bobsYORuncle Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 That is fairly normal behaviour for nimhs really, but yeah, ideally they should only be 'quite warm' at the end of the charge. I would suggest lowering the delta peak setting a notch, that way the charge will end a little sooner and the batts should not be as hot ( famous last words ). Charge time and settings are correct pretty much, though it never hurts to charge nimhs a little slower ( lower charge current )- a slower charge lets them hold more of their rated capacity but with a lower peak voltage, a faster charge means they hold less capacity but have a higher voltage straight off the charger. Depends if you need more speed for less time or viceversa- for just general bashing and not racing, I'd opt for a longer charge... Hi SuicideNeil, Thanks for that, thats a great help, will try changing the Delta Peak Setting and lowering the amps. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Need more info on 550 cans/ESCs. Most ESCs seem to be built for 540 cans, unless I'm misunderstanding things. The ESC in my 15t 550 equipped Carnage was never very good out of the box and now I think I've fried it totally (another story involving a 21t 540 can and confusion about gearing). Can I use any 12t rated speedo with the 550 can? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Can I use any 12t rated speedo with the 550 can? That depends on what the esc is actually rated for ( most should say in their manual what motor turns they can handle & in what can size ), and what turns the 550 motor is; a 15t 550 motor is pretty hungry. That said, the traxxas XL-5 escs are designed & rated for 550 motors ( down to 12 turns ), so it really depends on what the manufacturer has in mind for their esc... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 What could be causing my motor and esc to be getting too hot in my 2wd buggy? I'm running a Thunder Power 8.5t motor, Hobbywing Xerun 120a esc, Turnigy Nanotech shorty 4200mah 2S lipo, a 81t spur and 27t pinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 What could be causing my motor and esc to be getting too hot in my 2wd buggy? I'm running a Thunder Power 8.5t motor, Hobbywing Xerun 120a esc, Turnigy Nanotech shorty 4200mah 2S lipo, a 81t spur and 27t pinion. If motor and esc are both getting hot ( what are battery temps like? ), then over-gearing woudl be the most likely issue. You need a smaller pinion and/or larger spur gear. Could also be overly aggressive driving style ( throttle & brake abuse... ), unsuitable surface ( long grass ), or excessive drag in the drive train ( pinion & spur too tightly meshed for example )... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I haven't checked battery temps. I have now changed the gearing to 87t spur and 22t spur and temps are a lot better now. Thanks for your advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 0 replies to this topic #1 Saito Member Members 837 posts Location:12136 Posted 02 January 2012 - 06:19 PM I have a Novak XRS ESC that has a 15T 540 motor limit. What would the limit be with a 550 motor? I would like to run a Titan 12T 550 motor with it if possible. Thanks. Quote MultiQuote #2 dan12 Member Members 362 posts Gender:Male Location:Cambridge Posted 02 January 2012 - 06:35 PM yes a 12t 550 is like a 15t 540. It will be fine. However why a titan 12t ? they are known to be unreliable. Quote Found this on Tamiya Club. Dan can't be right can he? Where was SuicideNeil when needed lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I haven't checked battery temps. I have now changed the gearing to 87t spur and 22t spur and temps are a lot better now. Thanks for your advice Well my temps are still getting too high, anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I'm away to re-solder everything tonight and see if that makes any difference, either that or I'll try a different esc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 (edited) Well my temps are still getting too high, anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I'm away to re-solder everything tonight and see if that makes any difference, either that or I'll try a different esc. What are the actual temps- do you have an IR temp gun to check? An 8.5t motor in a 2wd buggy is fairly aggressive though- I run a 9t and still get tons a wheel spin and have trouble hooking up, you might consider a higher turn motor which will draw less current & run cooler while being easier to drive. Changing the esc won't drop motor temps, and that's the thing which is drawing the current & heating the esc up as a result too.... Edited September 4, 2013 by suicideneil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 What are the actual temps- do you have an IR temp gun to check? An 8.5t motor in a 2wd buggy is fairly aggressive though- I run a 9t and still get tons a wheel spin and have trouble hooking up, you might consider a higher turn motor which will draw less current & run cooler while being easier to drive. Changing the esc won't drop motor temps, and that's the thing which is drawing the current & heating the esc up as a result too.... I have a IR temp gun but didn't have one when the Hobbywing esc was fitted. The motor and esc where too hot to touch. I asked some-one at the local club to check over it for me incase I there was something I was missing. Everything looked fine to him but he did suggest the esc might be a fake. To eliminate the esc as the fault we soldered in my new Saxox Razor esc which I was going to be putting in my touring car, everything is working good now and temps are good. My next club race meet is on Sunday so will see how I get on then. You're not the first person to suggest fitting a higher turn motor, I'm going to take your advice for next years season as there is only 3 club rounds left this year then we move indoors to race GT12 & touring cars only. I only went with 8.5t as that is what I was advised to get. Thanks for your advice/help Neil, it's much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 I'm after a bit of advice for wiring my esc in my touring car, what gauge wire am I best to use? I run a 13.5t brushless motor, 2S lipo only and esc in blinky mode. The esc came with 14gauge wire but I would just like to check that this is best for optimum/safe performance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 14 gauge is fine mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 14 gauge is fine mate Thanks PurcyP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gti72 Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 could anyone tell what car this is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300bhp/ton Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Can someone help me out understanding brushless motor specs and performance please. I've seen this: Leopard TORO 1/10 SKY RC CAR TRUCK BUGGY brushless Motor Combo 13T + 60A V2 ESC http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261101462354?