jony nitro Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 You coming Sunday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 No Jony, I'm going to have to miss this one. I was working on getting home for the 1st, there is no way I can make it home a week early. So i'm working towards getting home for the open day now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMB5MIHcgQo&feature=youtu.be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jony nitro Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 ok, hope your well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 If ok can I take you up on those hub spacers, just ping me a email with how much you want for them and I can paypal the money when you return. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 If ok can I take you up on those hub spacers, just ping me a email with how much you want for them and I can paypal the money when you return. thanks No probs, I'll give you a shout when I get home. Could knock out a few more as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) Hi, Welcome to the world of the Vader. You will see a massive difference when you get the 11.1v Lipos, I was very disappointed when I first ran mine on a pair of 7.4 borrowed from the model shop. I get some Redcat parts in from the US, I found that the Redcat front arms feel softer and more springy, so seem to be taking the impacts better at about 1/3 of the price. The Vader spares are fairly expensive in the UK at the moment, although I'm fortunate to have a model shop that looks after me. You can fit various bodyshells to the chassis, although the proper shell is designed to be close fitting, which keeps the dirt out nicely. I have fitted self adhesive Velcro to the shell where it touches the chassis, this makes the shell much stronger and does away using the body clips. The hub spacers are something I knocked up for myself on the lath, I do have a spare set on the bench at home. I'm away from home for another couple of weeks, but if you fancy them let me know and I'll sort it when I return. As for upgrades, the Redcats do have a faster motor fitted, other than that the larger pinion is well worth fitting as the stock one leaves the top end just a little below the top end of the tuned petrol cars. You need some Y leads if you want to run 4 lipos linked together for longer run times, Other than that, I don't know what you can add, the doesn't seem to be many hopups for them yet. Cheers. Just an update to let you know you were right, 2x 11.1 lipos and what a difference!!!!! won't bother with the 7.4 again!!! what would be the maximum you could run? got the y leads so need a couple more batteries but just curious to know if 11.1v is the limit or can I push it!!! (also got some lovely red, black shock socks to fit), will try and put pics on at some point!!! Edited March 24, 2012 by Theboss1973 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 TBH I don't know if you can go any higher on the voltage. Might be worth checking with the guys at HPI, they are pretty good. I do run two pairs of batteries piggy backed to give extra run times. Its worth fitting dirt shield to the rear lower arms, as they get plastered with all the dirt the front wheels throw back. Is would be good to have some sort of wheel scrapper as well as they get stuffed up with muck when on clay type soils, but there isn't a lot of the inner rim that is cleanable as the spokes project back quite a bit. Thats the next bit to sort out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Hi Spriggan, looking at your Vader I note your Polypropylene battery holders, I take it you made these yourself, been looking on ebay at Polypropylene sheets etc, (sorry to copy your ideas but you seem very knowledgable on all these mods and I bow down to that superior know how)!! I now have four 11.1v lipo packs and the Y leads so just about to link them up although I ordered the slightly smaller sized packs which means the velcro only holds in one place so slight mod needed there!!! cheers mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Don't know about superior know how, I just get by somehow! I knocked up the protective holders as I'm using soft case lipo's due to the price, the hard case that should be used in the cars do cost a fair bit more, and when you need 6 packs it would have worked out too expensive. I have had the batteries break loose in the car a few times when the car has gone end over end, which is a bit of a worry, so I do want to devise a more secure way of supporting them in the holders, while still allowing for a fast battery change. One thing I have learnt is not to stack the batteries one on top of the other as they are more likely to slip around. The soft case packs will fit in the holders side by side which holds them much firmer, but still needs some improvement. Any Lipos I buy in the future will be the hard case type, probably the 6 cell packs as they will fit better and give me the full run time available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Good reviews of the vader chaps i'm very tempted but out of my price range at the moment, how are you finding parts availability/breakages? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Good to reed so much about the vader, i was posting on another heading as i got this car about 8 weeks ago now and its pretty awesome. I'm currently running it on 2 x 3s 6500 25C, i've now got 2 sets for longer run times and they are real good. I have had some breaks though: I've been forced to change the front left lower suspension arm and its pin, lost a few grub screws and the top hats of both front castor blocks that all need a good dose of thread lock to keep em in, i've broken my rear wing too but i'm not too bothered about that as its only cosmetic... along with a crack in the body shell, but i'll put some velcro on that like you have done and that should do the job. I've also cracked two rear wheels and split a tyre! Because i just carried on driving with a bust/wonky wheel 1 of the rear bearing has disintegrated! stripped the other one down and its also on its way out!!! On the plus side i have a new set of treds that are gona be here on Monday