t5pete Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 ive only got experiance with three hpi cars but the vorza beats them hands down the build quality is brilliant and the parts are so much stronger its really tough and very easy to work on. Also just been out with it for 30mins round the back its quite a large tarmac area and with next to full throttle for 30mins the motor and esc were just hot so with the fans running all the time there deffinatly doing there job i did only have the throttle set at 60% as its just stupidly crazy on 100%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamUk Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) Got out to the park Saturday..and in 10mins of play lost the nut that holds the wheel in place.. Turns out i had put the nuts on the wrong way round!! On Sunday i went to the Track at Fairlop Waters.. was there for about two hours, was fun but freezing...! and my poor vorza looks filthy! Edited January 23, 2012 by SamUk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamUk Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Hope ya all can see this..the Fairlop track.. http://www.maxbashing.com/mbforum/showthread.php?2682-Track-now-finished-Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 What happened to that poor drag racing car!!! Nice track though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamUk Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Pete where did you get your shock covers from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim84 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) this might be of use to you guys template for rear mud guards,taken from rcteck http://www.rctech.ne...ardtemplate.pdf http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/electric-off-road/565424-official-hpi-vorza-flux-1-8-e-buggy-thread-hpqscan0001.jpg Edited January 30, 2012 by Tim84 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzMan Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Thanks for the templates, going to chop some of those out of carbon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim84 Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) what size does the battery tray go up to? would one of these fit http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1438.l2649 silly question, you can run a vorza on single 4s (with deans loop) rather than with a pair of 2s Edited February 3, 2012 by Tim84 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzMan Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 (edited) Edited February 19, 2012 by JazzMan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim84 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 apart from the body and the 2.4ghz what is the difference between the new and older vorza's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcoforever Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 apart from the body and the 2.4ghz what is the difference between the new and older vorza's? been asked so many times, please use search. and the answer is absolutely nothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim84 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 well my hyper 7sold on friday, a slighty used vorza appeard on ebay tonight and i brought best get myself some lipos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim84 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) all the bits are now orderd just need for them to all turn up and i can go playing question, guess this wil be in the manual but ill ask anyways, is the esc as standard set up to stop the car before the battery voltage gets to low or do you have to set it up? #have read an online manual and answered this but it say it only work with 2s and 3s lipos,ive ordered a 4s does this mean it wont work or does it not know the differnce between 2x2s and a single 4s# is the castle link kit worth getting so the setting can be played with? from an excite soon to be vorza owner Edited February 8, 2012 by Tim84 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim84 Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 i can now join the vorza club,had mine delivered today,got it off ebay,next to no sign of any use Just waiting for my lipo to turn up,so hopfully next weekend i can get my first run, already got a set of narda block tyres for it. t bone bumpers ordered last week from the us,set of shock socks next along with a 2.4Ghz radio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzMan Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) all the bits are now orderd just need for them to all turn up and i can go playing question, guess this wil be in the manual but ill ask anyways, is the esc as standard set up to stop the car before the battery voltage gets to low or do you have to set it up? #have read an online manual and answered this but it say it only work with 2s and 3s lipos,ive ordered a 4s does this mean it wont work or does it not know the differnce between 2x2s and a single 4s# is the castle link kit worth getting so the setting can be played with? from an excite soon to be vorza owner I think its more than they sell 2S and 3S batteries but not 4S and 6S. You plug them in series creating one larger pack. The car know no different. A 4S or 6S pack is just 4 or 6 cells in series where as 2S & 3S are 2 and 3 cells in series (more volts, same capacity - parallel is same volts more capacity). IIRC there's not masses to available to tweak with the castle link on these, and you should be able to make most tweaks directly via trasmitter stick positions. Worth it only if you have multiple