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 It says it has 13T 3000Kv brushless motor and the ESC can handle 2S - 3S Lipo or 7.2 - 8.4v NiMh. The guide at the start of this thread says to double the brushless motor turn to get a brushed equivalent. Making this equal to a 26T brushed motor - is this correct? This then leads me to some other questions: -How would this setup perform on 2S vs 3S LiPo, would it make a big difference in performance? -How would either 7.2v or 8.4 NiMH compare to each other or to a 2S Lipo? -If this setup really is equal to a 27T brushed motor on 7.2v NiMH. What sort of setup would I need too look for to match or exceed the performance of say a 14x2 brushed motor or a 10x6 brushed motor on good 7.2v NiMh's? Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Can someone help me out understanding brushless motor specs and performance please. I've seen this: Leopard TORO 1/10 SKY RC CAR TRUCK BUGGY brushless Motor Combo 13T + 60A V2 ESC http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261101462354?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 It says it has 13T 3000Kv brushless motor and the ESC can handle 2S - 3S Lipo or 7.2 - 8.4v NiMh. The guide at the start of this thread says to double the brushless motor turn to get a brushed equivalent. Making this equal to a 26T brushed motor - is this correct? This then leads me to some other questions: -How would this setup perform on 2S vs 3S LiPo, would it make a big difference in performance? -How would either 7.2v or 8.4 NiMH compare to each other or to a 2S Lipo? -If this setup really is equal to a 27T brushed motor on 7.2v NiMH. What sort of setup would I need too look for to match or exceed the performance of say a 14x2 brushed motor or a 10x6 brushed motor on good 7.2v NiMh's? Thanks for your help. More or less ( BL motors, as do brushed ones, but double the turns is roughly equivalent ). 7.4v vs 11.1v ( nominal ), 50% increase in voltage so naturally it will be much faster, but also run hotter- will need to gear down to keep temps in check. 2s lipo vs 6/7 cell nimh pack will be roughly equal in voltage ( charged 2s lipo is 8.4v... ), but there will be much more punch from the lipo and better run time, and less weight too. If you run 'hot' brushed motors, then you'd be looking for ~4.5 - 6.5T BL motors ( 36x50mm can size ) to be roughly equal, though you'd only run those on 2s lipo, not 3s generally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidart Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 This may be a silly question.........but whats the difference between a 540 and 550 motors? Iam looking for advice, was wnodering if i could fit a 540 motor to my carnage, esc ..probe wp has min of 15t capability. Was looking for something with a bit less grunt/harshness.Will be shopping at MS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 This may be a silly question.........but whats the difference between a 540 and 550 motors? Iam looking for advice, was wnodering if i could fit a 540 motor to my carnage, esc ..probe wp has min of 15t capability. Was looking for something with a bit less grunt/harshness.Will be shopping at MS. I've fitted 540s to my Carnage. The 550 has a slightly longer can and offers a bit more torque for the turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidart Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 have tampered with pinions and still having traction problems...bashing on loose dirt on our large back garden track, cant change the surface too much, running on mx style badlands (much better than std carnage) so i am looking at other options with car. not many tight turns on track,couple of good burms and lots of hoops and jumps along straights.traction when cornering is ok but when accelerating the power is too harsh too much low end grunt......its not just a heavy trigger finger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Try a 21 turn 540. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveU30 Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 FYI the link in E02 is dead (Great guide by the way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Had a look in the guide and couldn't see anything regarding wire thickness. Am I ok to use 16g wire in my trail/crawler SCX10? I'm running a 21.5t brushless motor on 2S only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesk Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Had a look in the guide and couldn't see anything regarding wire thickness. Am I ok to use 16g wire in my trail/crawler SCX10? I'm running a 21.5t brushless motor on 2S only. Should be ok, the amp draw of a 21.5t isn't high... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Should be ok, the amp draw of a 21.5t isn't high... Thanks Charles, soldered it up today but still have a few bits n bobs to do before I test run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark4180 Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 I've just been charging my nimh batteries with a normal 4 hour charger, I didn't realise there was so much too it! I've been looking at an IMAX b6, are these any good? I'm hoping my batteries won't be damaged, I haven't had them long and have never top up charged them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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