Paul Busby

It's the Copperhead that's stock right? Obvious alternative is the Backflip, or the Backflip LP if you want to go for something a touch smaller. I REALLY like the LP

Which fan mount was that?

I'm sticking with the word, "discernable". 😝 Reality is at RC voltages you would need pretty precise instruments to see any difference in the pulses, so you're right, but I'm like bottle of dettol, I like to think of that 0.01%.

I've had extension wires on mine from he moment I switched out my BLX system. Has no discernable impact that I have noticed, although I have no real way of checking if it has.

I've seen a few folk switch out the bulkheads, I havent seen many keep them on though. FOr sure there is a widespread issue with the manufacturing, but It's such an expensive and complex part to machine, I don't think many folk can justify the cost vs a £12 Arrma replacement.

I actually think this is the best looking one with the least stupid name. I suppose this is kinda like the "Notorious" was to the "Outcast", in that it's just like a "Jambo" (🤦‍♂️) with a different shell? No chance I will buy one with the ET48 2.0 round the corner, but as long as they havent done anything absolutely ridiculous with the design, and availability is good, it should be reletively popular.

"Last time out, I ran it on 6s, not even 8s" 😄 I think some people are getting somewhat carried away with what the EXB is. It's a full option roller designed for bashing, it's not an indestrutable tank that should never break, no matter how hard you are on it, and it's still very much a 6S car, just because it has a few bits of aluminium on there doesn't mean it's suddenly a completely different car. I have made my positiion on those diff cases very clear though, so I'm not going to argue with him on that. Those "hard spots" when free spinnning are EXACTLY the kind of issue I had with the Arrma QC, and it's not a new problem.

Cool. @mydoddy69 brought this to my attention, so I'll work with him on it 🙂

Thanks mate, PLA is a super easy to print with plastic, but it's also very stiff and tends to just snap, rather than flex, but given the use case, perhaps this is preferable? I might talk to the guy at the weekend and see about getting the models so I can make them more widely available here in the UK ( I guess he isnt in the UK?)

Joining this convo because I: A. Want one B. Want to know about the printed parts. @.AJ. Do you know what plastic they’re made from... looks like ABS from the pics I have seen but could really be anything. Do the stock axels have much flex in them as standard? How much tolerance for moving parts is there?

I have the 120A in my ET410 with, IIRC, a ~5000kv motor, perhaps a bit less than that. I run that mostly off road so I wanted the extra current capacity. I think if you're on road you can probably get away with a 60A. A word of warning on the 120A at least, it came with a cap pack that I didnt account for when sizing it up, had to relocate my reciever, which was a ballache.

You can do that? Asking for a friend 😉

ET48 2.0 coming soon 😉

Yikes @Guns, looks like the whole bottom of the gearbox has just... disappeared? Honestly the Arrma gearboxes have been one of my biggest gripes with this car. They didnt change it at all for the EXB, it's the same part, and although I don't shred them like a lot of people, I have had one that from the moment I tried to fit it to the vehicle, to the moment I replaced it (3 failed bashes due to tolerance issues, I think) it was causing me nothing but issues. I really think they have, at least during the V4-EXB era, just been trash... maybe it's better now, but the one I replaced the problematic one was clearly old stock due to the label at the top of the bag being old skool, fit WAYYYYY better and has been rock solid through dozens of sessions. The other ones I've used with my 6s cars have been a pain in the arse to fit, all the holes just slightly out and needed filing/stretching to get in. I don't blame you for wanting to chuck it mate. This hobby is suppsed to be fun, and your experience has clearly been anything but.

I swear, you've changed.

Could make some covers for shock caps, but that would definitely require my printer, far too complex to CNC/Fabricate by hand.

Urgh.... I'll think about if I can really stomach all the effort that will go into that 😄 I can make wing delete ones reletiely easily. Surprised there isnt more of those on the market.

So with POS and other companies not shipping to the UK, and my 3D printer breaking, likely be out of action for a fortnight thanks to Chinese New Year... I just ordered a few hundred quickds worth of very high end nylon... and I'm getting back into the bumper game. Will be needing some testers 👍

Get RW Racing, Stock Arrma, or Tekno Pinions, don't waste money on any cheapos. I've been there, done that, had the 5 minute session followed by a stripped pinion.

WOuld you be interested in doing it as a roller, so stripping out the electrics?

Suppose if it doesn't turn out well you can always do a Top Gear and smash through it in spectacular fashion.

I superglued one of the sides together so it doesn't come loose while out and about... so annoying if you accidental slip the velcro out the slot

Na, I mean he just buys stock and resells it, so he has to deal with customs. I think he has a tonne of stuck in the COVID/Brexit backlog right now. You don't need anything fancy, just something that will heat up the loctite enough to soften it. Even a solding works with a bit of patience. You just heat it up till you see smoke, then it should loosen up nice and easy. Something like this would probably do the job: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Angled-Turbo-Flame-Windproof-Lighter/dp/B00BXJPK9I/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=1&keywords=mini+blow+torch+lighter&qid=1613306782&sr=8-22

Yeah you heard correct. A mini blow torch is well worth it for servicing Arrma's, certainly the first time.