Theboss1973 Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) got my programme card, what settings do most people use??? Edited June 6, 2012 by Theboss1973 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 got my programme card, what settings do most people use??? Are you running the stock esc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 I will let you know how mine hold up as the only 2 differences in our set up are the 11t and the MM esc. Could it be just a weak solder? I may be using a slightly soft solder, but it seems the be the heat in the plug contact that is melting the plug then the solder. The other thing I found tonight was that I ran all the 5000mah batts down to cut off point, but when I put them on the charger to put them in STORE mode, the charge in the battery was too high, the charger had to discharge them to the storage level. So I have knocked the cut off level of the ESC down a notch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Ouch, so do you recon the batteriess are damaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Are you running the stock esc? Yea, Ezrun hobbywing 150a pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 cool, if you write out the options i can tell you what i had on mine, it's just i have't got mine with me at the moment aye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 1/ Running Mode... (2) F/R with brake 2 Drag break.... (2) 5% 3/ Cut off threshold... (5) 3.2v 4/ Start Mode.... (1) level 1 5/ Brake force.... (2) 50% 6/ Reverse Force... (1) 25% 7/ Initial brake force..(1) = Drag force 8/ Neutral mode... (2) 9% 9/ Timing.... (2) 3.75deg 10. Overheat Protection.. (1) Enable 11/ Motor rotation... (2) Clockwise 12/ Lipo cells. 1. Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 The only different setting i had to that was the drag brake set at 0% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_scot_nanny Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) Haha PMSL!!! Sorry but that is a bit funny lol I do hope there not knackered tho Cheers! Think they are OK. Different Q if you guys don't mind: what bits are you breaking from the car? I want to buy a job lot of spares, and am wondering what would be best. For my emaxx, I keep (although less now that got RPM stuff on) bulkheads, skid plates and suspension arms. What is likely to go bye-bye on xb-e? I will get f/r suspension arms, a bag of replacement screws... what else? Ta muchly! Oh yeah, and single fan fitted, makes quite a difference to temps of the motor, and again, good lord, this is a seriously fast car with that CC1717. Oooooh! Kev Edited June 7, 2012 by big_scot_nanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 hmmm, now that i have the car fitted with the aluminium parts i'm hoping i don't need many spares at all... But with that said i keep a set of lover suspension arms (boiled in the kettle to remove the brittleness), lover hinge pins, tyres + wheels, spare pinion and a selection of various nuts, screws and washers. That does it for me. With the 1717 fitted it's absolutley mental but you really need to look after the running gear because without a doubt that is what will let the car down now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 set of lover suspension arms (boiled in the kettle to remove the brittleness), lover hinge pins What are Lover suspension arms like then Guy????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) But yep, Lower front and rear arms, and a set of the little bits the bottom of the shock goes into might be wise as the threads are prone to stripping out of them. I do need to get a stronger front shock tower, as mine has bent a couple of time when the car is planted upside down into the ground at high speed.... Oh yeah, wing mounts, I have done a couple of them in, and it prob worth having a spare set of drive cups and CVD shafts. Other than that, I need to replace all my suspension bushes as they are starting to get a bit slack, and then the steering rack & ball joints are starting to get a bit floppy, but that's just maintenance. Do you have a decent supplier out were you are? I get a lot of my bits in from the USA as they are a lot cheaper than buying them in the UK. Edited June 7, 2012 by Spriggan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Haha they have hearts on then and they're also pink!!! lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_scot_nanny Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 I must admit, I thought it was a new brand, like RPM, maybe titanium? There are Redcat dealers in Germany, but stock is poor, waiting times high and price not that good. So, at the moment, buying from rampage shop (Rob Mclean) from whom I bought the car, and having them sent to a mate who then brings them over (rampage shop does not deliver outside US). Anyone you know that has stock and will ship to EU? Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 I just pick things up off US Ebay. most sellers on there will post to the EU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 So i took the car out today to give it some good testing, it was great but i'm having the same problem as Spriggan i.e. the battery conectors coming off. It seems to only happen on the motor side though so i figure that the leads need moving further away from the heat. Gona figure something out, pics to come after more testing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 So i took the car out today to give it some good testing, it was great but i'm having the same problem as Spriggan i.e. the battery conectors coming off. It seems to only happen on the motor side though so i figure that the leads need moving further away from the heat. Gona figure something out, pics to come after more testing... Must be a day for it, gave Vader a run in the park today, first prper run since getting the Nano techs, One of the connections on the deans got warm and came apart, although this was the first time I have ever soldered so I put it down to bad workmanship!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Was it on the motor side? Mate the solders that came off first on mine were done by MS... so can happen to anyone aye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Yea, thats nice to know,!!! More practice of soldering is always a good thing!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 So i took the car out today to do some more testing, same thing again, loose soldering!!! argh!!!! I have my theory that this is happening on impact i.e landing... The reason i say that is because when taking a closer look at the broken circuit it looked like a clean break rather than a smooth solder melt. Anyway, the solder work repaired, (i will also add that the soldering was again one done by MS and not me!!!) i will take it out again for more testing. However the battery packs are good but didn't seem to last very long, 10 mins!!! I have found these lanyards, attached to the clips that make quick work of changing the batteries: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/16451-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/16450-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader guy Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 Not happy right now, took the car out again and got 9 mins on both sets of nano techs!!! WTF arggggggh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 Guys, Been lurking for a while, but now able to post. I got a good deal on a vader off Ebay and mine arrived just before the weekend. At 1/8 scale I run an OFNA GTP2E with the MMM/2200 combo for tarmac / drifting, and an ERBE with the same MMM/2200 for offroad. I tend to run both at 5S as a good balance between speed and controllability. At 1/5 scale I have a 5iveT which after much thought I am keeping on gas, and the idea behind getting the Vader is that plenty of people have had good experiences with it as an electric 1:5th buggy. I took the buggy out this eveing for a blast on loose gravel / cut grass running a pair of 3900 25C 3S lipos and was pleased with it. A little extra Vmax would be nice though. I've read all the stuff from Spriggan and Vader Guy on this thread, seen the vids of vaders running the 1515/2200 and the 1717 motor. I'm dead excited to hear about MSUK stocking the Sirius range of motors and MGM ESCs too. It's nice to have lots of options but I can't now decide what to do. I want a little more torque and Vmax, but not so much that I'm stripping those expensive tyres, melting deans connectors or damaging the drive train. From this point of view, the 2200 with a blower seems the best option, but it just seems wrong to run the same can in my Vader and my ERBE! The sirius version of the 1717 seems like a better size can with oodles of torque for just Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 Hi Ninja, It s always good to hear of a new Vader owner joining our little group. I think we are all just learning as we go with the Vader. Some of the guys bash them, I use mine mainly on the track, currently with more success than I ever managed with a Petrol car. Although I have given it three short bashing sessions on the same set of the Nano 8.4. I did find a supplier for the wheels in Hong Kong at about 1/3 of the price although I not convinced they were the same quality as the foam inserts were shot after only one race session. I'm now running the HPI hubs with Elcon wheels with the stock 10T Pinion, which doesn't seem too bad on temps, and looked pretty good around the track when I gave it a test run at the end of the work weekend. I received my 5mm EC5's today, they look massive compared to the EC3 I have used in the past, they look quite chunky with a contact area of about 78 sq mm compared to the deans with only a contact area of about 36 sq mm, they should take the load a lot better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_scot_nanny Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Not happy right now, took the car out again and got 9 mins on both sets of nano techs!!! WTF arggggggh Wow, not good, what happened? Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Guys Just ordered my Sirius 1717 and some Castle bullets from MSUK. Can't wait for it to arrive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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