Badcrumble

No guarantee they would fit but something like this following the suggestion by @PraetoR Short firm springs

How easy would it be to fit a second set of dampers? Can you see what others have done in the video you posted? I would think springs would be the first option before more cost and extra work. Would these fit or be able to be cut down? AX10 hard springs

I've had issues with cheap clamp hexes in the past - poor quality screws / threads. For £8 on eBay you can usually find Yeah Racing 6mm clamp hexes which are reasonable quality. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274723434131 Hope you have better luck than I did!

I really like the way this is heading, have been following it since inception. You've also tempted me into ordering from AMain so I'm expecting customs roulette in the next couple of weeks! White body with red and blue accents?

The SBG build I linked used leafs. It made it easier because you could bolt the leafs to the underside of the body rather than a chassis. If you went down that route is could be a cheaper option - buy Injora (or similar) off the shelf parts and bolt to the bottom of the Tonka. You've need to find a way of attaching the motor on transmission - page 2 in the thread shows how the guy did it in that build. Similar layout here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3458621-Tonka-Winnebago-RC-Conversion However, neither build I have linked is a crawler...

I don't know if it will be of any use given you're looking for something more capable off-road but this build is referenced quite a lot in the SBG thread I linked.

Love it! I still have the black Tonka van from when I was a kid, it tows a single seater race car. I don't think I could cut it up but I do like these projects. There's another thread for inspiration here.. SBG Winnebago

Thanks @Stormbringer. It has taken a while @stimpy! How many wrong turns and bad decisions?! Definitely on track now!

Thanks @Redback, I could so easily have given up on this but I am so glad I persevered. It has given me the opportunity to try so much new stuff and there's a real sense of achievement that comes with it. Plenty more bodywork left to do and a move to LiPo is definitely on the cards.

It has been a busy day After breakfast and packing el kid off to school (escorted by Mrs BC), I commenced with making some inner rear panels for the JK. I transferred the templates to plasticard, then super glued them to the body. I then had to take a break to go and get my first COVID jab. Once back, I set about reinforcing the glued joints with Araldite. I mixed up some of the glue to reinforce the sills I put on recently. Mrs BC then took me out to lunch (coffee and a toastie outside during the one rain shower of the day!), then a quick trip to town to order a jacket (you didn't need to know that, did you?). Back at the ranch and I moved on to uncharted territory. Snap connectors! It took a couple of goes to get a strong connection but I'm quite pleased with the results. With connectors on the ESC and motor leads it was time to attach said leads to the motor. That meant trying out something new - soldering! It might not be pretty but the motor spins so I'm happy. Of course, fitting the motor it meant removing the steering servo of the tight-for-space-under-the-hood JK and refitting it. The holes on the servo mount aren't great and the beefy HH motor is probably pushing the servo out of true. Is that the reason why I stripped a hex head? D'oh! I also fitted the nice new 48DP pinion. I pressed in regardless, threw it all together and found my Tamiya-to-XT60 connector. And... It lives! It ran round the garden with its rear tyres rubbing - that NiMh battery has got to go. Plenty more to do to finish it off but I'm ridiculously pleased with myself, hence the rambling and self-indulgent post!

PM sent!

I was chatting to my neighbour who has just bought a 1:1 Disco for a little light off-roading (massive tyres, full width light bar, snorkel, sump guards, remote controlled winch, etc) and he was looking for land anchors on the internet but could only find 1:10 scale ones 😂

So rather than remove more plastic from the middle of the car, I decided to go backwards and re-profile the sills with styrene. They won't look as good as the originals but will give me more space under the seats, under the hood and in the rear load bay (where the battery sits). Reconstructive surgery begins.. I used 2mm styrene behind the existing body line for strength, the built the sill up to the body line with two 0.5mm and one more 2mm styrene strip. Some filling between the new sills and my Dremel cuts is required! As well as working on the sills, I finished off the load bay cover. The cover fits into the interior of the body with a cut-out at the rear which conveniently locates it. I then added two horizontal 1mm square sture rods to support the cover. I'm hoping that I can use magnets attached to the tops of the shock towers to hold it in place. It will be tricky to remove once the roll cage is in place as there is a horizontal bar just behind the seats but I think it will be OK as I'm planning on a lip to allow me to flip the cover up from between the seats and remove it. I have discovered that the doors don't want to stay closed with the body mounted on the chassis - my improvised mount behind the front bumper area is catching on the servo winch and pushing out the body slightly so it needs a bit of a trim. My new 48DP pinion should be waiting for me at the office which brings me to the next new aspect of this build - soldering! My new motor needs some nice long wires to reach the ESC located in that rear load bay and the battery an XT60 plug to get rid of that adapter and save some space.. Oh, I still need to panel the rear arches, finish the battery support, panel the footwells and then...apply some paint to cover up my handiwork.

