Leopard 4274 2000kv & Hobbywing 150a esc: Help with missing screws and broken on/off switch

[MAZ]

You wally lol

I've contacted the person I got it from and am now waiting for a response...

Edited March 19, 2012 by MAZ

[sacko]

Have I missed something?

What's wrong with the motor? Just looks like dirt.. Could you clean it up and take some more pics?

Where's the original for sale ad?

[Turner Boy]

Have I missed something?

What's wrong with the motor? Just looks like dirt.. Could you clean it up and take some more pics?

Where's the original for sale ad?

yes, the end can screws are chuffed also, also rust on the bearings = bad!

[MAZ]

I've just sent a message basically saying that i'll get the bearings and 2 missing screws - if the bearings end up being ridicuously expensive then it'll be nice to have the cost covered.

I need bearings for my ST so will get the measurements/dimensions and add them to my order.

The 2 screws will be peanuts too.

I'm going to finish the conversion first - not much left to do now - yay!

Then give it a run, if it was just a bit of dirt and light surface rust then no problem. As long as it works as it should then i'm fine with that.

I will take the rotor out while i'm waiting for bits to arrive, just to check - for that I just need a coke can, cut it up a bit then slide it between the rotor and magnets? It should just pull out?

May need some in depth explanation on that if i've got it wrong - I dont want to break anything.

I'm trying to be fair about this. The seller sounds like a genuine guy and i'd rather just see the esc and motor in action before taking it further.

Does that sound fair to everyone?

Edited March 20, 2012 by MAZ

[sacko]

Huh?! Its a used motor from a 1/8th truggy, it's a

Edited March 20, 2012 by sacko

[suicideneil]

Used & abused would be a more accurate description- rusty, with stripped / missing screws. Changing bearings is not something you should need to do unless they actually get gritty or start to seize ( say, due to being ran in dirty water & not cleaned off afterwards ).

You might be happy to buy something in that condition, I wouldn't though.

[sacko]

If the OP hasn't even stripped the motor, how can we tell if the bearings are knackered?..

I can't see where the OP mentions the screws have stripped the threads?

The only FACTS so far, is that there is 1 screw missing, with some light dirt/surface rust on it (most of which was shown on the original ad).

If you looked at any of my gear, you would realise I wouldn't accept anything less than perfect; hence only buying new.

If the OP wanted perfect, he should have bought new; not just expected it.

Edited March 20, 2012 by sacko

[sacko]

Just re-read the post.

The bearings aren't even faulty from what the OP has said; he asks 'should they be changed if it has been used'.

[MAZ]

@ sacko - I had some concerns with what I bought as I don't know very much about brushless motors. I just wanted some advice from people who knew more than I do about this.

I'm not after it being perfect as i'm fully aware that its second hand - as i've already said.

I want it to work as it should - thats all. I've been in touch with the seller and we're both cool.

I'm gonna check out the bearings tonight - still not sure bout the coke can thing - any advice on that?

Gonna put my truggy back together then give it a go - if all works well, then alls good

[sacko]

I can understand your concers, thats fair enough, but people aren't stating the facts in this thread.

At no mention, does it say the bearings are shot, threads have been stripped e.t.c; yet people are posting this, destroying a members credability.

If there is no actual damage to the magnets or the stator, the motor will run hassle free.

Bearings IMO will need to be changed at some point on any brushless motor in a 1/8th buggy. Chance are you will be running a metal pinion onto a metal spur gear; hardly the smoothest contact area and bearings will wear. It happens, fortunately they are only

[Turner Boy]

I can understand your concers, thats fair enough, but people aren't stating the facts in this thread.

At no mention, does it say the bearings are shot, threads have been stripped e.t.c; yet people are posting this, destroying a members credability.

If there is no actual damage to the magnets or the stator, the motor will run hassle free.

Bearings IMO will need to be changed at some point on any brushless motor in a 1/8th buggy. Chance are you will be running a metal pinion onto a metal spur gear; hardly the smoothest contact area and bearings will wear. It happens, fortunately they are only

[sacko]

You not used the search tool on here before? I found the user first time.

