Hyper 7 Questions

[Jasoncmor]

Hi all.

I have a few questions about the hyper 7, and i figured i'd put them all into 1 thread instead of making loads of threads, lol.

(I have a hyper 7 black edition, 21 3port.

1. How can I tell if the chassis is bent?

2. What thickness grease is in the diffs from stock?

3. If I was to rebuild the diffs, first, whats the best way to get the old grease out, and second, what new thicknesses of grease should I use?

4. Is it worth fitting a front anti roll bar?

5. Are there any parts worth changing for aluminium? I want to change the tank supports to aluminium because those plastic ones annoy me letting the tank move so much, good idea or not?

6. I'm looking for a spare screw set for the hyper 7, I've seen one on ebay for about

[snchris1]

cant answer all of them but here goes

4. no there isnt really a need to fit a front roll bar.

5,1. get aluminum chassis braces

[Tomahawk89]

I dont know what thickness grease is in there from stock but i just stripped mine down washed out the grease with fairy washing up liquid, rinsed off and left to completely dry. Then filled the diffs with silicone oil 5k in the front, 7k in the centre, and 3k in the rear and found it made a great difference to the handling. I also fitted the front anti roll bar at the same time, whether it has made a difference or not i dont know but its so much nicer to drive now ive done those two things.

Edited January 7, 2013 by Tomahawk89

[ts4n]

I have some alloy tank mounts ill let you have cheap

[alturner]

_{1. It should be flat front to back from just behind the front diff housing. Just use a straight edge to see if it's nice and close all along. Also check the fitting of the torque rods. That's usually a good indication if there's a issue}

_{2. Front 5k, Middle 7k, rear 3k is a decent setup for bashing. If you're going near a track it depends on the surface, and size of the track really.}

_{3. As above, clean with a fairly liquid or similar, dry completely, then refill}

_{4. It's nice to have, but don't worry just for bashing}

_{5. alloy chassis braces are a good upgrade for bashing, some people think it stiffens the car up too much for use on tracks. Otherwise, try and get hold of CNC shock towers, specifically the non-lightened versions from the Hyper ST Pro if you can get some. They are indestructable. Based on their design, I always assumed the tank mounts were deliberately quite flexible.}

_{6. There's some decent websites for screws, but you generally buy them in multiuples according to their spec. Have a look here: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/cap_screws.htm}

_{or here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280794111760?var=580062715886&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648#ht_2943wt_904}

_{From the latter I recently bought all the necessary bolts to get rid of all the hinge pins and e-clips, which is probably one of the 1st things you should look to do. On that point, the 65mm M4's are just about long enough to do the lower arms front and back. 70mm would be a bit better if you can find them.}

[SirusDviruS]

Stock diff grease is just that. Grease. Silicone diff oil comes in different weights. As said something like 7-5-2 is a good place to start.

Front ARB is not a necessity for bashing, cheap as chips though so worth trying. I like to run one.

Tank mounts are designed like that to prevent the fuel being shaken up and lots of bubbles forming.

There's stainless screw kits on eBay for the hyper for around a tenner (got mine a while back). Strong enough for most components, no course thread self tapper ones supplied, no nuts supplied.

Edited January 7, 2013 by SirusDviruS