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Review: Proline Pro2 MT


-BEZ-

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Pro2 MT - Build Review (link to kit)

 

Since the Pro2 chassis was realised its always caught my eye and when they realised the MT it popped onto the  "must build list". The one thing that stood out was the fact that pretty much every hop up you would want to buy for a 10th scale MT is included in the kit as standard

 

The Pro2 is built around the design of the Traxxas 2wd platform, infact there are many parts that will swap over between the 2 brands (not surprising as Proline specialise in after market parts).

 

So with this I will be doing a full review of this awesome little 2wd Monster Truck from unboxing to building to it maiden voyage.

 

So lets get started ....

 

Whats in the Box?

 

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After some more digging you finally get to the juicy bit the chassis:

 

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(just remember the chassis is cable tied to the box, so carefully cut the ties and remove the chassis)

 

Once you have got to this point its pretty difficult to keep back the urge to get started on the build. Proline have done a really nice job in keeping this build a user friendly as possible they have taken time to write very easy to follow instructions and the parts are all separated in their own bags for each section of the build. Now  you have dug everything out you will have a stash that looks something like this:

 

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OCD friendly parts bags (makes for a very happy Bez)

 

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While everything was loose I took the opportunity to take some closer pics of the chassis so you can see for yourselves the attention to detail that has gone into the design.

 

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So onto the next step, The build :)

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The Build:

 

Like all things the key to a smooth build is preparation, gather the right tools and once you have done that have a read through the manual so you know roughly what is ahead of you. Proline have put together an outstanding package in how they present the kit for the builder, it really is as straight forward as a Lego kit.

 

Tools I used for the build:

 

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Rather than myself waffle on about each step I will summarise the process with a selection of pictures, If there is something worth mentioning I will make a comment by that particular image :)

 

And so it begins:

 

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At this step I found that the support for the body posts was very tight and was causing the part to deform when fitted so I very carefully trimmed a small bit of material from the part to enable a better fit, see below:

 

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One thing to mention here is I found the shims supplied still left too much slop for my liking, so I added an additional 0.3mm shim and then it was perfect.  Aside from that the parts went together really well and its rather nice not having to deal with tophats on the C hubs.

 

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Now the front bulkhead can be mounted up to the chassis.

 

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So with that done, the rear end gets some attention now:

 

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The body posts for the Rear are stupidly long, so much so that they foul the rear arms on full compression.  I trimmed them down to the same length as the front ones (I did this at the end of the build)

 

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The rear axles and hubs go together a treat, remember a small dollop of thread lock on metal to metal fixings. Like the front axles I found that the rears also required a bit of shimming, I added 2 0.3mm shims to each side for a better fit.

 

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Shocks, these shocks ooze quality and are a really nice addition to the kit ........ they are very simple as they are already pre assembled, I filled them up with the supplied 45wt oil and let them made sure the bubbles had escaped them refitted the caps and mounted them up to the chassis ...... its as simple as that.

 

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With the mounting up of the wheels the chassis is pretty much done, All there is to do now is fit the electronics and finally the servo arm and she is ready to roll. Oh and not forgetting the body.

 

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Summary:

 

All in all the chassis build went really smoothly. Observation wise I'm not sure why they decided to use 2.5mm pivot pins in a couple of places when 3mm would have been fine but I'm sure there is some form of logic to it. The only annoyance for me was the shims. I needed 6 in total for the front and rear axles to stop them slopping about on the hubs this wasn't making them too tight either. But in prolines defence every kit i have ever built has required additional shims.

 

So onto the next stage, Electronics and wiring

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Electronics and Wiring

 

This build was to be all about being crazy so right off the bat its going 3cell which should make this pretty mental. To counter act the higher voltage I have selected a lower KV motor than would normally be selected for 2s applications. 

 

ESC: Hobbywing SC8 120A Waterproof

Motor: Ezrun 3656 4 pole  3400KV

Lipo: SMC 7200 60C 3s

Servo: Savox SW1210SG Waterproof 

 

Gearing: Stock spur, 18t Pinion (Both 48DP)

 

Important points to take note of: Neither a pinion or servo arm is included in the package so to avoid disappointment make sure you have those ready before you start the build. Also if you want your receiver to be in a protective box you will need to order one. I personally opted for a Traxxas box but there is plenty of space to fit other options.

 

 

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Modifications and Tweeks

 

Now with the 3 cell lipo being a bit taller than a 2 cell option a tiny bit of trimming was required, none of which was in any critical areas. Basically I removed the ESC plate, popped some ally spacers I had knocking about in, trimmed the tab off the back of the plate and re secured the plate back in place. Its been raised about 10mm over stock. ESC still sits well under the height of the towers

 

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Receiver box

 

I used a Traxxas 3628, or you could use the 5624 box.

 

Again it is a nice simple mod to fit this to the chassis. All you need to do is mount one of the mounting points up get it central and either gestimate or measure (49mm) from center to center of the bolt holes and make a small hole in the bottom of the receiver box and then use a stock bolt to secure the box down to the top of the servo mount. This is all a lot more easier with the parts removed from the chassis. Then hey presto a nice secure box, you even have a left over mounting hole which makes a good make shift antenna tube holder (on the 3628).

