Ninetiesbeard

To set mesh, loosely fit the engine in the car with the slotted bolts from underneath and do them up loosely so that the engine still slides around. Next i find it helps to grab a bit of paper and shove it between the spur and clutch bell and push the engine toward the transmission in a parallel way; to get a uniform engagement. Then just do the bolts up, pull the paper out and check that the spur/clutch bell turn freely. The paper will make sure you get a little gap between the two to stop them binding/getting hot and melting anything. Then take the bolts out one at a time, threadlock them and put them back in at torque. Tyres are a fun thing, really thats down to personal preference more than anything, but they are separated into a few categories. Theres 2.2, 2.8, 3.8, 1/8th buggy and many more. You need a 3.8 wheelset, so that the inside of the wheels clears the hubs/knuckles and so that the outside diameter matches roughly what you had originally. Proline make brilliant wheels and tyres, i fully recommend them. These are nice; https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/pro-line-badlands-mx38-3.8in-all-terrain-tires-mounted-on-8x32-removable-hex-for-17mm-mt-2--442741 Those would add a bit of weight, some width and a ton of grip to the truck. But they wont “just” fit your car. First you need to convert it to 17mm hex. The hexes are the drive mechanism lurking behind the wheel that locates in the wheel and on a pin on the driveshaft. Ive only once seen an mta4 converted to 17mm hex, and it involves a bit of fabrication. BUT, i believe these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313840560751?epid=765440856&hash=item49125aea6f:g:pr4AAOSwCMRcZsyA Will solve that. I stress that i have never personally used those hexes on that truck, so i cant guarantee itll work; but see no reason why it wouldnt. Otherwise, youll be looking for 14mm hex wheels, which come in many sizes. And seem to be pretty difficult to find just from a quick look on ebay. No need to worry about that until the stock ones blow off the truck 🙂

Sounds like you are getting drive to all four wheels, so its not anything with the outer driveshafts or centre shafts. Sounds like a clutch issue as people have stated above. A good way to test if its the slipper would be to crank the night right down so that it has no chance of slipping, and then set it back to factory settings when youve confirmed that it is okay. I believe youve got to investigate the clutch next, which involves either taking the spur gear off, or removing the engine from the car. The MTA4 has a nut and bolt engine mount design, so you may find it easier to take the engine mount off using the bolts going through the slotted holes, but you will have to re set the mesh with the clutch bell and spur gear. Probably a clutch issue, clutches are super cheap to replace and fairly simple too. Looks like the original clutch shoes arent available anymore, these would do it, and also cover you in the case of a broken spring as mentioned above; https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/fastrax-heavy-duty-purple-aluminium-1-8th-clutch-shoe-and-springs-18138 The mta4 also uses slipper pegs as a friction material in the spur slipper system, these are available here; https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/traxxas-friction-pegs-slipper-12--15043 Dont mind the traxxas part number, the t maxx ones are identical to the mta4 ones. Id probably do the lot, new clutch and new slipper pegs, clean the slipper plates that live either side of the spur gear, and clean the inside of the clutch bell out too. You can rough up the inside of the bell for better engagement, with an abrasive. They form a glossy coating over time due to the heat. Hope this helps dude, Mta4's are super fun trucks 🙂

Also ordered from them multiple times with no issues

Hey dude, You still got those PRP seats?

DMS racing in watford, literally a ten minute walk from my house. Ive bought a few bits from there, its the old stock im eating up before anyone else does, lol.

For sure! You know how hard they are to find? 😅

I got a set of lunsford springs for my tmaxx, as well as two sets of lunsford hingepins, and a set of tsais revo CVDs, for another t maxx 🙂

Well done on that! great reproduction for sure. Ive got a d90 bod that i bought brand new with the intention of doing the same, but i went in a different direction, i suppose i should let that go as well

True, id love to see a series landy though

another land rover?

Yes, thats perfect just checked my 1.55 slot mags and we are good to go

Ill take the disks pls

Ill take them

If you want expensive and lasting get a hakko f888d, cheaper then grab an antex

Anyone know who makes these wheels and tyres?

Thanks man, im pretty proud of it 🙂

Recently rebuilt my d812 because it was in a shocking state. Just fitted the shocks with bodies that i got my friend to cerakote for me. Sorted out the whack suspension geometry after replacing all the ball ends and now its ready for war again 🙂

The biggest shocks you can fit on a savage. Requires mounting kits available from IRC Here with ball ends Here. Comes with a brand new set of shock socks too. Ive used these for around 10 packs and they are overkill for my driving style, not necessary at all. Pretty clean, well looked after. Selling as im putting my truck on a diet and these are one of the heaviest components! Looking for £90 posted, will be sent first class signed for. Cheers, NB.

Thanks man 🙂 Its getting rebuilt at the moment, going to paint up a new body and add a bunch of carbon fibre parts to front motor it. Should be done sometime early next year, it is financially crippling lol

Sold pending payment to fly in my soup, cheers

Where does it feel like it needs more weight? and why? if you want more grip on the front i suggest weighting the wheels, although this can make the back end skittish on decents. Otherwise, stick to adding unsprung mass, weight above the shocks can do odd things with the centre of gravity

Bump, £70 posted

If i remember rightly, generic spray paint works well as long as the metal is prepped with an etching primer, ive done a few bike frames like that with good results

Haha thanks man. True enough thats the part i think will fail too. The design of those specific hex adaptors means i dont get much actual hex depth, so it may even strip them at that point. Theres some support there, and it feels rigid in hand, but only time will tell

Thanks man 🙂 Well with pla, probably not very well. It will likely delaminate/split if hit too hard. Its a heavy truck too, so it will be interesting to see. I am doing one last rebuild, and will then test the truck on 4s to see what they can handle. I will report back with specific details after the fact, and will post them here