caste products to tweak tune or update, saying that verses the cost of the car the castle link is not too much. Edited February 19, 2012 by JazzMan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim84 Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 finally managed to use it,have put 2 batties through it so far and they last about 15/20mins and that was mainly full throttle only broke the rear spoiler got an undershell cover from ebay and it keeps alot of the crud out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxic Basher Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Wooohooo my vorza's been tango'd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTSHOT III Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 (edited) Count me in to the Vorza Owners Club! Here are some pictures of mine, it's the same car but I had the bright idea of getting maximum value for money from the shells/paint by doing 2 at the same time and alternating the main colour/stripe colour (there seems to be quite a high bodyshell attrition rate at our track). This car also has: Hara D8 rear shocks Fioroni shock towers (these have 3 rows of mounting holes so you can run standard or long rear shocks without changing the tower) Hara D8 F/R alloy hub carriers 2650kv Flux Tork motor Hara D8 threaded outer hinge pins (#68184) at all 4 corners CVDs at all 4 corners with rear wishbones modded to stop the driveshafts rubbing on the arms at max droop I got the car in October and like many others was unimpressed with the standard "vorza written all over it" paint job-I think the old 27mhz version looks a lot better in blue/red. However HPI have pulled off a masterstroke by making the decal sheet you get with the clear shell compatible with virtually any colour. I've raced/bashed this car virtually every weekend since then and must say i'm impressed with its durability. In this time i've broken: 1 standard hinge pin 1 bent front driveshaft (straightened) 1 front hub carrier 1 steering servo (repaired under warranty) 1 standard front shock tower The Fioroni towers are cheaper than standard towers if you get them directly from the manufacturer: http://www.modellism...sp?art=OT-UR501 http://www.modellism...sp?art=OT-UR502 Edited March 1, 2012 by HOTSHOT III Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTSHOT III Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Here are some more shots of the rear shock tower: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTSHOT III Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Of course the one bad point of having alloy hub carriers is it's no longer easy to service the wheel bearings, which it was after I did this modification to the original plastic ones (see pic). I got this idea from the Mugen MBX6 which appears to have M3 grub screws on each hub for this purpose. To do this properly you need to: Remove bearings from hub(s) Carefully drill the holes exactly in the middle of the space between the 2 bearings (don't forget to drill them to 2.5mm for a 3mm grub screw) Take the inner shields off the bearings to allow the spray grease to force its way past the actual ball bearings under pressure, cleaning and re-lubing them in situ (leave the outer shields on, they only contact the inner races very lightly so the spray will force its way past these anyway and they'll still be there to protect the bearings) Note also on the rear hubs the bearings are so close together it is necessary to drill a staggered diameter hole, i.e drill a 1mm hole first, then drill it to 2.5mm diameter to a depth of about 3mm, just enough to take an M3 x 3 grub screw without affecting the area the bearings fit inside the hub. This sounds like a lot of aggro but it's actually quite easy to do if you've got the car apart anyway and once it's done, even if you race/bash in sand and mud, you won't have to replace your wheel bearings for a very, very long time. After every day's racing just pop the grub screw out, give them a quick squirt of jollop and it's done, yet another morning's work that now only takes 5 minutes! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxic Basher Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 More pics of the tango'd Vorza I'll be putting lots of pics in my gallery soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTSHOT III Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Tangotastic mate, and is that a #66211 Lightning series front hinge pin holder I can see peeking out behind the front bumper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxic Basher Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Ha ha very keen eyed, it is indeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattmussett Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I can now be added to the club as my shiny new Vorza arrived on Friday! Just need the weather to improve so I can go a use it - hey ho, at least it gives the postman time to deliver my T Bone bumper and skid plate before I wreck it!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tingting44 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 will be getting a vorza in couple months, i hear bad stuff about the shock towers tho (suppose to be as strong as cheese) what are the strongest hopped up towers that people have found from there own experiance? id just like a bit of review from actual owners of a vorza my 2 main concerns about the vorza are the weak shock towers and the driveshafts, how are people getting on with the stock driveshafts btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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