alturner

just picked up a FTX colt, supposedly for my little boy, but had a quick play with it, and it's great fun. Great fun on dirt and small gravel.

Yeah agree with Gorilla, this kick my H7e's arse. That said I have been having fun with mine for the last couple of months already Hope you've got a pukka new uncut shell to go on this.

I'm with fatboy, starter box all the way. If you convert to a pull start, you wouldn't be able to use the box, as you normall have to raise the engine height to do it. Oh, and get the Losi. I've got a hyper ST pro (no macstar 28 thank god) and although it's mighty tough, there's a few things I really like about the Losi. 1. The radio Gear. 2. The threaded shocks are much better than the ones with clips 3. the Servo's in the losi are better 4. the radio box in the hyper is pathetic, one of the most annoying designs I've ever come across. 5. The starter box. and 6. probably most importantly, the Losi engine is really good, and well, the hyper one isn't All that said, the Hyper is really good, and spares would be cheaper than on the Losi, but I think for the price and spec, the Losi is a great deal

Yeah, I want those shock towers too

If you can stretch it's got to be the Losi. I have 2 hypers, and have done my very best to smash them to pieces, but they just keep coming back for more, so if you can't get the losi, go for the Tq2 with the 21 engine. Don't go near the 28!!!! Also, as per someone elses comment, you can't compare the 8T to a buggy. The 8 t is a tough truggy, but they all have longer arms, more weight etc, and will naturally suffer more if beaten hard. If you break something on the losi, it will cost more to replace than on a hyper, but not to the point of being a real problem. The benefits of the losi over the hyper are: The engine is much better The Shock towers & chassis bracing is better The shocks are better - I hate the ones with spacers as opposed to threaded bodies You get a decent transmitter that can handle multiple vehicles if your fleet grows You get a starter box Better Tyres - I always find standard hyper tyres last about a week The Diffs are filled with silicone, whereas the Hypers tend to just have a bit of grease in them You even get a decent RX battery Haven written all that, it makes the Hyper look a bit rubbish, which it definately isn't, but I think that Losi, with everything it comes with is unbelievable value, and now I really want to buy one.

What about the Mugen MBX 6? new rollers available for about

I picked up a traxxas revo waterproof rx box. Re the esc mount, there's some pics on MAZ's conversion thread. I'll ping you a link later, but I'm on the mobile at the mo.

Try Sealing the backplate & carb. I had this on a Losi engine, always assumed the engine was on its way out and eventually removed the whole thing and left it in a tool box. Recently stripped it completely, everything was fine inside, picnch was still tight, just put it back together & sealed it, and it's been like a new engine since. Also much easier to tune too.

1. It should be flat front to back from just behind the front diff housing. Just use a straight edge to see if it's nice and close all along. Also check the fitting of the torque rods. That's usually a good indication if there's a issue 2. Front 5k, Middle 7k, rear 3k is a decent setup for bashing. If you're going near a track it depends on the surface, and size of the track really. 3. As above, clean with a fairly liquid or similar, dry completely, then refill 4. It's nice to have, but don't worry just for bashing 5. alloy chassis braces are a good upgrade for bashing, some people think it stiffens the car up too much for use on tracks. Otherwise, try and get hold of CNC shock towers, specifically the non-lightened versions from the Hyper ST Pro if you can get some. They are indestructable. Based on their design, I always assumed the tank mounts were deliberately quite flexible. 6. There's some decent websites for screws, but you generally buy them in multiuples according to their spec. Have a look here: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/cap_screws.htm or here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280794111760?var=580062715886&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648#ht_2943wt_904 From the latter I recently bought all the necessary bolts to get rid of all the hinge pins and e-clips, which is probably one of the 1st things you should look to do. On that point, the 65mm M4's are just about long enough to do the lower arms front and back. 70mm would be a bit better if you can find them.

Ah sorry, never got round to trying this for you MAZ. Just had a look on my CRT which is nitro, so a little bit more to cover (ST's right at the back of the understairs cupboard). Anyhow, it wouldn't fit as nicely as on the hyper 7, but would still serve the purpose very well. I see she does them for the Losi 8T so that might be a better bet. More positive feedback....... pootling around the garden without the shell on I smacked into the back of my kids trike, which has a bucket kinda thing on the back which dumped it's entire rain water contents onto the buggy. under the cover, everything was bone dry. Phew!!!

Got rid of the hinge pin/e-clips on the hyper 7. Hadn't really had any issues with them for about 3 years, then did 4 of them in 4 outings. 2 of which weren't even proper bashes. Replaced the rear chassis brace with an alloy jobbie, and also stuck some heatshrink on the esc to motor plugs. worked themselves a bit open the other day. Could have been expensive.

Good stuff. The battery mounting plate is useless though. I trimmed mine down and made a rock solid esc mount out of it.

Another option, if you have any cheap allen keys is to super glue one in. I always try that before resorting to the dremel (Mainly cos I can never find the thing) Just make sure you give the slot a good clean out first so you can get the key all the way in.