J.A.Son Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Yes, should have said its Bullet kit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Metal shield or rubber shield? :S lol Thanks Jason! Edited August 17, 2014 by sidewaysjim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Rubber 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Bearing fell apart, but I'm not convinced this is the bearing at fault....? Correct me if I'm wrong but the bearing supports the assembled diff inside the diff case, not the cup? Anyway I've lost an e clip which irritated me so I've put it away in pieces now as the postman's due a workout. Plus its raining so the Micro rs4 and hubsan x4 are getting some attention Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 HS, do you not run the OE servo saver if you're running an alloy servo arm? BTW, no reason you can't run the stock servo saver with the Savox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Yeah, but it don't look as good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 The stock servo saver is a little weak. I had issues with mine holding a center point which is why I upgraded to the alloy part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Hmmm, re offsets- from those dimensions the WR8 wheels are +5mm offset? Unusual as RC wheels are normally neg or zero offset! So 35/2= 17.5mm less 5mm= 12.5mm. The speedline 2.2's at 28mm width: 28/2= 14mm + offset. So, the WR8 wheels 'stick out' 12.5mm (with a 5mm pos offset) from hex mounting face to outer rim. The narrower speedline wheels with their assumed std neg offset would be 14mm +offset choice, from hex face to outer rim- ie wider stance- albeit a narrower wheel! Don't quote me, but the smaller of the speedline offsets should be closest- if I've got my head around this correctly, lol!? Haha! You laid it out way better than I could! And what you said sounds about right to me. I think the wr8 having the + offset is what was throwing me off. The standard snr wheels have a normal 0 offset. Edited August 17, 2014 by Mgozzz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 @sidewaysjim- I just looked at my used diffs and they don't have that much play on the cup. Is it the same on the ring gear side? FWIW the bearing only supports the casing and not the cup. I'm not sure what impact that has on your situation though. I think you may want to also replace the case and seals. At that point it would be cheaper to get the full diff from the eBay chop shop. How old is your wr8 anyway? You might be able to bug HPI and have them send you replacement parts if it's still under warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Indeed, Jim's diff problems do sound odd!? Surely it can only be the diff case that's worn in some way? As mike says, is the ring gear side the same/as bad? If it is I'm stumped, unless you have a dodgy batch of output shafts/cups! One other 'clutch at straws', are the o ring seals intact? I'd put it to HPI, warranty claim or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Might be worth getting a complete diff from an ebay breakers- I paid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Its bad but not as bad on the ring gear side. Both of my wr8's were eBay bargains and this one cost me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Two diff's purchased, found the eclip, repaired the flux with parts from the nitro, nitro gets repaired midweek when parts arrive happy days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Today's toys. Postie has a load more tomorrow and there's a fair bit on backorder too 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Those running a Savox servo, did you notice and reduction in run times? Just wondering if the higher power requirement drained lipos quicker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manis Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Hello everyone! I have a question (may be stupid). But is it true, or not, what 15CC GASOLINE ENGINE from SAVAGE XL OCTANE could fit 1/8th scale cars? WR8 is 1/8 http://www.bigsquidrc.com/hpi-18th-scale-gas-engine-fits-everything/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Those running a Savox servo, did you notice and reduction in run times? Just wondering if the higher power requirement drained lipos quicker? I didn't notice any difference in my run times with mine. Hello everyone! I have a question (may be stupid). But is it true, or not, what 15CC GASOLINE ENGINE from SAVAGE XL OCTANE could fit 1/8th scale cars? WR8 is 1/8 http://www.bigsquidrc.com/hpi-18th-scale-gas-engine-fits-everything/ Ohhhh wow! That is pretty cool! I didn't realize the octane kept the nitro motor block profile. I think with a bit of modification it *might* fit in there. We need to get some measurements of the engine though to be sure. It may also be too long for the chassis seeing as the WR8 isn't a true 1:8 scale platform. If it does fit though... It will be pretty wild! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manis Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/112927_octane_15cc_engine_glb_m_v1.pdf page 14. Omg, its double size of a G3.0... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicr360 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 What's the best 3S Lipo to get the WR8 to hit 60mph? I can only get 53mph and that's with the replaced gear pinion installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I would imagine the HPI plazma? How do you find out your speed? Does the castle link have that feature? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicr360 Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) My own GPS is what I use. But wondered what anyone else was using in terms of battery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 22, 2014 by Sonicr360 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) What's the best 3S Lipo to get the WR8 to hit 60mph? I can only get 53mph and that's with the replaced gear pinion installed. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhat size pinion, as 53mph ain't too bad tbh! Also, where you sure you were at vmax, ie the run long enough to top out? Most gps systems are not very accurate whilst accelerating, as there's a slight lag in obtaining positional info from several satellites. They need several seconds at a set speed to accurately record velocity. So that along with the bigger pinion 'wind up' you're prob looking at 100-150m run: 50m up to max then the rest at max to allow for gps catch-up. Oh and plus braking: ~20m? Any athletic tracks near you? That would do it! Edited August 22, 2014 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I honestly don't know how fast my wr8 is but I'm using a duratrax 35c 5000mah and a skylipo 40c 5000mah. They are both heavy batteries but they give me the run times I want. Also the duratrax battery seems to be the better quality out of the two. Even though it is a year older than the skylipo battery it seems to have better run time and punch. Which one is better for speed runs? IMHO I'd think the duratrax. It just seems to be better quality. Whatever you do, make sure you are looking for a battery with an adequate "c" rating. I'd try to stuck with anything over 35c to be on the safe side with the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Has anyone had to run a 'glitch buster' (bloody big capacitor ) with their Savox on the WR8? It's not a problem tbh, just interested. Still sorting install of my newly arrived 1273tg- need to splice fan motors together, as the glitch buster has taken a receiver socket! But so far its a huge improvement! Before and after vids to follow.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Has anyone had to run a 'glitch buster' (bloody big capacitor ) with their Savox on the WR8? It's not a problem tbh, just interested. Still sorting install of my newly arrived 1273tg- need to splice fan motors together, as the glitch buster has taken a receiver socket! But so far its a huge improvement! Before and after vids to follow.. I'm running one in mine. It's a tight fit inside the receiver box ;-) I'm also running a FlySky system so the receiver has 4 or 5 ports... I have more than enough ports for all my electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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