Tug Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz............ Huh? Sorry, dozed off there, what'd I miss? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 (edited) Hi all It is my first time on this site. I recently redid a vader from almost scratch as i bought it from someone who put it through lots of dirt, but it's clean now after 3 months of redoing it. Can anyone tell me if the grub screws on the lower arms is really neccesary ? I don't like the idea of it knocking on the lower plate everytime the suspension works, i can see bitemarks from it. what will happen if i take out he grub screws ? Edited January 16, 2017 by vaderman change sentence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hay, my old thread is still going!!!! If you mean the droop screws, same as with any car, if you take them out they will not reduce the amount of travel the arms have, (not that really do a great deal), so the travel is limited by the length of the shock. In a heavy roll over, the full force of the impacts on the top of the wheel is then taken solely by the shock shaft, which can result in the lower ball joint splitting or ripping off the shaft. The droop screws do help a little in protecting against that happening, plus it doest effect the handling if the wheels drop too far when jumping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 (edited) Thanks Spriggan, it sure is ! to you guys this thread is in the past, but to me it's like it's been going from yesterday, an awesome thread, i have taken a lot of time to read every single post on here while i rebuilt this beautiful beast, and at times drove me almost crazy (no jokes), as i like stuff to be very clean. Luckily when i bought this monster used, i got a fresh pair of 4 original wheels and tyres with it, 2 bodies, one redcat and one vader one, and the original owner gave me a castle 1717 for it, i am so happy to have gotten this all, especially where i come from in south africa, these machines are rare. Yes i think we are talking about the same thing, so the plan is, because i am going to drive her like an old lady,(because i cannot afford spares lol) not to do jumps an roll overs, just street zipping up and down and driving it on rugby fields, maybe just maybe light jumps, would it be ok to leave the grubs out then, they don't affect anything else ie they are just there so the suspension arms don't rip out in a hard rollover ? .....aargh perhaps i should just put them back,i guess they just need to be screwed in as deep until it touches the chassis when all 4 wheels are in the air ? Edited January 17, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 (edited) put em bak I say......jus leave em flush with bottom of the arms....not worth risking the shoxs imo... Edited January 16, 2017 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Yep, in reality they dont do a great deal, but still worth leaving them in. And I bet youll be just like the rest of us and start driving harder than you mean to. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Ok thanks will do that then, flush with the arms, so it does not need to stick out ? ie does not need to touch the lower plate ? Sorry i know i'm dragging this out some, however i don't exactly know how it works, it makes sense that it saves the shock, but how deep does it need to go in to save the shock ? It would be nice to leave it flush as then i would think with normal use (non jumps/rolls/crashes) the grub will not touch the lower plate at all ? Edited January 17, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Turn the screws out so that they just touch the chassis, leaving the arm clear. Check position, then adjust if required until all four corners sit correctly. The chassis chewing is par for the course. On large-scale (Losi 5ive) common practice is to stick 5p pieces to the chassis under the droop screws.....Not practical on anything smaller..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Thanks, so what you saying is i need to turn the grubs in until the lower arms does not touch the lower plate ? I'll go re-check but i don't think the lower arms is touching the lower plate, even without the grub screws screwed in. And then when that is done on all 4 arms, i need to re check all of them so that the arms are all in the same level ? not fimiliar with the term 5p, is it like double sided tape or vinyl ? Edited January 17, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 5p as in a five pence piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 3 hours ago, Noj said: Turn the screws out so that they just touch the chassis, leaving the arm clear. Check position, then adjust if required until all four corners sit correctly. The chassis chewing is par for the course. On large-scale (Losi 5ive) common practice is to stick 5p pieces to the chassis under the droop screws.....Not practical on anything smaller..... I guess this Would work On My db Then?As It's Chewed up there Already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Yup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 14 minutes ago, Noj said: Yup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Thanks guys... noj aaaa i see i am from south africa that's why i did not get it. now i know what 5p is Thanks for the help. Edited January 17, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Is anyone still running their Vaders or have they become extinct entirely ? i have just finished up the esc wire soldering 30 min ago, will be using a hw quickrun 150 amp esc, from what i read on here is that i need to set all my settings to the lowest possible on the esc, please intervene with my decision if i am wrong, i guess one does not want the motor to go full coals, worried about motor temps but will do short runs at a time 3 mins rest/ 3 mins rest etc. Edited January 17, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Sold my vader ages ago it just didn't anything for me was slow and uninspiring. You wouldn't want ALL settings on lowest so which ones are you referring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) Slow ? most everyone said the car goes ballistic with a 1717 even with the settings down, and that one has to absolutely turn down the settings, this car is totally inspiring to me as if a 1/5 version of my old school nostalgic hotshot ! got aalll the pretty lines i like, perhaps someone that has the castle1717 on it could comment ? This is what i found earlier in this thread, should i stick to this (i'm using a hw 150 quickrun esc which i believe is the later version of the ezrun so almost the same ?) Perhaps just reduce brake force to 25% ? 1/ Running Mode... (2) F/R with brake 2 Drag break.... (2) 5% 3/ Cut off threshold... (5) 3.2v 4/ Start Mode.... (1) level 1 5/ Brake force.... (2) 50% 6/ Reverse Force... (1) 25% 7/ Initial brake force..(1) = Drag force 8/ Neutral mode... (2) 9% 9/ Timing.... (2) 3.75deg 10. Overheat Protection.. (1) Enable 11/ Motor rotation... (2) Clockwise 12/ Lipo cells. 1. Auto "Nice one Ninja, Have you got yourself a program card as well? they are much easier to make the adjustments to the ESC than using the set button, and you will need to turn the ESC setting down with the 1717 motor on board.A new 40w soldering iron" "I have the Sirius 1717 and yes great motor, but it turned the 5000 c35 batts to bloated lumps of putty, it even heated the 4.8 Nano Techs to way above normal levels, and shortened the battery life so much that I couldn't even finish a race. But it all seemed fine just poodleing around at half speed! start at 3.4 as you have, you'll soon know if it's cutting early." Edited January 18, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I never said I was running the 1717 so was running stock setup. I would start lvc at 3.4v what lips are you going to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) o ok np, i know it's slow with stock motor, it seems like i have the very same nano tech's everyone ran back then so the person i got it from must've read these threads, they are two 6400 mah, 40-80c 3s packs, hope they are still good, but will see soon. Thanks will try the lvc at 3.4 and see what happens. Edited January 18, 2017 by vaderman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 3.4...I'd go 3.6 if it were me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Thanks guys, ok so i just hooked everything up but something's wrong, i bench tested the throttle with wheels off and in the air, after only a few seconds the motor became hot, is this due to no load ? or could it be that the 3.75 degree timing is wrong or something else, it would've most certainly burned out if i had kept it running for around 15 seconds longer. the pinion mesh seems fine, and i can turn the shafts by hand meaning i don't feel much resistance in the drivetrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 perhaps i should just put the wheels and go for a drive, lets see how it goes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'd put it all bak to standard setting to b safe ..unless u've already cooked it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaderman Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 i wanted to go but found the wheel nuts were rusted up, derusted them now, and busy putting on the wheels, i increased the timing to 17, its still the same, if it's not due to full power with no load which might be a possibility, i'm flat out of ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Running up to full throttle, briefly, on a bench shouldn't adversely affect temps as you are experiencing.... So, provided that without the can the drivetrain is smooth with no binding, what does that leave: way over geared, vastly incorrect timing, poor soldering, duff motor..... Have you checked the temps of packs and ESC to ascertain where they sit? Are you using an I/R temp gun or your finger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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