vaderman Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) thanks noj, i don't have an ir gun, but have been in rc for quite some years(planes,helis), the motor is definately turning hot, after a few seconds, well to be precise, after i stop running it, i can feel the can turning warmer and warmer until it's almost to the point where i cannot hold on to the motor anymore, i must note that i also did slow triggering, so trying to let the drivetrain startup as slow as possible and keeping it at this low throttle setting for a few seconds, perhaps it is due to that ? as for the motor, the bearing seemed smooth and turning the shaft by hand prior to installation also felt natural. stock spur and pinion used. soldering,i joined all the bullet connectors on the esc meaning it's a wire joint on al 3 wires, as well as on the 2 wires of the battery side on the esc, all are joined wires, the soldering is done properly but could it let the motor heat up so much ? even if the soldering is done properly. the other thing i thought about is wires being too long ? my wires are a bit longer maybe 2 or three cm longer than normal, could that really cause the heat up. the esc heatsink becomes warm but not hot. Finally, perhaps i should just put the wheels on and go drive it, and not stay at slow throttle sttings for too long, i still did not take her out as i had to charge the batteries and had to go to the shops when i returned it was already dark so will go drive the car tomorrow soon as i get a chance. i really hope she'd be ok once on the road outside, i really worked hard on this machine for 3 months. Edited January 19, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Over heating was the main problem with mine. It needed to run at 6s to get the speed, although some were running on 5s and finding it ok.... I felt it was the gearing that was at fault. At the time I was running the Vader, Castle motors had hit an all time low having changed suppler. so we were all waiting for Sirius (who used to make Castle) to release their 1717 motor. It was unfortunately too higher KVA to run on 6s. I fitted the smallest pinion I could find but it was still over geared on 6S. The only option was to change to a finer tooth pitch and have a larger spur gear machined out to fit the center diff. That would have given me a much wider range of gearing available..... The other problem back then was the ESC, the hobbywing 150 was the recommended controller, but wasn't man enough for hard use. the only 200amp ESC at the time was the Castle 200, but at the time this wasn't reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) Thanks Sprig With the castle motor, mine is the black one, i want to know is, if i give it throttle, is the drivetrain suppose to "freewheel" after i let go of the throttle on the bench, or does everything stop the split second i release the throttle, this is what mine is doing, it stops once i release the throttle with now freewheeling, is it normal motor cogging ? Should it be like this or is there something wrong, i can turn the drivetrain with the motor connected turning the cups with my fingers on the middle shaft, but it's not so easy, i don't have drag brake enabled, however i am now going to go through all the settings again to make double sure, i knew from the start it was going to run hot, but this hot ? perhaps its just how it is and i did not actually realise it will run this hot from the get go, i have a fan that i am going to connect directly (via epoxy) to the motor, as i don't have anything else, i hope it will help, but first now going to go through all the settings again Edited January 19, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Does this look and sound right ? I only gave it half throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) I reckon u have sum binding sum where.. or esc setting wrong maybe . ..it shouldn't stop like that ..Here's my dbxl when it was brushless....castle xl2 780kv 8s... .u can hear it gradually slow down once the throttle is released. ... Edited January 19, 2017 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Agreed, something is not right there. How tight is the spur/pinion mesh? Holding the pinny, there should be 1mm of play when moving the spur. Be helpful if you had another can to try..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) i adjusted the pinion so there is some play meaning if i move the spur it would wiggle side to side very slightly without touching the pinion, but just a little, should it wiggle a bit more ? i have the standard stock motor, but it does not fit the pinion as the shaft is thinner so cannot mount it, maybe i should add more of a gap between pinion and spur, i'll go try do that and see. Evssv i see yours looks just right, mine's definately not like that, thanks for posting the vid.....shees i hope it's the pinion mesh... let me go see thanks noj too, i will take another vid hopefully with better results, i went through the esc settings and all the brake and drag settings are at zero except brake itself is at 25% Edited January 19, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 As long as there is a small amount of play, the mesh should be ok.... Duff motor is sounding more likely..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) And duff motor it is spot on Noj, i could smell the motor before even taking it apart that something's not good in there and low and behold after much hammering i got the shaft to move and slide out, the magnets are to pieces about 4, the sad part is i have a good stator part as a spare for this motor but in the process of removing the old shaft, the broken magnets tore some of the windings....granted i must say i was warned by the original owner the motor he is going to give me has been repaired with an epoxy job, unfortunately it did not stand the test of actual use, but at least he was generous to give me the motor which i was very thankful for, now... he also gave me the stock motor it hink it's 980kv's yes ? Is what i need a copper bushing/spacer to fit inside the pinion so it will fit the shaft ?, anyone know where i can get one of those ? And is the stock motor ok or just not worth it ? I'm running 6s 6400 mah batteries. Edited January 19, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 What bore is the pinny and what size shaft? Wouldn't make a spacer from brass, too soft. Ally/stainless better. Can't advise any further on a suitable combo I'm afraid.