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Rally chassis


XV Pilot

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I'm starting this thread in order to share a few thoughts as to which chassis to choose for a 1/10 electric rally car project, and to encourage others to share their experiences. Being a Tamiya fan, my suggestions are confined to cars from the Tamiya stable, so I hope users of chassis from other manufacturers will also add their recommendations.

Here are my suggestions for starters:

Tamiya TL01:

To my mind, any touring chassis that has a buggy version is likely to make a good base for a rally car project. The TL01 touring chassis is also available as the long-armed TL01B buggy, and the short-armed Stadium Raider truck, so it clearly has some off-road credentials.

I converted one into a rally car for my father, and the conversion was simplicity itself. I started with a standard TL01 touring chassis, fitted rubber-sealed bearings, raised the ride height slightly by fitting longer shocks, mounted a set of Rally Block tyres, and topped it off with a Focus WRC bodyshell. The car performs well, is very rugged, and requires very little maintenance.

Tamiya TT01:

While the TT01 doesn't have a buggy version, it is very closely related to the DF02 buggy, and can also make a great rally car. It requires a bit more work, but the end result is well worth the effort. This was the chassis I chose for my own rally project.

My list of mods is a bit long for this thread, but you can read more about my conversion in my build thread here:

http://www.msuk-foru...-for-rally-use/

Tamiya DF03RA:

Unlike the first two chassis recommendations that require conversion, the DF03RA is sold as a rally chassis from the outset. Basically a DF03 buggy with shorter suspension arms and conventional body posts, it was designed from the outset for offroad use, and is therefore very good at what it does. It can also accept most of the hop-ups designed for the buggy version, which is nice.

Tamiya XV01:

The newest addition to Tamiya's range of rally-capable chassis, this differs from the others in that it has a front-motor, belt-drive configuration. Driving it is therefore quite a different experience, and requires a different technique for jumping. It is reportedly a very good chassis though, with excellent handling, and should be quite a strong competitor on the rally scene. The only drawback is that the drivetrain is shielded rather than sealed, so dirt ingress can reportedly still be an issue under certain conditions.

Tamiya TA02:

The oldest chassis design I am going to mention in this post, the TA02 touring car formed the basis for the DF01 buggy, and TA02T truck, giving it strong off-road credentials. Even though it was first released back in the 90s, it is still being sold today in TA02T form, so parts are still easily available. It has all the characteristics you should look for in a rally chassis, such as a sealed drivetrain, rugged design, long-travel suspension and well-balanced layout, so if you want to go old-school, this would be a good choice.

Edited by XV Pilot
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you seem to have missed a few bud. namely the TA01 which is original variant of the ta02 chassis and was released on the escort cosworth and toyota celica shells. then there is the best of them all is the tb01 which was tamiya original rally car, being sealed tub design all the foam to block out the dust and grim and then the best ever dust cover

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True, I did miss a few - mine is by no means an exhaustive list. The TB01 is a good choice if you can get one - it is built like a tank. Perhaps this is why it didn't gain as much popularity as it could have back in its day - the motors of the time weren't quite up to the task of shifting its weight - but with modern torquey brushless power, it should perform brilliantly.

There are also the FWD M-chassis cars that work well in rally guise.(The RWD M-chassis can also be used, but tend to be more of a handfull in the handling department.) The M05RA is the most recent offering, but the older M03 works just as well if given a mild lift and a set of suitable tyres.

The M-chassis open up several alternative bodyshell options. The Suzuki Swift and classic Mini shells fit the M03 and M05RA chassis perfectly, and while the Renault Alpine A110 doesn't fit the M03, it fits the M05RA just fine.

Edited by XV Pilot
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Aye, the M03 comes in two halves. Joining them together with no spacer between them gives a very short wheelbase suitable for shells such as the classic Mini. With the short spacer fitted, the wheelbase increase allows the fitment of shells such as the Suzuki Swift and Fiat 500. With the long spacer fitted, the chassis grows again, allowing fitment of the classic VW Beetle shell for example. You can even fit the very long FF02 spacer to grow the chassis to standard touring car length, or use multiple spacers to make the chassis longer still.

Come to think of it, the M03 is a very adjustable chassis indeed, as it can take the short mini suspension arms for a narrow track, TL01 arms for standard 19mm touring car width, or even TL01B arms to make it as wide as a buggy!

Edited by XV Pilot
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I have a TA02 and it makes a pretty good rally car, I converted mine from a JGTC Supra to a rally cosworth and there's plenty of ride height and it is super tough.

The XV01 looks interesting, I'm a big fan of the TA03F (great drifter but not enough ground clearance as a rally car imho) but the XV01 looks like it'll be a very versatile little car. I'm half tempted to get one of these in the future, although Modelsport don't list the Pro version for some reason where other shops do?!

