mch87

Where did you use for the screws if you don't mind me asking? I got some off ebay from china, were cheap enough and will do for improving my spares selection but wouldn't mind finding a source for decent quality as I'm not sure how the ebay ones will last

I'm now glad I have a bit of OCD.... I'm also new to the lipo world and the first time I charged mine I must of read the instructions for the charger at least 4 times, the spec of the battery several times and as Garry said above I set the perimeters for the specific battery on the charger (triple checked that) I also got the optional temperature probe for the charger I bought, so if it gets hot it cuts off the supply (set that lower than it actually says just to be extra safe) I've not charged mine many times so far but I've done it on a metal steps just outside the garage door

Thanks, I can see the FLM mount is on their website at $38 but it's out of stock and there is no mention of shipping costs from the US either... and IRC don't list any motor mounts on their website... It looks likely that I would need to buy something intended for a different RC and adapt it

something like this I was thinking https://www.amazon.co.uk/Casematix-Compatible-Universal-Controller-Accessories/dp/B089Y5C8R5/ref=sr_1_147?crid=C6G8SDTBYJGC&dchild=1&keywords=pick+n+pluck+case&qid=1609802918&quartzVehicle=80-1047&replacementKeywords=n+pluck+case&sprefix=pick+n+plu%2Ccomputers%2C169&sr=8-147

if it were me I'd look for an appropriate sized camera bag or a soft shell gadget case... Less bulk than a hard case. If you look on amazon or even ebay there are plenty of options, just make sure you measure before hand to make sure it fits...

I'm considering converting one of my 2 savages to electric from the original nitro.... I just think I'd get a bit more use out of them by having the choice of electric or nitro for both ease of "get up and go" and also if I went somewhere the nitro might bother people... I don't want to go crazy just something comparable to the speed of the original nitro as it'd be for bashing getting dirty and just mucking about I've had a look around and seen quite a few topic on various forums about conversions but unfortunately lots of the "off the shelf" parts to convert more easily are no longer available so I'm looking for inspiration on how to proceed... I would like to have the flexibility of some motor choices rather than a static clamp mount that holds me to a "one size" Currently the 2 trucks are spec'd as below (I've probably missed bits) Savage 25 Standard s25 engine with engine saver filter (needs new foams) and HPI ribbed pipe standard transmitter and receiver with added fail safe ofna throttle link mod Standard chassis (although I do have the hot bodies extended chassis plates but one of the extended dog bones is bent) optional reverse gear (with additional servo) dual disc brake (CNR) both diffs have the spider gear mod savage SS adjustable links alloy clamp on wheel hex's upgraded steering servo (hitec) and servo saver wheelie bar (integy) Savage SS Team Samurai 528 engine with HPI chrome tuned pipe and engine saver filter (needs new foams) not sure on radio gear without checking or servos but has servo saver and a clear radio box lid ofna throttle link mod Innovative RC LCG side plates Innovative RC engine plate Innovative RC centre skid plate HPI alloy diff cups with spider gear mod stiffer shock springs (don't recall brand) HPI dual disc set up (awful needs swapping for something else) anodised fuel cap and tank guard uprated stainless steel dog bone drive shafts hot bodies wheels with dog bone grass tyres I have most of the original bits and some spares... I've had them for years and just haven't been using them like I once did, and after buying myself a TRX4 recently I want to get back into the hobby (to get me out doing something positive/fun) Thanks for any help in advance

I wasn't trying to argue I was simply trying to get further info... Different wheel size vs hex size isn't always the case... The OP hasn't mentioned what rc he/she is using... My monster truck the wheels are nearly identical size once fitted but as mentioned one set is 14mm and the other 17mm... I cannot be alone in this... when I did swap and change, the hex's would occasionally stay inside the wheel when changing and the pin would drop on the floor... this is was I thought might be happening to the OP

Well how would you loose a nyloc? if it was the correct size for the thread it wouldn't just fall off unless worn out... Hence my question... and you would need to change them for the comment I put... if the internal of the wheel was a different hex size... Like I have hex's for one of my R/C's that the original are 14mm but I have wheels that are 17mm and hex's to suit... if it is that the OP is loosing the hex nut holding the actually wheel on surely it would be the case of ensuring they are using nyloc if they aren't already... and ensure if the nuts are old replace with new to ensure the "nyloc" part is working as intended... I've never once lost a nyloc nut unless i forgot to actually do it up... some r/c's even run left hand and right hand thread to make extra sure...