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 np thanks i will see if i can find some sort of a machine shop nearest to the outskirts, and take the motor and pinion with and see if they could make me something up. Going to be a while as it's going to take time to find a place to do it, so will reply back once it's been done. I guess i will just have to be happy with the stock motor at least the car is rebuilt and good to go. i looked at some motors on ebay oo leopard 1400kv, 4068 1400KV 4Y ø 5.0mm MODELLI RC 1/8 HIMOTO but not sure if they worth it, i'll get the stock motor going and be happy with it, hopefully it will be ok on 6s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) ok resized the pinion and all is installed, just about to go i found that turning the wheels the right front wheel is buckled/warped. is it a bad idea to drive like that or will it be ok ? can it be fixed or should i bin it ? Edited January 27, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 it seems like the brand new 4 wheels i got for the car is also not 100% true, at full throttle the car bounces on it's belly with all 4's in the air, no bent axles, i guess i just need to run them like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) WHOOOOHOOO.... !!!!!!!!!!!! This baby punches straight down the line !! ! !! Had my first run with her on tar road, and my QUESTION, why does everyone want to change the stock motor !!!!! ! She's just fine on the stock Motor, you could spin all 4 on the road i had it on it's mildest settings ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! NOW.... can anyone tell me what i can bump up on the esc, don't want to smoke the motor, so far so good, i have a hobbywing quickrun, almost same as the zerun i think, i'm on the lowest settings although it's perfect, it would be nice to just have a little more power and would 50% on brake be ok ?............. And the inertia this things has, had a few scary stops where i was quickly running out of space and she will slide quite wide and far if you're not careful ! ! What a BEAST SO HAPPY!!!!!!! Edited January 29, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 50% braking strength is fine. You can turn up the punch setting, which affects how quickly power is applied when the throttle is mashed....Too much wheelspin won't help temps though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) Thank you sir, going to up to 50% brake and one level up on punch, surprisingly motor temps have been fine, though i did not run the whole pack and not full throttle all the time but thats how i drive, the big worry is the tires getting grinded like stone, only on my first run afterwards i could already see a layer loss on the knobs, i bet i'll go through these tyres in 4 or 5 rides on the road, so i guess i'll have to find me a grass park, would be nice to have on roads, the baja upgrade is pricey, i wonder if the redcat xb has on roads, will go have a look, i made a custom fan (the type anyone can "custom" make ) i have taken a pc graphics card sink and fan, bent the heatsink and stuck it straight onto the motor,can't wait for the weekend and it's only monday ! ! Still amazed by the power of this beast, i could make her do 360s in the road with a twitch of the finger, which would in turn of course, grind the rubber to the rim just as quickly though so won't do it. Edited January 30, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Knobbly tyres and tarmac don't get on well..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) ok something odd to me anyway, anybody know what it could be, today i drove another pack out on the road, halfway through the steering act strange, i cold turn fine to the one side but virtually no steering to the other side, picked up the car and found the servo saving mechanism seems to be tight turning left but i could easily turn the wheels with my hand to the right without the servo moving, the servo is fine. Any ideas ? also strange the esc seemed to hesitate to start the motor halfway through, i'm not sure if it is esc overheat or lvc, the esc seemed relatively cool on the last drive, this time i added the body so not sure how hot it became, but the motor seems to be getting quite warm, not sure if one could classify it as "hot" Edited February 3, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) Think i got the steering sorted, seems like the servo saver loosened up to the top by itself ?, maybe i should add a litlle loctite after adjusting it, as to the slight hesitant startup, the packs read 12.20 volts, so clearly they are still strong, all i can think of is motor overheat, but the esc won't know if the motor's overheated so strange, very strange.... i wonder if the timing is off that when the motor heats up it pushes the timing off by a little margin, it's on 11 degrees at the moment with the stock vader motor. Edited February 3, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 upped timing to 15 degrees, now she purrs like a wicked kitten perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 (edited) Please can anyone confirm if i do or do not have a problem with my Maverick Vader ? I recently noticed (not that i ever looked) however when running the car on the bench with the wheels spinning freely, when i turn the wheels with my finger the mainshaft seems to not turn (true) it turns as if bent (moves up and down slightly) I recently replace the mainshaft ,and i was not in a crash at all so how can it be bent ? (both the cups which connect to the shaft at both sides spins 100% true so it is not the cups.) Now i noticed there is a slight up and down play with the mainshaft seated in the cups, is it normal and could that be the cause or is the maishaft actually bent. Should the shaft on these big cars run 100% true ? Do they have play and if so is it the play that causes the shaft to not turn true ? I recently had an incident it actually happened three times, where the car spooled up to full speed on the table when the radio was switched off, out of shock i picked it up and aimed to switch off the esc switch but in that time the car had given me rubber burns on my arms, it never stalled but there was pressure put on the wheels obviously as i frantically tried to switch off the car, not something i'd like to experience again, but could such an instance bend the main 4wd shaft ? Edited February 12, 2018 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Anyone ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 could someone perhaps check if theirs is doing the same ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Don't think many or any people on here have a Vader any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) Seems a bit quiet on here now dont it!!! but then this thread has been running over 5 years. There is nothing unusual about getting a bit of play in the dogbones VM. So long as the drive cups are tight and the bearings are good there is nothing much to worry about. My profile is about 3 years out of date as well!!! Edited February 14, 2018 by Spriggan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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