Fat Freddy

Thanks, I’ve been googling “lighting set with control box” type things and they seem to come with a main box (that plugs directly into the receiver) and wired up led’s with similar looking plugs, so I’m guessing you are right. I THINK my first idea seems logical. Maybe I should stop worrying, just take a chance and get out the snips and soldering iron?

Impatient bump...... Have been home from work a whole hour now and want to fit this light bar but don’t want to start snipping and soldering before I’m sure what I’m doing. Sometimes being ignorant is a pain in the Rs. Hopefully one of you clever people can enlighten me?

Hi folks, so I bought this HobbyTech light bar for a project I’m working on. Sort of expected to be able to plug it straight into an empty receiver slot with one of those flat plugs (no idea what the correct name is) that I have previously used with other LEDs. It arrived today with two plugs, neither suitable for plugging into my receiver. So, I’m assuming that one is to go to an on/off switch? And the other to a power supply? I’m hoping that if I snip off one plug and just solder the wires together, effectively bypassing the on off switch ( or even put in a manual on/off switch instead?)...... Then snip off the other plug and replace it with a receiver plug, it will work as per the other LEDs I’ve used? Does that sound right to you? Or is that too bloody simple?! Am I going to have to spend more money to buy some gubbins to make it work?

Check out the electric guide in the General Electric section on here. Explains everything you need to know in nice simple steps 😀👍 Also, for a lot of this stuff, YouTube is your friend. Good luck with it and have fun ✊

Nice 👍

Been a while since I used Ni-mh’s. Can’t honestly remember. If you think you are going to get into this hobby, switch to Lipo’s when you can afford to. It’s worth the extra £’s

Thanks @Bajadreand @James RC, Problem solved, appreciate it. Looks like a visit to my local diy superstore is in order. 👍

Thanks @James RC that’s probably exactly the right colour, Shame it’s such a massive can. I’ll check out rust-oleum and see if they do smaller can sizes. cheers 👍

Look for a hobbywing 1060. Relatively cheap and pretty reliable.

Calling all Dremel experts..... I have a few Dremel related questions but first, as Black Friday approaches, does anyone know of any good deals on Dremels? I thought I’d found one, a 4000 with 3 attachments and a gazillion tools for £119 but noticed at the last moment, “Estimated delivery 13th Jan 21”. Never mind, keep looking. Not sure I’m not getting carried away, that’s way over my original budget by about 50% 😂 So.... How much real difference is there between the 3000 and the 4000 and which would you recommend? Which attachments have you found most useful? Any other pointers to offer? Thanks 👍

Hi folks, Anyone know where I can find a cream or Ivory colour acrylic in a rattle can? I’m probably being a bit numb, but I can’t seem to find one.

@Iain .Rwhat he said 👆 Seems like an investment but worth it

Once you’ve got it muddy you’ll stop noticing the niggles. 👍

Plus one to all of that. I also learned the hard way that it’s a good idea to do a test on a bit of scrap. If it’s not quite right, you can try again with a different backing colour, black or silver. Hope you don’t mind me jumping on your thread @FB333but I have a colour conundrum too. I want a cream/off-white/magnolia sort of colour. I foolishly thought from looking at a colour chart that Tamiya champagne gold acrylic looked a sort of cream colour, but it turns out to be a bit, surprise surprise, gold. Hope to get an airbrush soon, but in the meantime I’m stuck with rattle cans. Any suggestions folks?

Good point re the compressor, my Christmas list just went from “and” to “or”, decisions decisions eh?

I have a 4000kv on 16 teeth and am thinking along similar lines. A little more torque would be good. Wishing I’d gone for something nearer 3500 but hey ho,budget won’t run to it and what The hell, I’m still grinning like an idiot after every bash. 🤪

Hi folks, A couple of questions I hope someone can help me with. 1) Anybody know which Dremel is best to go for? There seem to be a few versions, some corded and some Cordless, some with a plethora of attachments and some with a basic selection. Is Cordless worth paying the extra for? How many attachments do you really need? 2) Can anyone recommend a competent but reasonably priced airbrush set up? There seem to be some really cheap ones on fleabay but sometimes you get what you pay for. Thanks in advance for your help. 👍

Apparently soaking in bleach will remove the chrome altogether....... then you can repaint as you like.... but whatever you do, don’t just take my word for it. Lol

I have the Coyote kit. Never having had a crawler before, I have no point of reference to compare it with, so no idea if it actually is any good, but I don’t care, I love it. If you thinking of focussing on the scale aspect, you might be interested in getting one of these. I know the F150 is an iconic truck but it turns out that the Coyote isn’t just (as I thought) just a generic “pick up truck style body”. Forgive me if you already know this, but the Coyote is an absolute ringer for the Toyota Stout. Most stouts seem to have twin headlights and were exported to Australia, South Africa and America, but before Toyota were even Toyota, they were called Toyopet, and I’m pretty sure the Coyote is based on a single headlight, 1960, Japan only Toyopet Stout. The awesome Hilux can trace its roots back to the early stouts. They are popular with custom builders who mostly drop them low, but there are a few out there who take em off road. Check out racerx_233 on Instagram, he has a 1-1 that’s awesome 😎. I painted mine some pretty random colours but I’m planning a respray in colours more in keeping with an old 1960’s truck....... if I ever get round to it. Enjoy driving it so much I don’t want to have to lay it up while I paint the shell. Not sure this any use to you, think I just wanted to talk about my Stout (never liked the Coyote monicker)😂 To be honest as a trail truck it isn’t madly stable when cornering due to short wheelbase and locked diffs but I’m sure if you know what you are doing that would be sortable. There endeth my waffle 😂

That’s what I love about these cars. My last big crash cost £2.85 to fix. The postage cost more than the parts.

A WAY better solution than mine 👍

May I refer you back to my patented, sandwich box under tray (see page 235) 😂😂

Agree with all of this.... go hobby grade. Join us on the dark side @JD666 , you know you want to, or you wouldn’t have “bought it for my son” 😂 on a serious note, most RCs are rated as 14yrs plus, but it’s fairly easy to restrict the speed so he won’t trash it every time it’s used.

This started life as a Vantage, I put on carnage wheels, and a cheap trophy truck body from a Himoto something or other. Never really liked it, then one day, well, what can I say, I got carried away. Fits awful, but I quite like it. I am using it as a template for another half arsed, badly executed body shell project..... watch this space. Yes, I know. I should clean it before taking pics.

Never used shoe goo but do use reinforced tape. And I put some clear vinyl sticky back plastic on the outside of the shell where it gets the most abuse.