Course they wont Yet they have all been fine in my Helis, engines, motors, cars etc.

Go for SKF if you want, they're a good quality bearing; but do you think thats what Leopard, HPI, Lossi, Mugen put in them from factory? Course not, yet they all seem fine too..

RCBearings have provided me with excellent bearings over the years.

Edited March 20, 2012 by sacko

[MAZ]

Yeah, but what about the coke can? (other brands are available)

Do I sound nuts?

I cut it (brand name can of fizzy pop) so it fits between the rotor and magnet - then I should be able to pull the rotor out? Do I need to unscrew that remaining screw at the end where the 3 wires are?

Is there anything that I need to watch out for, remove, put in place etc before attempting to remove the rotor?

[sacko]

From memory the bearings are in the caps, simple case of pulling them off.

Spin it up first, you will be able to hear if they are shot.

Do you have any light oil? Squirt that in there too.

They come packed with grease, but once this thins out you should add some light oil every so often (Scorpion recommend every 6 uses!).

Personally, I would spin it up; seems a fuss over nothing.

[MAZ]

GT85 okay to use? Might have some 3-in-1 (with added teflon) somewhere...

[sacko]

3in1 would be more suited.

I use the Scoprion oil, failing that Tri-flo do some good stuff..

[Revorocks]

Yeah, but what about the coke can? (other brands are available)

Do I sound nuts?

I cut it (brand name can of fizzy pop) so it fits between the rotor and magnet - then I should be able to pull the rotor out? Do I need to unscrew that remaining screw at the end where the 3 wires are?

Is there anything that I need to watch out for, remove, put in place etc before attempting to remove the rotor?

Yes mate just slide the sheet of can in between the rotor and magnet, rock the rotor so it is resting on the bit of can, then slide it out. The rotor is not held in with anything else so there are no more screws to remove. It will require a bit of force as the magnets hold it in.

[Matt B]

I've always just pulled the rotor out by the shaft with a pair of pliers, always worked fine but isn't easy on the big motors

[Turner Boy]

I've always just pulled the rotor out by the shaft with a pair of pliers, always worked fine but isn't easy on the big motors

you needed pliers

[MAZ]

Just a quick update - took the cap off - the one the bearing sits in. Gave it a clean up and put some 3-in-1 in the bearing.

Seems fine

Took the remaining screw out to get the size and tried to put it in the other holes - they dont line up - its shifted on the inside. I'll get a pic or two up after the kids are in bed.

If theres only one screw in place is it going to be a problem when running the motor?

Thanks

[MAZ]

As you can hopefully see the screw holes dont line up anymore - is it going to cause problems further down the line if theres only one screw in place?

I checked youtube and the 3 screws hold the cap in place so thats cool. took it off - check the bearing which seemed okay and put it back on.

Looks like the 2 screws worked themselves loose over time and fell out. So just need to find sone tiny screws now.

One thing though - the third, centre screw hole has been threaded - the screw has no grip now. not really sure what to do? Tiny dollop of red threadlock with the screw maybe?

Edited March 21, 2012 by MAZ

[sacko]

How was it threaded? Surely if it was firmly in position before you remvoved it, it was fine.

...or where the barrel has twisted slightly, and where you've removed it 'at an angle', its threaded it.

Red loctite all three screws in place and it will be fine.

[MAZ]

Heya sacko, yeah the barrell was slightly twisted so when I removed the one screw holding the end cap in place and after i'd taken the cap off - cleaned off the crud from the bearing (put a dab of 3-in-1 on it too) and put the cap back on (with the holes now aligned) I found the screw sat loosely in the hole.

Tried the same screw in the other 2 holes and it tightens just fine.

Have ordered some M2.5 x 5mm (or 6mm, cant remember - it was late) to replace the lost screws. May have to grind them down a bit though or get shims if the screws are too long.