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HPI Savage Flux owner club


bulletflux 345

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1 bottle fills all 8 of my shocks and use 50wt but I usually am jumping a lot. The screw you have snapped is a common breakage, buy a new set but drill the hole right through and then use a m3 ish bolt to put right through. Look up Savagejunky on YouTube, he shows a few good DIY mods.

 

Thanks for both of those  - we have the big bore shocks so I think I'll buy a couple of bottles to be on the safe side (i've done a quick estimate based on 1.6cm internal diameter x 7cm stroke = ~14ml per shock). The video link is good too, I'll do that mod rather than try to repair ours

 

Just a quick update from me in case it helps anyone  -

 

- a single 60ml bottle did all 4 big-bore shocks with a bit left over for next time

 

- I used 4 M4x30mm machine screws with nylocs for the bumpers, but drilled the hole with a 3mm drill, this made the screws bite into the plastic for a bit of extra grip. A 3.5mm drill might have been a better choice but I dont have one

Edited by cat7
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Another day, another problem.... this time two of the screws which hold the diff ring gear to the diff case sheared off completely and are stuck in the holes so they cant be easily removed

 

Fortunately I had a spare diff case so after a couple of hours transferring all the internals over it was up and running once more, but yet again I find myself disappointed with the durability of the drivetrain.

 

So much for bulletproof diffs - the ring and pinion may be tougher than the stuff that's on my 2008 nitro savage, but the rest of the internals and the case appear to be the same old stuff as before.

 

Time to start looking into centre diff conversions....

 

BTW has anyone else had these screws shear off - is this a common problem or are we just unlucky (again) ?

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You might find the screws started backing out and the heads were snapped off against the bulkhead. I've had that happen.

I find the stock ally cups ok, but by no means bullet proof. The pinion and crown are fine, but I've heard of other people wrecking those.

CD conversions are good, but the best type will still incorporate a slipper.

Apparently CEN diffs can be fitted in to the front and rear, but require a fair bit of shimming.

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You might find the screws started backing out and the heads were snapped off against the bulkhead. I've had that happen.

I find the stock ally cups ok, but by no means bullet proof. The pinion and crown are fine, but I've heard of other people wrecking those.

CD conversions are good, but the best type will still incorporate a slipper.

Apparently CEN diffs can be fitted in to the front and rear, but require a fair bit of shimming.

I dont think the screws came out far enough to touch the bulkheads but I think you may be partly right; I reckon that they came out enough to allow the crownwheel to move and a hard impact caused a sudden shock load to break the screw heads

 

Ironically, I still have a pair of unused CEN diffs in my spares box that I bought for my nitro Savage but never fitted :whistling: I reckon I'll sell the nitro (which hardly gets used these days) before I ever get round to fitting them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So,.... I fixed the diff, rebuilt the shocks etc etc and two hours of running later one of the bearings on the outside of the rear diff collapsed, allowing the crownwheel and pinion to move in the bulkhead and stripping all the teeth. :angrymad: :angrymad: :angrymad: :angrymad:

 

Edited by cat7
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Whenever you work on a diff, replace the bearings as a matter of course. I keep a stock of them for that purpose. If a hub bearing fails, meh. But when a diff or gearbox bearing fails, disaster.

I definitely will from now on - tomorrows job is to pull the front one out and put new bearings on it too.

 

Any suggestions for repairing the stripped thread ?

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  • 5 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Time to revive this thread, looking for some advice from the Savage owners.

 

Firstly big thanks to the guys already advising me regarding a few things. Youve all been a great help.

 

I just wanted to check wether this is normal flux behaviour (not my video but Im experiencing the same thing).

 

... Without power on the ground, I get some resistance in the wheels and the noise in the video when I nudge the truck. When I lift it in the air and turn the wheels everything sounds good and diffs all seem to be working fine. When I take the top end off the transmission incl slipper with gears in top case and nudge it on the floor it rolls smoothly and quietly.

 

All gears look fine except some wear on the gear set in the top half of the case, Im not sure if its bad enough to cause the issue so thought Id ask here and by the process of elimination its pointing to something in the top half of the transmission. Anyway, the smaller gear has lost the square edge and is now a sharp edge (not so much at the edges), hopefully you can tell in the pics.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

 

 

20160817_220916_zpshcbxmilk.jpg

Edited by Twist
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33 minutes ago, Twist said:

 

Thought that may be the issue, ordered earlier :)

I'm not saying it's the issue. .but as u have said it looks well worn so no point in leavin it in there imo....:good:...And I'd  stick  sum new bearing  in whilst u got it  a part..and chk for any worn/deformed  plastics 

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46 minutes ago, evssv said:

no shims...and I thk I put sum grease in mine....:good:

 

Thanks, so tonights job is to change the slipper pad and install the HD gear set, shouldnt take long. Hope the weathers nice tomorrow.

 

Also thinking about shimming the diffs when I have some real free time, probably never.

Edited by Twist
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2 hours ago, Twist said:

 

Do you guys use any grease in your transmissions? Im guessing something like white lithium on the teeth?

 

Also, did any of you guys shim it?

 

 

All may Savages run dry gearboxes. Instructions dont show grease required.

 

You can shim but too tight can also be a problem.

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That noise I posted seems to be normal for the savage, I changed the slipper pad, checked all tranny gears, shafts and bearings, also upgraded the 18-23t to HD and still it persisted. Did more research and confirmed its just the way it is.


Oh well, learned how to do something new and changed a worn drive set so no real loss... besides not having any time to actually drive the thing over the weekend.

 

fyi, if anyones looking for a skid plate wheelspin has RPM on clearance for under a tenner. Great product imo.

Edited by Twist
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