From your other posts XV Pilot I think we're pretty much tuned into a similar wavelength lol!!

Cheers

Nito

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My favourite is the TB01, solid as a rock, weighs like one too, and the dust cover with driver and co driver is great. A 13.5t brushless brings them to life and it will bash all day long.

The HPI RS4 Rally is great if you can find one, very light, very quick and the inner body set is so good looking you could run it with this alone.

I've had most chassis types in various rally forms, the two above and a modded M03 are probably the best ones I have driven.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Guys! I've decided to try RC Rallying and would like your opinions on whether I've chosen my first car well or poorly.

I wanted to purchase a Tamiya XV-01 Pro but since they're out of stock locally till (maybe) March, I'll worry about that when the shop has them again.

In the meantime, the itch must be scratched and I purchased a used Tamiya TB Evolution 2. The previous owner set it up for rally but hasn't tried it out yet. He's taken out the droop screws and installed HPI rally shocks. Since the stock Evo 2 comes with aluminum bulkheads and f/r universal driveshafts, he kept those and then added a front one-way. Oh, and the car comes stock with a CF chassis which I'm going to cover with bathtub tape to seal the chassis cooling vents. I'll be using Tamiya 18-spoke rally wheels with Tamiya rally block tires (no foams).

Sooo...does anyone have an opinion of the car or the setup?

Btw, I plan on running the car at a 1/8 offroad track...

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The exposed spur gear might be an issue if running on rough, stony ground, but otherwise the TB Evo II should make for a good rally chassis, as you have all the setup options you could ever wish for, and the CF chassis plates are quite tough from what I've read. The front one-way should allow you to make rather pleasing handbrake turns.

As for your wheel/tyre choice, I would really strongly recommend foams. I set up my first set of rally block tyres with no foams, and found that sand got into them through the rim vent holes, causing them to go out of balance. Once it was in there, the sand was a right pain to get out again. Foams stop this from happening.

Edited by XV Pilot
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That was a fast response XV Pilot ! :thumbsup:

Thank you, it's been tough getting information from forums with regards to RC Rally until someone told me to check the European sites as it was more popular there.

I will follow your advice regarding the foams. You're right, I hadn't thought about dirt getting in!

My solution for the exposed spur gear was to cut a plastic sheet (the one used for office reports) and formed it to create a cheap and easily replicated undertray. I was advised to use velcro, but since the tray was inexpensive and easy to make while velcro is expensive, I'll just tape it on for now and see how it holds up.

Edited by X32garrick
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May be worth making a top cover too to keep the dirt out. A TB01 top cover may fit.

I'll look for one then :) but until I do, I'll make a copy of the tray I made and slip it on top of the chassis. However, will covers affect the ESC and motor temps? I put in a Tamiya TBLE-01 ESC and TBLM-01 12-turn motor.

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Just keep a check on it. I ran with no body the first time just so I could pop the cover off to check mine.

Will do :yes: the wait till my track time tomorrow is driving me nuts!

Btw, does anyone scuff up Tamiya rally blocks before using them? They seem a bit slippery...

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no, they scuff up nicely the first time you run them anyway. the cheaper copies (fast trax and ansmann I think) are a bit softer but tend to bobb;e and tear quite quickly. have you used foam inserts? I use the hard ones due to the weight of the cars.

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I did use the foams but I'm not sure if they're the hard ones. Only 6 hours to go till track time... so far, running it in the garage has been promising. Because of the front one-way, I don't even have to tap the brake, as soon as I let go of the throttle, the car does a 90 deg turn.

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Well, here's my report of last night's virgin run of the Tamiya TB Evo 2 converted to Rally Car. My home track is primarily used by 1/8 scale buggies & MT's and has a hard-packed, dusty surface with a few bits of gravel mixed in. Normally, we don't notice the gravel because we run Monster Trucks which just shrug them off. A 1/10 Rally Car however, managed to find most of them.

On parts of the track that didn't have them, the Evo 2 performed as expected, drifting into corners beautifully. However, everytime it found the little stone bits, it would stumble and ruin my race line. Very annoying. The good news though was that my DIY undertray didn't rip or tear after numerous rounds, despite costing the equivalent of GBP 0.01 and 5 minutes of my time to make.

Except for a loosening diff which was easily tightened, the Evo 2 also didn't break any parts, not even a single popped off ballcup. Nevertheless, the caretaker said he'll have the track swept beforehand to minimize any distruptions. Also, despite no problems being encountered with dust and dirt getting in and disrupting the drivetrain, I'm going to make an overtray tonight to further protect the insides as per tonysmini's suggestion.

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