping (nothing nuts) more than a few hits against ice walls and such. They should hold up OK, time will tell. I still think the plastic is too soft for fast warm weather driving, too much flex. You could mount the tires on HPI wheels though. Gotta give these tires a strong "buy" so far. Are they better than the HPIs? Just as good IMO. At least, if you are running on surfaces similar to what I was. I really am surprised. Four tires and wheels for $20. Great value. Edited January 11, 2015 by Hotshot888 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Can any of you guys do me/us USA WR8 fanatics a favor? I'd love to get my hands on the new Bucky Lasek Subaru WRX body for the WR8 because it is awesome: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/113239 So here's the deal. You guys have it over here but for some reason the distributer for the USA (Hobbico) is hasn't released it in the USA yet. I'd love it if you were to write to them and say you want to order it in the USA. This is their contact page: http://www.hobbico.com/contact.html Copy pasta something like this if you will: Hello Hobbico USA! You guys are the bee's knees! I'm writing because I would really like to order the new Bucky Lasek GRC Subaru WRX body for my HPI WR8. The HPI Racing part number is 113239 and it is listed on their website here: http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/113239 It's beautiful! Just look at that thing! I want one for my WR8! Can you please let me know when it will be released in the USA? I would like to order one as soon as possible. Thank you. Or something like that... lol. I just want to get it out there that people want it. I mean it is awesome isn't it? Thanks guys!(and gals!) Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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