I'm guessing you mean the inner hex that the wheel sits onto rather than the nyloc hex nut holding it on... Have you tried the clamp on type of wheel hex's with the grub screw that holds them in place? then if all your wheels share the same hex size once they are on there's no need to remove other than maintenance Like these: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=407135&gclid=CjwKCAiArIH_BRB2EiwALfbH1Kw6fuI4PTm9doaPf7J-Z-jXSxqu3ogxJ42Rr-C8-NBQIzESZtS7wBoCOksQAvD_BwE

Still wouldn't mind picking something up... If a defender body would fit and not look too stupid (obviously without the shell mounted fenders) I'd go for one of those too

Been after a caliper for a while now but been hesitating to actually choose one... Sooo many of the "budget" or "cheap" ones get hit and miss reviews but I cannot justify the big money for branded ones when it's for hobby use (not just R/C stuff)

Roughly whats the internal diameter and how far in from the back edge is where the hex sits? My trx4 wheels are roughly 45mm internal diameter and 7mm ish from the edge that the hex would then drop into

Are the white beadlocks likely to fit a trx4? I've heard the internal diameter of the wheel is an issue... I know TRX4 is a 4mm shaft but enlarging to a 6mm so likely needs a 6mm hole, 12mm hex and be able to clear portals...

I'd like one of the huge tanks from www.armortek.co.uk but with all the extras... But if money really was no object... I'd also like to mess about with doing 1:1 as in convert an actual road going vehicle...

308mm width which again might be a tad narrow... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARRMA-Infraction-6S-BLX-Clear-Bodyshell-inc-Decals-Z-ARA410001/203157020485?hash=item2f4d1a1f45:g:~FMAAOSwxrJeVq7R

Black Friday is shocking this year... not a single offer I've seen has made me thing "ooh that's a good price" and I only bought 2 things last year... You'd think they'd want the extra sales this year

I actually swapped the disc set up across (the crazy nut racing one) and it works brilliantly on both... the HPI dual disk set up with the paper thin stainless discs and red pads on metal backing works well for a couple outings then is just utter garbage... I only have the old savage 25/ss single fibre disc set-up other than that... So I don't think its servo related...

I've been stripping and rebuilding my 2 HPI Savage's and it's one thing that has bothered me for ages... One has a "crazy nut racing" dual disc set up which is great and works fantastically... the other has a HPI dual disc brake and I've also tried the standard fibre one I had kicking about but quite frankly both are crap... Does anyone have a decent brake set-up laying around that they would part with? as all the decent stuff seems to need shipping from overseas at great expense... Thanks

Hey, Car looks like a nice model, certainly a very nice starter model! I'm also new to electric RC, lipos etc (had several nitro in the past) and after a bit of research I got this charger; https://www.modelsport.co.uk/skyrc-s65-ac-charger-65w/rc-car-products/438918 I also went for the optional temp probe for a bit extra piece of mind... https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=438830 The instructions made it seem a bit harder than it was to use, I have set up 2 battery memories so far for the 2 lipo's that I've got and once you save it you can just select the memory you want and press and hold the enter button to start charging... Storage charging is easy too, you just scroll to storage charge, select 2s or 3s then press enter and off it goes... I charged mine on an old stepladder outside the garage door and stayed within earshot to hear the completion beeps and just popped my head round every now and then... all's well so far but I do intend to modify an old military ammunition box into a charging box with connections so that I can have the battery inside and the charger outside the box so that it would save the charger if there was in incident

a selection of M3 screws to top up my spares... Just need to get the M4's now...

always wondered if a drop in anchor would work in this situation... The type you use in concrete.... My idea would be drop one the right size in, use a threaded bar with 2 nuts locked so that you have enough thread left on the end to get a slide hammer on and just slide hammer it out... I guess you could end up doing the same as what you've done by pulling the innards out though...

looks awesome, can't wait to see it finished.

Just a tad... we have eff all down here now... just use the countryside we're lucky to have...

Nothing as they lost it 😫 was supposed to be a ally guard set for my TRX4 Unfortunately the "UK Only" on ebay didn't filter out the Chinese sellers putting a UK base when they're not in the UK... the 1-3 Business Days is now over 3 weeks and the tracking went dead in one of Royal Mails main depots.

Thank you for the reply, very helpful... I had considered buying a "lazy susan" bearing and creating my own stand out of wood or a thick plastic... Good to know about the mat with the flaps, it was just one of the more multifunctional types of work mats, I have looked at the park tool cycling one but that'd be more for working on a part of the car rather than the whole car as its quite small... other than that its the traxxas pit mat that looks quite good as it has sectioned off bits to stop screws rolling away https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-rubber-pit-mat-92x51cm-/rc-car-products/1330570