along with new bearings and a new 11T gear for the motor so this is me gearing up, hopefully it will be even more mental than it already is! I've not yet put on any mud guards, but its definatly a must as the rear running gear gets completly caked! here are a couple of videos that i made the other weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Spares are quite expensive, and not always easy to find but they are defo worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Just thought I would note down any problems and Improvements I find with the Vader XB. 1st Problem I found was that there are no spacers between the bearing in the hubs. That means if the wheel nuts are pulled up tight, the wheel squares slide back into the outer baring and with no spacer to stop the bearing pulling together, they get pinched together which adds resistance to the wheels and wears the bearings quicker. I need to find or make some 3.5mm thick spacers with a 10mm bore. The first thing to change on the Vader is the stock Mavrick steering servo for a decent quality one. The new HiTec HS-5765MH is the new replacement for the good old Rino Digi4, and is roughly the same size as the stock Mavrick servo, although the ends are squared rather than rounded. As the mounts are made to fit the rounded ends of the Mavrick servo, they need to be trimmed out to take the square ends of the upgrade servo. The mounting holes are also closer together on the HiTec servo, so one of the mounting holes have to be repositioned, I went for the lower hole, as this keeps the servo clear of the deck so it doesn't rub or vibrate on the chassis. The HiTec Alloy servo arm is a bit shorter that the stock arm, but the HiTec servo has more throw which more than compensates for the shorter arm. I haven't found anything wrong with the stock servos, how come you changed them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Hay VG, I changed the Stock servo over nearly as soon as I got the car as the HiTec servo's are a bit quicker which makes a difference on the track when you need quick change of direction. They are also just better quality, and they sound better. I also added to my breakage list when I took mine bashing the there week. Took the new wing mount out in a couple of minutes with a heavy landing, then split a out drive cup on the front diff when I bumped into an overturned Baja. Put the Baja back on its wheels but took the vader out of action for the day! When it comes to the spare parts I get some for my local model shop, where I have a special arrangement, some I get from the US from various Redcat suppliers as they are cheaper than HPI parts, and I even found a supplier in Hong Kong who was selling replacement wheel and tire sets for about half the UK price, although he seems to be out of stock at the moment. There are also a few Alloy upgrade parts coming on the market now although the Alloy wing mount looks a bit on the light side, http://www.ebay.com/itm/710012-Redcat-Rampage-XBE-XB-E-Carson-Attack-XXL-1-5-Brushless-Free-world-ship-/320831106735?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab3062eaf#ht_971wt_1272 I cant see that lasting me very long before I would bend it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Yeah that defo does look a bit on the light side, tbh i think yo might of had a bit of bad luck with your wing mout as mine has taken a fair bit of bashing so far and only a small corner of the top plate has snapped off, as for the spoiler it's self, well it's bound to break at some point i guess. But as for the outdrive cup!!!! wow bet u were gutted aye!!! Point taken for the servo, i might give mine an early retirement. Thats cool that you've found some more suppliers, have you got any links mate as the pounds are slowly turning into a small fortune! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Get Your part numbers off the Redcat list, http://www.redcatracing.com/Search-2012?a891=RAMPAGEXBE&a254=&a845=&a293=&a277=&a922=&a146=1&a386=pi then search on Ebay.com to see where you can get the best price. But remember to keep the price of the parts below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 OMG, I have just seen the price of a replacement wing, http://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-moulded-black-rear-wing-vader-xb-/rc-car-products/367466 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jony nitro Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Changed has it, it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Thanks for the tip aye. The spare are pretty expensive for the Vader but i do think that will change in 6 months time when there are a lot more out there... Hey there is a guy on a different forum who has just plugged his battery packs in and got a load of sparks from his deans and then nothing! any ideas? Here is the link if your able to help http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/136279-maverick-vader-xb-rc-buggy/page__fromsearch__1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 http://www.southwatercycles.com/products.php I found these guys also do Vader spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Yep you can get a small (well not that small) spark when you plug in the second battery even when the switch is off, if the capacitors are discharged in the controller, as they hold a bit of charge all the time. Its the same as if you turn the switch on without the battery connected there is enough power held withing the controller to make the cooling fan spin for a second or two. You get an even bigger spark if you connect the batteries up in the wrong order if charging them in pairs on a split board, I've blown 2 Deans plugs apart doing that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Wow, but its a bit stange that he's not getting anything after the spark! I wonder if the car was turned on whilst conecting them, might have blown the esc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Btw Spriggan have you got anymore of those spacers please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Yep, I can knock a couple of set out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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