 

As pictures say a thousand words, here are some of the mounting of the box:

 

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Wire Routing

 

Rather than add bullets to from the ESC to the motor I hard wired it and ran the wires over the top of the tower. This way the combo can be removed without having to unsolder anything.

 

For the ESC to Rx cable I slipped it in come black overbraid to help keep it protected and ran it along side the lipo to the receiver box at the front.

 

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Body prep and painting

 

One thing that really stands out about the body is how thick it is compared to other kits, its a lot thicker than your average 8th scale body which is nice as it means they have taken the basher into consideration when designing it.

 

Its one of a handful of body's where the dimples on the shell actually line up with the body posts which I must admit is rather refreshing.

 

My routine for painting:

  • I use the score and snap method for trimming bodys and only use lexan scissors as a last resort or to remove sections as i work around the body. I always use a fresh blade in my scalpel when trimming a shell that way you get a nice clean and consistent cut. Once you have scored the cut off line its a simple case of bending the scored line open and the lexan will "snap" and leave a nice clean cut line. There are some good tutorials on yourtube if you haven't tried this approach yourself before.
  • Once the body shell is trimmed I wash the body with fairy liquid and dry before any painting as it clears off any left over residue from the forming precess that could react with your paint if you are really unlucky. 
  • Mask up the areas you want to paint. Remember when masking to follow dark to light ........ otherwise colours will blend together or the end result may differ from what you wanted to achieve.
  • Painting - Its important to use lots of thin layers and build up the colour depth you want that way. Wait for the layer to dry and then paint another thin layer. This is time consuming but well worth it when it come to the end result.  You can speed up the drying process between layers by using a hair dryer on a very cold setting ........ just warm air. If you have it 2 hot you will crack the paint and even worse the body will deform with the heat so you need to be super careful.
  • When removing paint masks don't rush if the paint is still soft its easy to tare it off the body and it will look a mess be patient and allow plenty of drying/curing time before removing masks. If you are having troubles you can always very carefully and gently run a scalpel blade around the mask to help brake the paint seal. 
  • After you have painted the body shell its time to remove the over spray film on the outside of the body to unveil a glossy beauty. Defiantly one of the most rewarding parts of painting a shell. 

 

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Summary and Running

 

Had the Pro2 MT out for its maiden run today on 3s .......... no holding back and all that  ;)

 

When I was building the kit I was pondering to myself is this really worth

Edited by -BEZ-
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You must have not got the revised version of the motor, the new ones have screw down solder posts, I could run my wire through the shock tower and still be able to disconnect them as and when needed

Also the Slash 2wd RX box seems to fit a bit better than the you used, all the fixings are hidden inside the box and there is handy aerial tube mount built in as well

Nice build tho, but nothing I ain't seen before :lol:

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Luck of the draw with what you get with RC echo motor wise, Its not like its an issue to be fair. Yeah one of my issues is the fact that the tyres are factory glued. Nothing wrong with the rx box it fits fine and dandy :)

 

In an ideal world I would have had this mid Jan but it came from the states so just got held up ....... you beat me to the punch on the build this time Mr.Roberts lol 

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Ohh well, at least yours run, mines a bit damaged and awaiting parts :xd:

 

That will be those pesky BBQ's jumping out of no where haha

 

Its been a nice rig to work on everything feels like its quality. Vid will be up on Tuesday of the 3s abuse lol ...... maybe a order for a pair of trenchers and wheels to be taped up :)

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Ohh and it wasn't a BBQ this time, she just bounced off that, think it was the -3 temperature and too many cartwheels haha

 

Damn that sucks, I remember the good old days of NHB Bashes in the freezing cold murdering cars lol

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Cheers Bez, saves me reviewing it now ;)

My thoughts are similar to yours, minor parts fettling and still slop to sort out but overall a nice kit.

BUT, personally, had I forked out UK price, I would have been disappointed with the lack of build, as in, preassembled chassis and 'box. I found the truck a little harder to put together because of pre-fitted parts being slightly in the way... However, as it cost far, far less, I'm chuffed :)

Not sure about my combo, test run this avo. If the ESC proves to be pants, I'll chuck an sc8 in instead.

Using an old shell for now...was going blue on the new one, however, you beat me to it!! ;)

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I think the only thing that has really annoyed me is the factory glued wheels and tyres. I'm disappointed with the fact that the gearbox and shocks were pre assembled as i really like doing the fiddly stuff but Im guessing they are shooting at a younger audience.

 

Glad I beat someone to something even if it was only a colour lol

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Lovely drive, one pack street test (was waylaid by neighbours son having newbie drifter issues), ESC is pants (randomly chooses if to reverse or not), needs more powah.

Wheelies well, skates on roof well too, glad I stuck on an old shell, lol!

Piccies later, aiming for vids tomorrow and going to try 3s...

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  • 1 month later...

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