Took the Dremel to the JK body today. I think I was a bit overzealous! I started by tidying up the rear bed area ready to box out the rear arches. That went well so I thought I would tidy up the sides under the doors by making them level. That's where it all went a bit wrong. I taped up the sides as per the GCM video like I did when I first trimmed it but afterwards, the body sat a few mm above the sliders. Oh no! I then went on to cut out the front footwells, that was more successful but once again, I got a bit carried away! I ran the new servo extension lead down the chassis rails to the rear area where I plugged it in to the new ESC. The battery sits in there too. I decided to use the central mount screws to hold the body and see how much I now needed to extend the sills by. That's when I realise that by trimming the sills I had lowered the body, bringing the transfer case into contact with it. So more trimming is now required I probably should have left it well alone!

That's great Nick. I don't know if the same discussion has been had on here but on another forum (there's another forum? No way!) there was a good discussion on how this hobby can have positive benefits on mental health.

Some progress on the JK. Got a new ESC with an XT60 plug, ready for future LiPo upgrade. Got a servo extension lead so I can have the ESC and battery in the rear compartment. Mocked up the planks for the rear deck, they need trimming and staining. Next up, tidy the rear of the body and extend the wheelarches with styrene (see previous template). While I have the Dremel out, I might look at removing the foot wells to create more space for driver / passenger and tidy up the side sills. They are smooth but angled due to my manual cuts (trying not the catch the handle of the saw on the wheelarch introduced a bit of a slant!). It crawls (no pun intended) towards the finish line.

You're not wrong! Alloy chassis, servo mounts, rear arm holders and brushed Outlaw not pictured! The ESC is the matching Max10 SCT thanks to @Redback for all the tips.

And so it begins... Just a mock up to see how the pinion fits and whether the FTX driveshaft connects to the clone gearbox outputs. Unlikely to move much further for the moment as other projects take precedence.

Welcome and glad you are enjoying your Outlaw. There is a wealth of information in this thread which has been running for a little while now. https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/220899-ftx-outlaw-owners/ If you are looking for a wider bumper in future then you can fit the one from the FTX Torro. Watch out for the rear trailing arm mounts, the servo saver losing parts after an impact and the motor giving out after a few hard sessions. The gears can also be an issue if it hasn't been put together very well but replacement spurs are available. I've not burnt mine out yet but I'm not far off given the stink following two back-to-back battery packs. Fastrax wheels are a common option. You'll find people converting these to affordable brushless set-ups or even going full-on crawler https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/243564-ftx-outlaw-crawler/ Enjoy!

Carrying on this afternoon, I added a ‘guide’ mount to the body to reduce body wobble at the front. This meant I had a spare crossmember so I switched the GCM front one to the rear. That mount has two vertical screwholes, presumably for clamping a bumper. I used them to affix a hastily pulled together battery tray. It was time to give it a run around the garden (without the body) but, as usual, the truck threw a curve ball. My new 1080 ESC has a Deans plug, the special cube-shaped NiMH pack a Tamiya plug so I got an adapter lead. Unfortunately, said lead has a pretty poor quality Deans connector which came apart when the ESC was plugged into it. So I switched to a 1060 with a Tamiya plug, got my new Turnigy RX bound and plugged in and... wahey, it’s alive! It was pretty jerky and quite noisy, not sure I have the pinion meshed properly. But it ran! Without the body though as the underside of the transmission tunnel needs removing to allow for cable management over the transfer case. So, electrics removed and... Looks familiar? Maybe but it is a lot further forward than this morning. Got a plan to remove the ability to see through the underside of the body at the rear arches. Needs a tidy but should translate to styrene quite well. EDIT: el kid was back from school for the test, run in the garden and most impressed with the working winch!

Right, after some deliberation (maybe not enough) I purchased some Axial SCX10ii damper mounts as they for the pre-drilled holes in the chassis. Step one - check they fit. I was thinking that fitting the Axial rear mounts would mean fitting 90mm dampers on the rear to match the front, however, that only works if the top mount height on the front matches the rear. I had been happy with the ride height / body level using the 85mm XD dampers on the front so would the top of the 90mm King dampers be level with the new rear damper mounts? And the answer is...no! Unexpectedly, they are just the right height to continue using the 75mm dampers! Right, best get everything bolted up. So that brings us to Axial SCX10ii rear mounts with 75mm King dampers 90mm King's dampers on the front with the new 3D printed inner fenders installed.

That's the one I have - if I could find it! Have misplaced all my Outlaw parts in the garage. Good luck with the plate, looking forward to seeing it fitted.

In case anyone ever needs this piece of random information, I am reliably informed it is 35mm.

Help required! Can anyone tell me the distance between the holes on the chassis to fit the rear damper mounts on an SCX10ii? I'm looking to see whether an aftermarket set would fit in my GCM Skeleton without drilling into the chassis. Something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/114253832531?chn=ps Many thanks in advance!

So, holes on the mounts were too tight. Stripped three screw heads. Triple layer mount fouled the damper body. Double layer doesn't flex so will go with that. More cutting required bit it got too cold to continue. Finished the session with a bigger pile of bits than I started. I think my truck hates me.